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Bolt not budging on crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer

pulley harmonic balancer

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15 replies to this topic

#1 sonotchdlr

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 12:54 PM

Hey everyone, hoping someone might have some advice, as I've been a googling fool for the last few days.  I have a 1990 Subaru legacy which has been overheating... we replaced radiator, did fine for a while, then started overheating... started by replacing thermostat, didn't do it, assuming it must be the water pump then... decided to replace water pump and do timing belt while we're in there... so started to tear everything out that we need to so we can get to water pump, and we're stuck at the crank shaft pulley/harmonic balancer. 

 

We secured the pulley with a tie down, so it wasn't budging, and went the bolt with a breaker bar... NOTHING, no movement of the bolt, that sucker is ON THERE... problem is, the center of the pulley, wants to budge when we crank on the bolt.  I'm assuming this means there's a problem with the pulley itself, but right now just want to get it off, and replace that if need be.  I was told the center should not budge if the outside is locked down, or the rubber in the center is bad.  Either way, I need to get that bolt off, and I'm at loss of how to do so... we were cranking on it big time... nothing.  Any advice???  Not sure if we should try to find way to hold the center still, or if there's a tool to use for that?  Can't find anything online for it.  HELP!

 

Any info is appreciated!!!

Ayrial



#2 sonotchdlr

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 12:55 PM

Additional note, the car has idle issues when cold, could this be related to the pulley being bad?  Some things I read online lead me to think it may be related.



#3 matt167

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 02:00 PM

Put breaker bar on the bolt, put it so that the bolt will contact the frame in the right direction. Bump starter. Whatever is breaking is going to break, so let it and fix it when it's apart.. Your balancer may have 2 small holes on the front outside ridge that drift pins will fit into so you can put a bar in between them and loosen the nut



#4 davebugs

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 02:21 PM

Put breaker bar on the bolt, put it so that the bolt will contact the frame in the right direction. Bump starter. Whatever is breaking is going to break, so let it and fix it when it's apart.. Your balancer may have 2 small holes on the front outside ridge that drift pins will fit into so you can put a bar in between them and loosen the nut

Best way if it's stubborn.  One of Snap-on breaker bars hits over by the battery fo rlike the last 1/4" of the handle.

 

Now you wanna get that bolt back on TIGHT as well.



#5 sonotchdlr

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 04:08 PM

Thanks guys!!!



#6 Cougar

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 04:49 PM

You may have head gasket problems causing the overheating. Bad intake gaskets might be causing the idle problem. Listen for air leaks around the gaskets or see if the idle changes by spraying some WD-40 around the gaskets.



#7 Gloyale

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 05:34 PM

waterpump won't ussually cause overheating itself.  Only if it's leaking and you run low enough on coolant.

 

If you are not out of coolant, yet the engine is oveheating, it's quite possibly headgaskets.

 

Either way you need to take off the belt.  Bumping the starter with a breaker against the frame is the best way.



#8 sonotchdlr

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 05:49 PM

Hayne's manual doesn't specify whether or not crank shaft bolt is reverse thread or not... when someone mentioned putting it towards the battery area sounds like it's reverse... anyone have a definite answer on that?



#9 capn_r

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 05:51 PM

The engine turns clockwise viewing from the front. Standard right hand threads.



#10 davebugs

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 08:56 PM

The engine turns clockwise viewing from the front. Standard right hand threads.

To clarify.  Place the breaker bar on the crank bolt and the "subframe" over by the battery.  They hit the starter - and the engine will turn the correct direction and the breaker bar will stay still.

 

I realize this is your current issue.  But when reinstalling that bolt it's VERY important that it's really tight.

 

I had some tools made for teh older and newer harmonic balancers that allow the crank bolt socket to be placed in the middle.  I prefer something like that instead of jambing something into the flexplate, etc.

 

There may be an affordable tool made fo rthis purpose.



#11 Fairtax4me

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 09:26 PM

Engine turns clockwise, so put the end of the breaker bar on the top of the frame rail on the drivers side.

To put it the bolt back on you can lock the flywheel/ flex plate.
If a manual trans put the trans in 5th gear and set the parking brake. This only works if all wheels are on the ground.
If an automagic trans put a screwdriver through the hole in the bellhousing. I can't find the picture I was going to link to. But midway down the side of the bellhousing is a small hole, about 10mm. You can put a large screwdriver through the hole and turn the crank until the screwdriver slides into one of the holes in the flex plate. Now the crank is locked and you can tighten the crank bolt.

#12 ocei77

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 07:26 AM

 ..... I can't find the picture I was going to link to. But midway down the side of the bellhousing is a small hole, about 10mm. You can put a large screwdriver through the hole and turn the crank until the screwdriver slides into one of the holes in the flex plate. Now the crank is locked and you can tighten the crank bolt.

 

 

credits to Canubaru for pic

 

O.

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#13 86BRATMAN

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 08:03 AM

I always wondered what those holes were for, now I know.



#14 ivans imports

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 09:21 AM

+ 1 bar on ds frame rail hit starter or pry bar into flex plate from top side



#15 ShawnW

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 06:36 PM

 ..... I can't find the picture I was going to link to. But midway down the side of the bellhousing is a small hole, about 10mm. You can put a large screwdriver through the hole and turn the crank until the screwdriver slides into one of the holes in the flex plate. Now the crank is locked and you can tighten the crank bolt.

 

 

credits to Canubaru for pic

 

O.

 

This will work above anything else including the starter trick.  Its also safer.  But don't use a screwdriver use a tapered pin punch that is very strong/quality.  Screwdrivers aren't meant for this.



#16 Fairtax4me

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 11:47 PM

If you use a quality screwdriver it's fine, cheapie a might break.
Also, don't forget about the screwdriver or punch and try to start the engine. The starter will just bend or break it and it may get stuck in the bellhousing.
I bent a 5/16" Allen wrench that way. I wrapped the end of it in red electrical tape after that so I could see it better and hopefully not forget about it again.




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