Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

1982 GL Wagon front wheel bearings?


  • Please log in to reply
18 replies to this topic

#1 unibrook

unibrook

    Sube1

  • Members
  • 508 posts
  • Boston

Posted 14 June 2013 - 05:02 PM

Are these the right ones?

Do I need 2 per side?

 

http://www.autoparts...33-1633822.html

 

Any better ones?  or other comments?

 

thx!


Edited by unibrook, 14 June 2013 - 05:02 PM.


#2 MilesFox

MilesFox

    Catch this Fox!

  • Members
  • 10,686 posts
  • Madison/Milwaukee, WI

Posted 14 June 2013 - 08:58 PM

There are 2 per side, all 4 being the same part number.



#3 kanurys

kanurys

    High Altitude GL

  • Members
  • 707 posts
  • Durango, CO

Posted 16 June 2013 - 09:53 PM

You can probably find them cheaper. Try these guys: http://myworld.ebay....=p2047675.l2559

If you search for bearings with /C3 at the end of their part number that means they're of higher grade/lower tolerance for electric motors.

 

 

I know it's for EA82's but it's still useful for you: http://www.ultimates...e/#entry1156044

The link to GD's post is great.



#4 unibrook

unibrook

    Sube1

  • Members
  • 508 posts
  • Boston

Posted 19 June 2013 - 08:38 AM

Perfect info, thanks!!    This Board rox!!

Our 1982 GL Wagon   WILL          NEVER              DIE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

:banana:



#5 ShawnW

ShawnW

    Subaru Master Technician

  • Administrator
  • 12,955 posts
  • Denver, Colorado

Posted 19 June 2013 - 04:33 PM

Don't forget the seals too.  I have those in stock.  



#6 unibrook

unibrook

    Sube1

  • Members
  • 508 posts
  • Boston

Posted 19 June 2013 - 09:08 PM

Hi Shawn,  aren't these bearings pre-greased and pre-sealed?

Or is it some other seal you are talking about?



#7 unibrook

unibrook

    Sube1

  • Members
  • 508 posts
  • Boston

Posted 02 July 2013 - 06:05 AM

Here are my thoughts and tips on the project to help the next guy:

 

1.  36mm socket for the axle nut.  And that gets tourqued to 145 ft/lbs.

2.  Have a source available for a new tie rod castle nut and cotter pins, if very corroded.

3.  The bearing housing lip is in the center of the housing, between the two bearings, where the bearing spacer resides.  No circlips anywhere, to either side.

4.  There are 2 seals.  One towards the engine, and one towards the wheel.  If you remove them carefully with a large screwdriver, you can probably reuse them.  The flat side of the seals face the bearings.

5.  Slide hammer with reversible jaws would probably take out old bearings the easiest.  Or you can tap them out with a large punch and hammer.  Our original NSK bearings had exposed ball bearings...no seals on the sides.

6.  Hub Tamer needs a 7/8" socket and a 1" wrench to use.  It works well for this project.

7.  The old inner bearing is removed towards the engine.  The old outer bearing is removed towards the wheel.

8.  A small punch would be handy to have in order to puch out remnants of old corroded cotter pins from ball joints.

9.  DO YOURSELF A FAVOR...be sure to DRY FIT the new bearings onto your axle before you install the new bearings.  Our axle had been replaced years ago at a Subaru Dealership.  The new bearings could not slide past the axle portion just inside of the splines.  No idea why.  But we had to grind down the axle just a tiny bit there with emery cloth to get the inner races to fit over the axle.

10.  DO NOT FORGET to reinstall the bearing SPACER after installing your first new bearing....before installing the second new bearing.



#8 ShawnW

ShawnW

    Subaru Master Technician

  • Administrator
  • 12,955 posts
  • Denver, Colorado

Posted 11 July 2013 - 03:44 PM

Hi Shawn,  aren't these bearings pre-greased and pre-sealed?

Or is it some other seal you are talking about?

I would still put the seals in if the bearings allow for it.



#9 Gloyale

Gloyale

    It's a sickness

  • Members
  • 10,918 posts
  • Corvallis, OR PNW

Posted 11 July 2013 - 08:10 PM

9.  DO YOURSELF A FAVOR...be sure to DRY FIT the new bearings onto your axle before you install the new bearings.  Our axle had been replaced years ago at a Subaru Dealership.  The new bearings could not slide past the axle portion just inside of the splines.  No idea why.  But we had to grind down the axle just a tiny bit there with emery cloth to get the inner races to fit over the axle.

10.  DO NOT FORGET to reinstall the bearing SPACER after installing your first new bearing....before installing the second new bearing.

 

The axle is supposed to be a pressfit into the bearings.

 

You are supposed to either use a slide hammer attached to the end of the axle, or you can use a large washer, and the claws of 2 claw hammers to pry the axle through.  Also, the old bearing inner races can be used as spacers with the axle nut to pull them through.

 

Any way you do it, they are supposed to pull through tight, not just slip in and out.........so I hope your axles stay tight in the hubs and bearings.



#10 Free Range

Free Range

    Chicken or the egg, hmm?

  • Members
  • 215 posts
  • Missoula, MT

Posted 23 July 2013 - 12:14 AM

Yup, generally great advise here.

 

Just did a front end on an 83 wagon, its been a long time since I was in one of these old tanks, refreshingly simple. 

 

I was replacing everything, so I pulled the whole hub. Its fairly involved, but easy to knock out the axles, ball joints, tie rods, and pull the whole hub and do it on the bench, just tap the bearings out and new (with new grease) in slowly and dink from side to side to keep em square, only hitting the outter race of the bearing with the drift. but I was replacing everything else up front at the same time.  whatever works...

 

I always use new dust seals.

 

Be sure to clean everything well, some grease doesnt mix well with others.

 

Dealer has rebuild kits for $50 per side.

 

Be sure to remember the anti-sneeze going beck together.



#11 alaskaloyale

alaskaloyale

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 57 posts
  • Fairbanks Alaska

Posted 24 July 2013 - 02:46 AM

What comes in one of those dealer rebuild kits?



#12 Free Range

Free Range

    Chicken or the egg, hmm?

  • Members
  • 215 posts
  • Missoula, MT

Posted 02 August 2013 - 10:46 AM

dealer kit is both bearings and both dust seals for one hub rebuild.  (2 kits per car) 



#13 ebarb

ebarb

    Barbarossa

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 92 posts
  • Bois D Arc, MO

Posted 06 April 2018 - 09:09 PM

Another 82 wagon, but difficulty at a different step; replacing both bearings and axle. When re-assembling after pounding for 30 minutes I was able to get the first bearing up over the first raised area on my new axle, but it knocked out the outer bearing and the lubrication ring that sits in between. Pound as I may I can't seem to make it move any further. What approach or tool am I missing that could easily help reseat this? In the manual they show a special cylinder tool that looks like it screws onto the axle nut to press it in. Basically I need some way to force the axle back through the bearing. Gloyale mentions above a slide hammer. Could someone describe that part of the reinstall process a bit more please? Or tell me what quick and easy method I'm missing? Thanks. 

 

Eli



#14 DaveT

DaveT

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 3,811 posts
  • Colchester

Posted 06 April 2018 - 09:54 PM

The axle should not be that tight.  It should not be loose either, but pounding with bearings involved is not good.

 

I have always just used the axle nut with washers and spacers to pull the axle back through the bearings.



#15 ebarb

ebarb

    Barbarossa

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 92 posts
  • Bois D Arc, MO

Posted 07 April 2018 - 02:58 AM

Pounding performed thus far on performed on the cast metal and not applied directly to the bearing. 



#16 Gloyale

Gloyale

    It's a sickness

  • Members
  • 10,918 posts
  • Corvallis, OR PNW

Posted 07 April 2018 - 12:04 PM

you can use 2 claw hammers to pry the axle through the hub.

 

I used to do tough ones that way.  Now I use my slide hammer.

 

For reference, I took an old axle nut, and welded it to a nut that threads onto the 5lb slidehammer



#17 ebarb

ebarb

    Barbarossa

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 92 posts
  • Bois D Arc, MO

Posted 07 April 2018 - 12:13 PM

I picked up a few pieces of pipe thread from Home Depot that I think I'll be able to help pull the hub assembly on while threading the castle nut to the axle. The outer seal sticks out just above the edge so I'll take it off while reinstalling the whole thing. 

 

I see quite a few videos/articles about removing axles with a slide hammer. Assuming it takes applying force in the opposite direction to pull it through?

 

1-1/2" Floor flange then after pulled on far enough I'll mate it to a 1-1/2x1-1/4 hex bushing.

Cost 20$, but it may just get returned after I'm done. 

 

--update-- 

This ended up working great! If I had been able to get it started just a little bit further I could have used the outer wheel mounting assembly instead. 

axle_press_comealong0.jpg

axle_press_comealong1.jpg


Edited by ebarb, 07 April 2018 - 03:55 PM.


#18 DaveT

DaveT

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 3,811 posts
  • Colchester

Posted 07 April 2018 - 06:31 PM

You could also try the flange the other way around, so it presses against the inner race.  I've always had extra spacers [the ones from in between the inner races] from retired cars to use, so I can put the seals in before pulling the axle through.



#19 GeneralDisorder

GeneralDisorder

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 22,049 posts
  • Portland

Posted 08 April 2018 - 10:49 AM

All you really need is two flat head screwdrivers. Sheesh. Ain't no kill like overkill though.

GD




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users