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need a headgasket set but my engine is not original...


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29 replies to this topic

#1 mightGETaSUBARU

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 06:52 PM

I have a 1998 Subaru legacy outback, I need a head gasket set but my engine was a random used engine...

 

so what do I do

 

I was able to pull this engine ID number off the back near the starter

 

889649

 

thank you for any help



#2 Speedwagon

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 08:03 PM

I have a 1998 Subaru legacy outback, I need a head gasket set but my engine was a random used engine...

 

so what do I do

 

I was able to pull this engine ID number off the back near the starter

 

889649

 

thank you for any help

 

It is unlikely it was just a random engine.  Whoever did the swap, would have picked a certain engine.  Either an EJ22, or EJ25.



#3 grossgary

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 08:06 PM

Post a picture of the engine.

 

It's probably the same headgasket that the original engine had:

11044AA610 - same headgasket for all 1996-1998 EJ25's and 1999 OBW's and 1999 Legacy's 2.5's.

 

That is true if either of the following are true:

1. If it has two bit round circles in the timing covers on each side (2 on drivers side and 2 on passsengers side)? 

2.  The spark plugs go through the valve cover gaskets



#4 ShawnW

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 08:09 PM

Post a photo of your engine compartment near one of the heads and I can tell you what it is.



#5 matt167

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 09:10 PM

This is why I have a decal drawn up for my car that will go under the hood showing it as having a replacement engine and having the donor engines engine type and donor car's Vin number listed


Edited by matt167, 08 May 2013 - 09:11 PM.


#6 MilesFox

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 09:32 PM

Look under the car and determine if it has a single port or dual port header as this will give a clue to what heads/intake are installed. The gaskets are relative to the head regardless of the block.

 

If you know for certain the engine was swapped in whole, there is a stamping on the block under the alternator on the front of the top of the block with EJ22 or EJ25

 

dual port headers will be an ej22e or an ej25d. single ports would be an ej221. these 3 engines would be compatible with the wiring harness in the car. 



#7 mightGETaSUBARU

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 10:57 PM

According to the service records the engine was replaced when the oil change place forgot to put oil in the engine...  from what the service records say it was done around 120k miles and the used engine had less than 50k miles, there is no mention of any exhaust or ecu changes

 

that being said I was rolling down the highway today, noticed my A/C was not working, looked at the temp gauge and it was pegged...  pulled over let it cool down a little bit, then started the engine with the radiator cap off, a small reve would cause exhaust gas to shoot out of the radiator...  lol

 

 

 

 



#8 WoodsWagon

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 11:07 PM

That looks like the same 97-99 DOHC EJ25 that would have come in the car originally.

 

The only possible difference could be the timing belt tensioner setup, but everything else should be the same.



#9 Fairtax4me

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 11:27 PM

Second what Woods said. Same engine that originally came in the car.
Actually if you look at the top of the block just below behind the alternator there is a rectangular casting that should say "EJ25".
The fact its DOHC means its an EJ25D series engine. Just get a gasket kit for your car and it will work.

#10 mightGETaSUBARU

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 11:33 PM

Perfect, thank you guys...  now where should I order the kit from, and which kit do you think works best



#11 grossgary

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 11:44 PM

Post a picture of the engine.

t

good job!

As I suspected:

 

It's probably the same headgasket that the original engine had:

11044AA610

 

Same motor, same headgasket. That's the Subaru part number you want above. 

Always have the heads resurfaced on these.

 

There are two different valve cover/spark plug gaskets for that engine, so you'll want to verify those if they're getting replaced.



#12 Fairtax4me

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 11:46 PM

Best would be from a dealer. You can save some $$ by ordering from one of the online dealers, or your local dealer may match online pricing if you ask.
Next heat is probably a set of Cometic gaskets.
Either way you will need to buy intake and exhaust manifold gaskets separate from the head gaskets. Same goes for valve cover gaskets.

Parts store kits that have full gasket sets are useful but the quality of the head gaskets in those kits is usually sub-par.

#13 grossgary

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 11:52 PM

Perfect, thank you guys...  now where should I order the kit from, and which kit do you think works best

as i just mentioned there are two style valve cover gaskets for that motor.

there are also two different timing belt tensioners as well.

you'll need to let us know what all you want to replace.

 

you never replace head bolts on these, reuse them.

 

Subaru only on these parts:  headgaskets, intake manifold, and water pump gaskets.  Subaru exhaust manifold gaskets are far better too but they are really easy to replace and often reusable so you're call.

Tstat should be Subaru or XACTA aftermarket.

 

bare minimum:  2 headgaskets, 2 intake manifold gaskets, and 2 coolant crossover orings.

 

complete job, in addition to the above:

valve cover gasket set (2 valve cover gaskets, 4 spark plug gaskets, grommets for all bolts)

4 cam seals

1 crank seal

oil pump oring

thermostat

1 thermostat gasket

 

water pumps rarely fail, but you can replace that. make sure you get a Subaru water pump gaskets, they are stamped metal and far superior quality to the paper stuff elsewhere.

 

ebay kits also have timing belts with all new pulleys and tensioners...and some come with seals as well for cam, crank, water pump, wp gasket....again, depends what you're looking for.



#14 mightGETaSUBARU

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Posted 09 May 2013 - 11:02 AM

Help me nail it all down, what should I buy?  keep in mind I am freakin' broke

 

ok well I think this is what I need then

 

http://www.ebay.com/...a0ffb80&vxp=mtr

 

or maybe this one?

 

http://www.ebay.com/...3c0e161&vxp=mtr

 

 

good deal with headbolts included

 

http://www.ebay.com/...146c4ad&vxp=mtr

 

 

The timing belt was replaced recently, do I need a new one?

 

http://www.ebay.com/...b2a63b4&vxp=mtr

 

 

thermostat?

 

http://www.ebay.com/...c5340a6&vxp=mtr

 

water pump?

 

http://www.ebay.com/...69b7971&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.ebay.com/...b038fb3&vxp=mtr

 

 



#15 grossgary

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Posted 09 May 2013 - 11:48 AM

You're ignoring our suggestions:  Do *** NOT *** get aftermarket headgaskets for this engine. For some Subaru engines it's okay and even a good idea.  It is a very bad idea for this particular motor.

Better off selling the car as-is for $1,500 and buying some other cheap Subaru off craigslist for $1,500 + the cost of the headgasket repair - you'll get far more miles out of it than those aftermarket headgaskets.

This engine is extremely problematic, you want to listen to folks that know this exact engine.  You want quality, not quantity...all those shiny, new parts are pointless and should offer no sense of protection.

 

*** If cost is a concern then simply do this:
Buy Subaru OEM headgaskets, intake manifold gaskets, and coolant crossover pipe orings  - I posted the part number above for the headgaskets.

You can buy them online for about %20 less than local dealer prices at a variety of online Subaru dealers.

 

As cost allows replace these:

1.  timing belt

2.  pulleys

3.  timing tensioner (like $100



#16 grossgary

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Posted 09 May 2013 - 11:51 AM

again, you're not listening.  Subaru's do NOT require new headbolts, complete waste.

 

if the timing belt was already replaced then don't replace it if you can't afford it....replace the timing pulleys if you can.

the timing pulleys are identical to other Subaru EJ18 and EJ22 engines which have timing kits for much cheaper if you do'nt need the belt.  (keep in mind there are two style tensioners)

 

if you're cutting corners, i'd leave the water pump, very rarely do those have issues on these motors.  better to leave that water pump that won't likely fail than try to replace it and buy cheap headgaskets that will.



#17 mightGETaSUBARU

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Posted 09 May 2013 - 12:31 PM

ok it looks like from reading over the service records we now know what happened...

 

The previous owner was having some over heating issues 

 

on 09/13/2012 the following parts where replaced

 

Timing belt

 

water pump

 

crank seal

 

cam seal

 

valve cover gaskets (which still seem to be leaking)

 

thermostat and seal  (both genuine subaru)

 

2 drive belts???  (k040353/k050345)



#18 grossgary

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Posted 09 May 2013 - 02:26 PM

excellent, then like i said just get the headgaskets, intake manifold gaskets, and coolant crossover pipe orings.

 

you can get a fel pro valve cover gasket set - there are two varieties, have to look to see what yours is.

 

I would get an EJ18/EJ22 timing belt kit and replace all the timing pulleys. those kits are cheap so you can replace all 4 pulleys for only $90 or so and throw the belt away.  pulleys are the same, belt is not. i'd put a link to which kit but i don't know what style tensioner you have, they vary and there's no clear way to know without looking since around 1997 was a changeover year and can have both.



#19 mightGETaSUBARU

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Posted 09 May 2013 - 03:52 PM

I will check the service records and see when the pulley last got done



#20 mightGETaSUBARU

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 06:16 PM

2.5 hours into this thing.  nearly done with the other side too..

 

 

the head gasket looked perfect on this side...  the other side should be interesting



#21 86BRATMAN

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 08:24 PM

you're in luck, you have the old style tensioner

#22 matt167

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 08:46 PM

I think the passanger side head bolts won't clear the frame, so you will need to jack up the engine after removing the motor mount nuts.



#23 grossgary

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 10:13 PM

excellent job!  and good news (finally after all this HG nonsense!!!!!) old style tensioners are far more reliable.  i never replace them, the new styles fail often enough I replace them every time unless the car isn't worth it.

that probably means your engine is a 96 or 97 EJ25..i don't think that old style tensioner ever came on 98's and 99's.

 

here's a kit with a pulley for that style tensioner:

http://www.ebay.com/...f9e85aa&vxp=mtr

 

those are all the pulleys you'll need for the job.  you can't use the timing belt but you've already got a new belt anyway if you want to save a couple bucks.  that also includes all the cam seals (4) you'll need for the job as well as the crank seal for the oil pump.

 

or get one with the correct belt (but no seals) for a few bucks more:

http://www.ebay.com/...8e9c771&vxp=mtr

 

I prefer these two companies - pricier but the brown seals are a higher quality (like Subaru uses now) material and i like the GMB and other parts better than some of the other ebay companies. 

http://www.ebay.com/...013b586&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/...217fded&vxp=mtr

 

the importexperts you can call and add or subtract from the kit what you want and they'll adjust the kit accordingly.

 

you'll have better clearance for installing if you loosen the two 14mm engine mount nuts underneath and remove the one bolts from the pitch stopped up top right behind the throttle body, dead center of the engine bay.  then jack the engine up a few inches.  removing is one thing, but installing, keeping the surfaces perfectly clean and uncompromised, unscratched is another thing.



#24 mightGETaSUBARU

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 09:28 PM

Gary why can I not use the timing belt, it has about 7,000 miles on it and I can still see all the timing marks



#25 Fairtax4me

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 11:11 PM

If your belt is new it should be fine to re-use. I think Gary is thinking your timin idler pulleys need to be replaced, which is true if they were not replaced with the belt.
If any feel loose or dry when spun or have noticeable play they need to be replaced.
The one with the teeth is the most likely to fail for some reason. A failure of any of the idlers or the water pump will result in a broken timing belt which will also cause valve damage.




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