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Loyale painting question: Painting on top of current paint.

Loyale paint acrylic lacquer paintgun

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10 replies to this topic

#1 Zekeuyasha

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 07:50 PM

As you can see in my profile photo, the paint on my car could use a little co-ordination. So I bought a pint of Subaru Rio Red (Called High-Tech Red by the paint company) in a "Ready-to-spray" can. It says on the can that no reducers are necessary, but do I have to add anything else to the paint? 

 

I want to just rough up the paint that's currently on the car now (Hood, fender) and spray over it. 

 

My other question is what kind of clear coat would acrylic lacquer paint require? My end goal is just to make it red. Close enough that you can't notices at 25 MPH that the car is in fact two-toned. I can take better pictures of the paint on the rest of the car. Thanks in advance!



#2 Godsmulligan

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 08:43 PM

1 pint isn't very much, especially if it's already been thined. You will need more than that, but you shouldn't need a clear coat. Just make sure you scuff up the paint with scotch brite, to a dull finish. With as long as the paint job has been on the car, I would recomend a sanding and primer to lessen the chance of a paint reaction.

 

If you paint it with just scuffing the paint the chance is very high you will get a reaction. The only time I scuff is when it was just recently painted and I missed something and had to repaint.


Edited by Godsmulligan, 25 May 2013 - 09:50 PM.


#3 Zekeuyasha

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 03:37 PM

does that mean I should sand it all the way down to base metal? :o



#4 Gloyale

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 04:47 PM

You don't need to sand down to metal.  Just scuff the clearcoat really good.

 

But you will need primer.  If you don't use primer, the paint will not stick for more than 6mo-1yr max.  Plus a good primer coat will fill and hide minor scratches and dings in the original paint.



#5 MilesFox

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 10:37 PM

+1 on the scotch brite. think of it as scrubbing the car  so the paint will stick. basically take the shine out of the paint, and be sure to clear any dust from the surface. window cleaner works well for this.

 

I have always spray painted cars with rattle can for lack of having access to real painting equipment. The most important thing with rattle cans is painting pattern, as you will systematically work down the car in several sessions as the spray pattern is narrow.

 

Per gloyale's advise, spray up the car with primer after scotch brite-ing and give it a wet sand with 600 grit paper.



#6 Zekeuyasha

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Posted 27 May 2013 - 08:17 PM

I have decided to put a clear coat down just to make a good job of it. What kind of clear coat do I need for acrylic lacquer paint?



#7 Godsmulligan

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 09:28 AM

I wouldn't use a clear coat unless you plan on putting a thick coat on wet sanding it smooth then capping with clear coat. sometimes clear coat doesn't adhear very well to the paint, and it flakes off. Your paint will already have a nice gloss finish, just buff it and watch it shine. Clear coat is really only for a showroom finish or turn a dull finish to gloss.


Edited by Godsmulligan, 28 May 2013 - 09:30 AM.


#8 Gloyale

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 10:24 AM

I wouldn't use a clear coat unless you plan on putting a thick coat on wet sanding it smooth then capping with clear coat. sometimes clear coat doesn't adhear very well to the paint, and it flakes off. Your paint will already have a nice gloss finish, just buff it and watch it shine. Clear coat is really only for a showroom finish or turn a dull finish to gloss.


You don't know paint do you?

An enamel paint doesn't need to be clear coated. An acrylic laquer does. If your clear coat peels off it means you didn't apply it right, or you used the wrong type.

If you are spraying duplicolor paint use the duplicolor clear coat.

If you are spraying ppg "deltron" then use delfleet 660 clear with a fast reducer hardener

#9 wallaby

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 10:26 AM

make sure you clean.......

wipe down with multi purpose thinner after sanding/scotchbriting to get rid of oil etc

this is most important to make the paint stick

oh and lastly...

have fun - something very satisfying about painting a car....



#10 Godsmulligan

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 10:38 AM

You don't know paint do you?

An enamel paint doesn't need to be clear coated. An acrylic laquer does. If your clear coat peels off it means you didn't apply it right, or you used the wrong type.

If you are spraying duplicolor paint use the duplicolor clear coat.

If you are spraying ppg "deltron" then use delfleet 660 clear with a fast reducer hardener

I'm still weary on clear coats I've seen to many flake off from factory paint jobs.

 

edit* I knew laquer paint dried dull, but I thought acrylic laquer was something different. Last time I bought automotive paint, over a decade a go, they didn't even sell laquer anymore. Might of just been the paint store I was going to. Anyway yeah, Laquer, paint, sand and clear.

 

My bad.


Edited by Godsmulligan, 28 May 2013 - 10:52 AM.


#11 Zekeuyasha

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 12:38 AM

Thank you guys so much.I honestly don't know a thing about painting and I want to do a good job on this. The hood is going from sky blue to rio red And the fender from sparkly misty dawn hahaha thanks guys





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