El Presidente Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 If its idling at 40* BTDC, than restab the distributor 1 or 2 teeth and make it idle at 20*. The plug test will come back bad because your timing is so far off. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted October 12, 2016 Author Share Posted October 12, 2016 If its idling at 40* BTDC, than restab the distributor 1 or 2 teeth and make it idle at 20*. The plug test will come back bad because your timing is so far off. Josh o.k. I'll keep trying that. I want the rotor to fall back clockwise (retard the timing) one or two teeth. Gotcha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted October 13, 2016 Author Share Posted October 13, 2016 Didn't even have to pull the distributor. Just turned it counterclockwise a tad and locked it in at 20 BTDC with my trusty timing light. Still idling rough and burning rich with all the other dirty MAF sensor symptoms. I'll get a can of MAFS cleaner and clean the hot wires. It's on my things 2-do list anyhow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 Is their any possibility that the fuel pressure and return lines got swapped by accident during the surgery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted October 18, 2016 Author Share Posted October 18, 2016 (edited) Is their any possibility that the fuel pressure and return lines got swapped by accident during the surgery? I switched them around a couple weeks ago thinking I had them mixed up but it wouldn't even start after that IIRC? Oldsubfreak sent me a pic of his fuel line arrangement to go by. He has an identical 88 SPFI ea82 DR wagon. I wonder if switching them around could have damaged the regulator? I've been driving it after it warms up. It just won't idle until it warms up. Then while driving it bucks at part throttle but takes off good at full wide open throttle. When I come to a stop the RPM's stay at 2000 for a few seconds then they drop down to 800. My vacuum gauge has been reading steady at 13 lbs. but I can't find any vac leaks anywhere. I put a new 02 sensor on yesterday but it didn't help. Waiting for OneEye to see if he can locate a spare MAF sensor for me to swap in. I did spray mine with CRC MAF cleaner with the motor running. RPM's increased and engine ran smoother with each spray. Starved for fuel perhaps? hmmm? I recall reading that a bad MAFS can mimic low vacuum. Edited October 18, 2016 by darsdoug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 The coolant temperature sensor can screw up drivability and not cause a code. Carb MAF cleaner yeah, things run good on those, could be a sign it's short on fuel in the mix. I just bought a can of MAF cleaner - the parts store guy said to make sure everything was powered down when using it, not to do it while running. I'd like confirmation that this is accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted October 18, 2016 Author Share Posted October 18, 2016 The coolant temperature sensor can screw up drivability and not cause a code. Carb MAF cleaner yeah, things run good on those, could be a sign it's short on fuel in the mix. I just bought a can of MAF cleaner - the parts store guy said to make sure everything was powered down when using it, not to do it while running. I'd like confirmation that this is accurate. The parts guy's instruction's makes sense to me now that you've mentioned it. The cleaner probably works better when the wires in the MAF are cold? With the key on I believe they heat up to around 800 degree's? and as the incoming cooler air passes over them it sends a signal (a change in resistance) to the ECU. I believe that's why they are referred to as "hot wires". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 That all sounds good. My guess is that either the shock of cold would be bad for the heater, and or it getting coated it partially burned cleaner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 It's gotta be the MAF sensor. I can keep it running when I first start it if I give it a little throttle (add air to the mix) then when it will finally roughly idle the exhaust fumes coming from the tailpipe will make your eye's water. (more fuel than air). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted October 20, 2016 Author Share Posted October 20, 2016 Just leaning over the engine compartment after dark this evening and observed blue spark traveling down the porcelain side of #2 spark plug. Looks like time for some new NGK plugs and wires. Could this possibly be the turd in the punchbowl? I sure didn't see that little anomaly during daylight hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 any arc like you describe is going to interfere with ignition. It is not normal, it's failed insulation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 (edited) So today I put in new NGK spark plugs BPR6EY-11 and a cheap set of duralast ignition wires for $16.99 but now it runs worse than yesterday. I'm still leaning toward a bad MAF sensor as being the problem. I pulled the plug wires off while it was chugging away and noticed there was no difference when I pulled the wire off #2 spark plug. I immediately did a compression test and it was 150psi on that cylinder which seems o.k. So I have good spark and good compression on #2 but it acts likes it's dead when I remove the wire from that plug. Jeez. Hopefully I won't go crazy before I get it running right. Edited October 21, 2016 by darsdoug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 That's odd. Try using the old wire on that plug. Or the old #1 wire. The idea is to swap out the wire, to verify that the new one isn't bad. I only use NGK wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 (edited) I pushed down real hard on the dist. cap when I was putting on the new plug wires to make sure they seated good. Now it runs and sputters 100% worse. Looking like a bad distributor now? Keeping my fingers crossed. These Duralast plug wires are good enough for now. And what is the black connector with the two blue wires for? Edited October 22, 2016 by darsdoug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 That's odd. Try using the old wire on that plug. Or the old #1 wire. The idea is to swap out the wire, to verify that the new one isn't bad. I only use NGK wires. I tried that wire swapping strategy but there was no difference. Yes I should have got better wires but I'm a little strapped at the moment. Now I am leaning toward the distributor being wonky also. I think I'll take it apart and see what I can find? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Well that proves the wires are ok. Might be worth compression checking at least one other cylinder for comparison. It is odd that it is much worse with new plugs and wires. Having a hard time thinking of how that could have bothered the disty. Any chance you cross wired 2 cylinders? I did that once, it ran like crap, but it ran. Just want to rule out stuff before going on a wild goose chase. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted October 22, 2016 Author Share Posted October 22, 2016 Another afternoon lost in the vast corridors of thought. I had to take a step back and review my work by memory today but it appears to be paying off. Firing order 1324 and rotor turns counterclockwise. Cylinders 1 & 2 located front to back on passenger side and 3 & 4 are front to back on drivers side. Did I overlook being certain #1 was at TDC of it's compression stroke the last time I installed the distributor? even though I had the "0" lined up at the flywheel? (yes! that was one blunder I fixed today) Also, could the steel sheet metal screw I'd substituted to secure the rotor to the distributor shaft have been another mistake? (The original brass screw had been misplaced during my chaotic work, har har) At least it will start and run now but #2 cylinder is still a dead horse when I remove a plug wire. I even switched spark plugs and got the same result. Another poster told me a vacuum leak can in fact kill one cylinder. hmmm? Isn't the TBI "ea82" a single runner intake manifold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 The air passage from the TB to the head is one round tube. The head splits the airflow between the 2 valves. I could see a vacuum leak throwing off 2 cylinders on one side more than the other 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 (edited) You are calling the cylinders by the wrong number. As you look at the engine from the front, #3----#4 #1----#2 ---CP--- Firing order is 1-3-2-4 going CCW. Going by your picture, plug wires appear correct on the cap however. I have found it best,(for me), to have engine sitting at 20*BTDC (SPFI) (*8 for carbed) on #1 compression stroke, and drop disty in with rotor pointing at #1 tower on the cap. Puts the adjustment slots just about center for the bolts. And yes, a vacuum leak will mess with these engines some fierce if it is on the intake runner(s). Take a good look at #1 & #3 side intake runner, there is a vacuum port on it that feeds the Purge & EGR solenoids along with the heater controls. Very easy to knock it off one of the fittings, or even break fitting off one of the solenoids. Guilty as charged on that one myself. That engine ran like poo at idle. Edited October 22, 2016 by TomRhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted October 22, 2016 Author Share Posted October 22, 2016 (edited) You are calling the cylinders by the wrong number. As you look at the engine from the front, #3----#4 #1----#2 ---CP--- Firing order is 1-3-2-4 going CCW. Going by your picture, plug wires appear correct on the cap however. I have found it best,(for me), to have engine sitting at 20*BTDC (SPFI) (*8 for carbed) on #1 compression stroke, and drop disty in with rotor pointing at #1 tower on the cap. Puts the adjustment slots just about center for the bolts. And yes, a vacuum leak will mess with these engines some fierce if it is on the intake runner(s). Take a good look at #1 & #3 side intake runner, there is a vacuum port on it that feeds the Purge & EGR solenoids along with the heater controls. Very easy to knock it off one of the fittings, or even break fitting off one of the solenoids. Guilty as charged on that one myself. That engine ran like poo at idle. Edited October 22, 2016 by darsdoug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted October 22, 2016 Author Share Posted October 22, 2016 (edited) You are calling the cylinders by the wrong number. As you look at the engine from the front, #3----#4 #1----#2 ---CP--- Firing order is 1-3-2-4 going CCW. Going by your picture, plug wires appear correct on the cap however. I have found it best,(for me), to have engine sitting at 20*BTDC (SPFI) (*8 for carbed) on #1 compression stroke, and drop disty in with rotor pointing at #1 tower on the cap. Puts the adjustment slots just about center for the bolts. And yes, a vacuum leak will mess with these engines some fierce if it is on the intake runner(s). Take a good look at #1 & #3 side intake runner, there is a vacuum port on it that feeds the Purge & EGR solenoids along with the heater controls. Very easy to knock it off one of the fittings, or even break fitting off one of the solenoids. Guilty as charged on that one myself. That engine ran like poo at idle. All this time and I just had the cylinders mixed up? (oh my god) Thanks Tom. Edited October 23, 2016 by darsdoug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted October 23, 2016 Author Share Posted October 23, 2016 (edited) You helped me out bigtime Tom. "Thanks again". Now I just need to determine why it's delivering such a rich fuel mixture and sometimes bucking under load at part throttle. There does seem to be a sweet spot at half throttle. I'll figure it out sooner or later. With help from the experienced people here anyhow. The rotor screw fell out this morning when I was sitting in traffic waiting at a stoplight. Edited October 23, 2016 by darsdoug 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted October 23, 2016 Author Share Posted October 23, 2016 It's only throwing code 34. (EGR or solenoid circuit) hmmm? "That's enlightening". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Code 34 - most likely the solenoid coil is open. OEM ones all fail. My fix is linked below - http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted October 24, 2016 Author Share Posted October 24, 2016 Code 34 - most likely the solenoid coil is open. OEM ones all fail. My fix is linked below - http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html Hey thanks for the link Dave. I'm picking up another MAF this week to see if it possibly cures the rich fuel mixture problem I'm still having. I checked my EGR diaphragm today and it moves when I rev the engine. Would a bad EGR solenoid cause bucking while accelerating? That is what's presently going on daily with my 88 SPFI DR Subaru wagon whenever I drive it on the street. "It's almost fixed". Getting closer anyhow. The CO and HC's are still off the grid according to my olfactory glands. Whew! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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