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Guest Message by DevFuse

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2.5 Liter solid lifter valve tool

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2 replies to this topic

#1 bdshafe


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Posted 17 April 2004 - 02:49 PM

In the middle of replacing the dreaded head gaskets on 97 2.5. at the point where i need the tool to change the valve shims. I know the tool #. But can't find anywhere to get the tool. Been to Subaru dealer, NAPA, etc. Where can I get the tool?

#2 theotherskip


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Posted 17 April 2004 - 08:35 PM

the tool isn't necessary if you are removing the cams, as you have to if you are replacing the head gaskets...

#3 bdshafe


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Posted 18 April 2004 - 08:36 PM

Already well past removing cams. Have heads re-installed. read post on using large screw driver, and needle nose pliers to remove valve shims after cams have been re-installed as you have to do when you are playing musical shims. Used a drum brake adjustment tool (sort of like double ended screw driver with both ends bent at differen angles). That works fairly well, especially since I have the engine on a engine stand. Got wife to pull out shim while I held "bucket" depressed using brake tool while prying against rough part of cam. (not my wife's favorite kind of thing to do.)

Should have measured valve to cam clearances before dissembly of heads. Did measure all valve shims before re-installation of cams. In the process of moving some shims around, will have to buy at least several shims. Did notice that after 137,000 miles that most valves are still very close with most exhaust between 9 and 10 mills of gap and intake 7-8 mills. Spec's are 10 and 8 mills so they very close. I've used synthetic oil for life of vehicle so that might have helped.

Thoughts on causes of gasket failure. I've read alot of the other posts on this. I noted that the my gasket failed at the bottom of the cylinder, where this is almost certainly coolant even if you have even a half full system. I changed water pump about a month before head gaskets failed. Did this just because I was replacing a front drive shaft seal and timing belt (at 137,000 miles). Did every thing aftermarket manul suggests about getting any air out of system including using blead plug on passengers side of radiator. However, I still think there might have been air in the system for the following reasons.

The engine tilts up at the front by about 15 degrees. The crossover water coolant pipe between the two heads (it is hidden under the intake manifold) connects the rear two cylinders together. the crossover pipe then extendeds upward at about the 15 degree angle to the hose that attaches to the passenger side of the radiator. With the upward tilt of the engine, the front two cylinders could still have air trapped at the top of the cylinders, especially if you are refilling the system with the front end of the car off ground as one normally does if you have to get under car to replace the water pump.
It Might make sense to point the nose of car slightly down hill when burping the system. Also have the right side of the car slighty elevated as tha is where the air would make its way to the radiator.

Secondly, I noticed that the cylinders are siamesed together so that no coolant flows between the them. Infact the iron cylinder liners are almost touching. Cylinders also cast with so that the are directly connected to the side of both cylinders to the block. the lack of coolant all the way around the cylinder wall can lead to uneven expansion of the cylinder wall. And since the cylinders are "constrained" at both their right and left sides, they will expand more at the top and bottem of the cylinders when the get up to operating temperature.

Would like to know if the 2.2 liter engine has siamesed cylinders. We have a 90 legacy with 193,000 miles with virtually no problems.

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