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1982 GL Wagon front wheel bearings?


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11 replies to this topic

#1 unibrook

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 05:02 PM

Are these the right ones?

Do I need 2 per side?

 

http://www.autoparts...33-1633822.html

 

Any better ones?  or other comments?

 

thx!


Edited by unibrook, 14 June 2013 - 05:02 PM.


#2 MilesFox

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 08:58 PM

There are 2 per side, all 4 being the same part number.



#3 kanurys

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Posted 16 June 2013 - 09:53 PM

You can probably find them cheaper. Try these guys: http://myworld.ebay....=p2047675.l2559

If you search for bearings with /C3 at the end of their part number that means they're of higher grade/lower tolerance for electric motors.

 

 

I know it's for EA82's but it's still useful for you: http://www.ultimates...e/#entry1156044

The link to GD's post is great.



#4 unibrook

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 08:38 AM

Perfect info, thanks!!    This Board rox!!

Our 1982 GL Wagon   WILL          NEVER              DIE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

:banana:



#5 ShawnW

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 04:33 PM

Don't forget the seals too.  I have those in stock.  



#6 unibrook

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 09:08 PM

Hi Shawn,  aren't these bearings pre-greased and pre-sealed?

Or is it some other seal you are talking about?



#7 unibrook

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Posted 02 July 2013 - 06:05 AM

Here are my thoughts and tips on the project to help the next guy:

 

1.  36mm socket for the axle nut.  And that gets tourqued to 145 ft/lbs.

2.  Have a source available for a new tie rod castle nut and cotter pins, if very corroded.

3.  The bearing housing lip is in the center of the housing, between the two bearings, where the bearing spacer resides.  No circlips anywhere, to either side.

4.  There are 2 seals.  One towards the engine, and one towards the wheel.  If you remove them carefully with a large screwdriver, you can probably reuse them.  The flat side of the seals face the bearings.

5.  Slide hammer with reversible jaws would probably take out old bearings the easiest.  Or you can tap them out with a large punch and hammer.  Our original NSK bearings had exposed ball bearings...no seals on the sides.

6.  Hub Tamer needs a 7/8" socket and a 1" wrench to use.  It works well for this project.

7.  The old inner bearing is removed towards the engine.  The old outer bearing is removed towards the wheel.

8.  A small punch would be handy to have in order to puch out remnants of old corroded cotter pins from ball joints.

9.  DO YOURSELF A FAVOR...be sure to DRY FIT the new bearings onto your axle before you install the new bearings.  Our axle had been replaced years ago at a Subaru Dealership.  The new bearings could not slide past the axle portion just inside of the splines.  No idea why.  But we had to grind down the axle just a tiny bit there with emery cloth to get the inner races to fit over the axle.

10.  DO NOT FORGET to reinstall the bearing SPACER after installing your first new bearing....before installing the second new bearing.



#8 ShawnW

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Posted 11 July 2013 - 03:44 PM

Hi Shawn,  aren't these bearings pre-greased and pre-sealed?

Or is it some other seal you are talking about?

I would still put the seals in if the bearings allow for it.



#9 Gloyale

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Posted 11 July 2013 - 08:10 PM

9.  DO YOURSELF A FAVOR...be sure to DRY FIT the new bearings onto your axle before you install the new bearings.  Our axle had been replaced years ago at a Subaru Dealership.  The new bearings could not slide past the axle portion just inside of the splines.  No idea why.  But we had to grind down the axle just a tiny bit there with emery cloth to get the inner races to fit over the axle.

10.  DO NOT FORGET to reinstall the bearing SPACER after installing your first new bearing....before installing the second new bearing.

 

The axle is supposed to be a pressfit into the bearings.

 

You are supposed to either use a slide hammer attached to the end of the axle, or you can use a large washer, and the claws of 2 claw hammers to pry the axle through.  Also, the old bearing inner races can be used as spacers with the axle nut to pull them through.

 

Any way you do it, they are supposed to pull through tight, not just slip in and out.........so I hope your axles stay tight in the hubs and bearings.



#10 Free Range

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 12:14 AM

Yup, generally great advise here.

 

Just did a front end on an 83 wagon, its been a long time since I was in one of these old tanks, refreshingly simple. 

 

I was replacing everything, so I pulled the whole hub. Its fairly involved, but easy to knock out the axles, ball joints, tie rods, and pull the whole hub and do it on the bench, just tap the bearings out and new (with new grease) in slowly and dink from side to side to keep em square, only hitting the outter race of the bearing with the drift. but I was replacing everything else up front at the same time.  whatever works...

 

I always use new dust seals.

 

Be sure to clean everything well, some grease doesnt mix well with others.

 

Dealer has rebuild kits for $50 per side.

 

Be sure to remember the anti-sneeze going beck together.



#11 alaskaloyale

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Posted 24 July 2013 - 02:46 AM

What comes in one of those dealer rebuild kits?



#12 Free Range

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Posted 02 August 2013 - 10:46 AM

dealer kit is both bearings and both dust seals for one hub rebuild.  (2 kits per car) 






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