Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

Lateral Link Bolt Cut Off, Knuckle Damaged, Doh!


  • Please log in to reply
19 replies to this topic

#1 stevetone

stevetone

    Subaru Owner Since 1995

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 114 posts
  • Stoughton, WI

Posted 06 June 2013 - 03:15 PM

Well, after wrestling with the lateral link bolt, aka "BAB," for 2 days, i went to Plan B--the reciprocating saw.

 

All went well, taking only 15 minutes to make 2 cuts into the Grade 8 bolt. I had expected a much harder time of it, as I used some cheap blades I had laying around. *Only* went through 4 of them!

 

Anyway, after feeling really good about that, I looked at the knuckle and noticed that I carved into it 1/16 - 1/8" or so. Photo attached.

 

So my question is: If I grind that smooth, can I reuse the knuckle? Or am I just asking for trouble in alignment?

 

So far, this *wheel bearing job* is more about battling rust than the actual bearing. I haven't even got to that part yet...

 

 

steve

2003 Forester X

Attached Files


Edited by stevetone, 06 June 2013 - 03:29 PM.


#2 rxleone

rxleone

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Members
  • 528 posts
  • Christchurch, New Zealand

Posted 06 June 2013 - 03:40 PM

I can't really help you with the issue, but that much rust on a 2003 model? That's bad!!



#3 davebugs

davebugs

    I don't "friend"

  • Members
  • 3,112 posts
  • Pittsburgh suburbs (NE)

Posted 06 June 2013 - 03:43 PM

I used to just buya whole used "stub" - easier to install, no messing at all with that bolt.

 

That's what I'd likely still do - check your local JY's.

 

When I was doing 95-99's they's deliver one for 100 bucks.  Not near the frustration.



#4 Fairtax4me

Fairtax4me

    Su bah roo'n

  • Gold Subscribers
  • 8,669 posts
  • Charlottesburg, VA

Posted 06 June 2013 - 03:49 PM

That shouldn't affect alignment, but if you want to feel more comfortable about it that should be easy to grind smooth with an angle grinder. Careful though, aluminum can deform easily if it gets too hot while grinding.

RX, this particular bolt is known to be a son-of-a-beech even on cars that aren't rusty. It's about 10" long and the center section (about 4") is exposed to dirt and road grime, which quickly causes corrosion of the aluminum knuckle.

#5 stevetone

stevetone

    Subaru Owner Since 1995

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 114 posts
  • Stoughton, WI

Posted 06 June 2013 - 04:07 PM

I can't really help you with the issue, but that much rust on a 2003 model? That's bad!!

 

It was a Chicago rental car in its previous life. They use a little salt on the roads there in the winter...You should see the outside of the brake drum!

 

(Of course, Wisconsin, where I live, is not any better.)

 

 

That shouldn't affect alignment, but if you want to feel more comfortable about it that should be easy to grind smooth with an angle grinder. Careful though, aluminum can deform easily if it gets too hot while grinding.

RX, this particular bolt is known to be a son-of-a-beech even on cars that aren't rusty. It's about 10" long and the center section (about 4") is exposed to dirt and road grime, which quickly causes corrosion of the aluminum knuckle.

 

So smoothing it out a bit will not reduce the width enough to cause a problem? The other side I did a better job, so no touch-up would be needed there.

 

Thanks everyone for your help! Hope to get to the actual project, replacing the bearing, sometime soon  :mellow:



#6 stevetone

stevetone

    Subaru Owner Since 1995

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 114 posts
  • Stoughton, WI

Posted 06 June 2013 - 04:08 PM

I used to just buya whole used "stub" - easier to install, no messing at all with that bolt.

 

That's what I'd likely still do - check your local JY's.

 

When I was doing 95-99's they's deliver one for 100 bucks.  Not near the frustration.

 

That sounds like a good approach. You are much wiser than me...



#7 davebugs

davebugs

    I don't "friend"

  • Members
  • 3,112 posts
  • Pittsburgh suburbs (NE)

Posted 06 June 2013 - 05:03 PM

That sounds like a good approach. You are much wiser than me...

Hey - it's already off to take to an old fashioned press that way also if you wish to swap the bearing.  I'd jsut try to go by feel ont eh new "stub" and only one time bothered having a new bearing installed (I have no press or fancy hub tamer, etc.).

 

Infact I started doing thie instead of doing the bearings.  ANd I beleive I got the idea here actually.  Not an original idea.



#8 Caboobaroo

Caboobaroo

    USMB Drunk

  • Members
  • 6,880 posts
  • Oregon City

Posted 06 June 2013 - 07:29 PM

I've had to do the me thing. Unfortunately, some of them don't like to move, even with a press and a torch. I found out the hard way when the knuckle broke before the bolt moved....

If you grind that ear flat, you should have no issues with the alignment.

#9 grossgary

grossgary

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 19,750 posts
  • WV

Posted 07 June 2013 - 05:53 AM

grind it, it's a nonissue.



#10 CNY_Dave

CNY_Dave

    03 LL Bean H6

  • Members
  • 1,422 posts
  • Near Cortland NY

Posted 07 June 2013 - 08:40 AM

Just make sure the nut threads on far enough to actually 'pinch' everything together tightly.

 

If not, stack washer as needed under the nut. Or maybe even put one the thickness of what you cut away at the point where it was cut.



#11 stevetone

stevetone

    Subaru Owner Since 1995

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 114 posts
  • Stoughton, WI

Posted 07 June 2013 - 04:39 PM

Thank you everyone for your help. I will grind smooth and continue.

 

BTW, a Pitman Puller did a nice job on getting the bushings out of the control arms. I had rigged up a pipe and bolt solution on the first bushing, but ended up snapping the bolt. The Pitman was much easier.

 

steve



#12 unibrook

unibrook

    Sube1

  • Members
  • 471 posts
  • Boston

Posted 12 June 2013 - 08:59 AM

Email me if you want my step-by-step guide on how to replace your rear wheel bearing with the Hub Shark (HF style) tool kit.


The lateral link bolt is the potential show-stopper.  But I have a solution for that puppy.


nwlovell at yahoo.



#13 MilesFox

MilesFox

    Catch this Fox!

  • Members
  • 10,447 posts
  • Madison/Milwaukee, WI

Posted 12 June 2013 - 09:04 AM

In wisconsin you have tp pre-emptively take everything apart while it is somewhat new, so that you can get it apart when service is due.

 

I worked at the uhaul on atlas ct installing hitches and you would be amazed at how much rust there would be on a 5 year old car. 



#14 unibrook

unibrook

    Sube1

  • Members
  • 471 posts
  • Boston

Posted 12 June 2013 - 09:06 AM

yep,  ANTI-SEIZE EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



#15 ivans imports

ivans imports

    1000+ Super USER!

  • Members
  • 2,928 posts
  • lumby bc canada

Posted 12 June 2013 - 09:11 AM

Had a 01 outback yesterday that when i hoisted it the rear diff hanger / suspention broke and fell down the frame x member rusted thru i had to tell them was unsafe have never seen thiss before and was broken in a way was very dangerus and could have been catastofic if broke at hyway speeds good thing it broke on hoist. The ps rear wheel had nothing holding it to car other than rear shock and the customer had no idea complant of pulling to ps side



#16 Fairtax4me

Fairtax4me

    Su bah roo'n

  • Gold Subscribers
  • 8,669 posts
  • Charlottesburg, VA

Posted 13 June 2013 - 11:45 PM

The 00-09(?) rear subframes are developing a reputation for being rusty as H-E-double-hockey-sticks.
Seems to me there was a thread that mentioned a TSB for it. Not sure if there was a recall.

#17 grossgary

grossgary

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 19,750 posts
  • WV

Posted 14 June 2013 - 07:30 AM

yep,  ANTI-SEIZE EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i've had anti seized parts still be seized in under a year, that stuff isnt' all that great.  better than nothing i'm sure but i've had ball joints still seized in the knuckle in short order.  at some point i wanted to start another thread about that and see what folks are doing to prevent seized bolts/ball joints, slides, etc.  and see if anyone else has had antiseize not really fair that well all the time.  it does good and all but i've had a few times where it seemed lacking.

 

Had a 01 outback yesterday that when i hoisted it the rear diff hanger / suspention broke and fell down the frame x member rusted thru i had to tell them was unsafe have never seen thiss before and was broken in a way was very dangerus and could have been catastofic if broke at hyway speeds good thing it broke on hoist. The ps rear wheel had nothing holding it to car other than rear shock and the customer had no idea complant of pulling to ps side

 

those early 00-04's had rear subframe rust issues with a recall of some sort - Subaru has paid for the replacement before...a couple of folks have had those paid for/repaired in just the last year or two, might want to call Subaru.


Edited by grossgary, 14 June 2013 - 07:32 AM.


#18 ivans imports

ivans imports

    1000+ Super USER!

  • Members
  • 2,928 posts
  • lumby bc canada

Posted 14 June 2013 - 09:17 AM

What a bugger to change it took me a whole day many seized bolts and came out in 4 peices is somthing to watch for. Its hollow so the salt and dirt gets traped inside it I call boooo on that part was better off with the struts in the back



#19 grossgary

grossgary

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 19,750 posts
  • WV

Posted 14 June 2013 - 11:19 AM

What a bugger to change it took me a whole day many seized bolts and came out in 4 peices is somthing to watch for. Its hollow so the salt and dirt gets traped inside it I call boooo on that part was better off with the struts in the back

did you have to drill out a bunch of bolts - i've always wondered how it's even replaceable - rust is so bad around here i can't imagine what i'd do with every bolt shearing off.

 

did you check with Subaru on recall/replacement part?  they can search the VIN but you know all that..



#20 Gloyale

Gloyale

    It's a sickness

  • Members
  • 9,057 posts
  • Corvallis, OR PNW

Posted 14 June 2013 - 11:31 AM

That shouldn't affect alignment, but if you want to feel more comfortable about it that should be easy to grind smooth with an angle grinder. Careful though, aluminum can deform easily if it gets too hot while grinding.

RX, this particular bolt is known to be a son-of-a-beech even on cars that aren't rusty. It's about 10" long and the center section (about 4") is exposed to dirt and road grime, which quickly causes corrosion of the aluminum knuckle.

 

Knuckle isn't aluminum.

 

If it was aluminum, it wouldn't be covered in red rust.

 

I wouldn't reinstall that knuckle.....get another






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users