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Guest Message by DevFuse

- - - - -

Heading to a U Pull yard for some parts, need to know what tools I should bring

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7 replies to this topic

#1 danbennett2u


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Posted 18 May 2013 - 03:11 PM



Need to fix my wife's 95 AWD Impreza up.  I am going to hit the serf serve yard tomorrow.  I need to know what tools I need to bring in order to effictively remove these pieces:



Carrier bearing


Left rear wheel bearing/knuckle

Right Front wheel bearing/knuckle

Turn signal switch.


Possibly seats if I can find a decent set out of a Forester.

I do not have power tools.  I know its all going to be metric, and will be bringing breaker bars, ratchets, hammer, but any of you guys know what I need as far as axle nut sizes, the sizes for any of the bolts needed for removal of the driveshaft and knuckles?


#2 gbianchi


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Posted 18 May 2013 - 07:09 PM

I bring 10 12 14 17 19 22 sockets/ratchets, 1012141719 combo open/box, breaker bar with cheater pipes, little bfh, visegrips assorted sizes, pb blaster, gloves, a rag, saftey glasses, prying tool aka bfscrewdriver. Those knuckles can be a bear to remove, you need a 5/16 inch punch for axel pins, go threw the job in your head bring anything that comes to mind, plan then act.......G

#3 mikaleda


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Posted 18 May 2013 - 07:22 PM

36mm is the axle nut size, bring a propane torch and a BFH in case of seized bolts. Definatly bring a breaker bar, breaker bar and BFH= poor mans impact diver.

Edit: 36mm is not the right size for the axle nut, I was thinking old gen for some reason sorry.

Edited by mikaleda, 18 May 2013 - 07:24 PM.

#4 SubieTrav


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Posted 18 May 2013 - 07:52 PM

The axle nut is 32mm.

#5 14D


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Posted 18 May 2013 - 08:24 PM

I couldn't get my axle nuts off without a propane torch and impact gun.  I didn't have a good cheater bar though, from what I've read that works for most people.

#6 lmdew



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Posted 18 May 2013 - 08:26 PM

Front Hub:

Before you remove the brake rotor, put a large screwdriver into the rotor through the brake caliper to lock it up.

Break the axle nut loose and make sure you can put the axle in.  There are so many in the yards, it's not worth messing with one that the axle if frozen in with rust.  After all it is Colorado.

Remove the steering rack nut and smack it, it will come out

Remove the bottom nut on the ball joint and put a large hammer on the back side of the lower A-arm and hit the font until the ball joint pops up

Then remove the upper strut bolts.


Rear is just about the same, but remove the lower knuckle to support arms, long bolt first.  Again if it's frozen move on.

#7 unibrook



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Posted 12 June 2013 - 08:02 AM

Deliciously understated......."remove...the long bolt first.  Again, if it's frozen, move on."

yes indeed, that lateral link bolt can be a real show-stopper.

you can use a propane torch to melt off the lip of one of the bushings then pound out the entire frozen bolt/bushing as one piece.

Or use a Sawzall to cut the bolt.

But yes, "move on" is the best advice.


Also, for axle nuts.  I haven't found one yet that could resist the leverage provided by my .5" breaker bar with a 6' iron bar slid over on top of it.

Don't bother with a 3/8" breaker bar.....those will snap like a toothpick.

Edited by unibrook, 12 June 2013 - 08:06 AM.

#8 ericstell


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Posted 12 June 2013 - 08:23 AM

what yard you go to the one near retro roo off broadway in north denver .i agree with moveing on to the next one if rust just wont let go.. plenty of subis in co junk yards . im about due to go out to the yard my self

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