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Early EJ22 Reseal Thread with Part Numbers


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9 replies to this topic

#1 Corvid

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 06:53 AM

I usually spend my time in the Older Gen section, but I'm getting ready for a new project. I'm about to reseal a junkyard EJ22 from a '94 Legacy auto with 105K on the clock, and drop it in a '94 Legacy manual, so I've been reading and cross-referencing all the advice and reseal threads on here in preparation.

 

Here's my factory shopping list, via my '90 Legact Factory Parts Manual and part number updates from 1stsubaruparts.com:

 

11831 AA210 Oil Separator Plate
8004 06140 x5 New Model Plate Bolts
8004 06150 Special New Model Plate Bolt
8069 31070 Wrist Pin Service Hole O-ring 31x2
8069 46030 x2 Cam O-rings 46.5x2
8067 32150 x2 Cam Seals 32x45x8
13271 AA051 x6 Valve Cover Bolt Washers
13294 AA012 x2 Valve Cover Gaskets
8069 23060 Oil Filler Neck O-ring 23.7x3.5
8069 17080 Oil Pickup O-ring 17.8x2.4
8069 10170 x2 Dipstick O-rings 10x2
8069 19050 Oil Pump O-ring 19.2x2.4
8067 33030 Front Crank Seal 33x49x8
21200 AA072 Thermostat
21236 AA010 Thermostat Gasket
8092 18270 V-Belt 18x6x877
44011 AC030 x2 Exhaust Gaskets

 

 

Here's my aftermarket shopping list, via Rockauto.com:

 

Water Pump Aisin #WPF002
Radiator Upper Hose Goodyear #62445
Radiator Lower Hose Gates #21852
Timing Kit Gates #TCK254
Clutch Kit Exedy #15010
Air Filter Denso #1432057
PCV Valve Beck/Arnley #0450031
Spark Plug Wires NGK #FX31


 

NGK spark plugs and a bypass hose, I'll pickup locally.

If the flywheel isn't beautiful, I'll have it resurfaced.

 

I've read that NGK spark plug wires are good enough to use without problems, unlike most aftermarket wires. Arguments?

 

I've read that the hydraulic tensioner piston cylinder device should just be compressed and reused. Arguments?

 

I see different part numbers for fuel injectors and ignition coils for manual and automatic cars, but I can't find any threads on here where they have caused problems for people. How are they different? Are there any problems interchanging them?

 

No need to suggest Ultra Grey RTV, I prefer anaerobic.

 

Is there anything else I'm not seeing? Anything that's missing from my list?



#2 heartless

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 08:10 AM

I am running the NGK wires on my 90 Legacy with no problems - not sure how well they work on the newer stuff (96+), but they work fine on the 1st gen 2.2

 

on the tensioner - first, check it for being worn out - if you can push in the piston (as in pushing it against a fixed object with a bit of body weight behind it) if it moves it needs to be replaced.

 

if it does not move, use a vise and compress it s-l-o-w-l-y! do NOT rush this part! you will damage it if you do. small turn of the vise handle - just a little tension (between 1/8 & 1/4 turn of the handle), let it sit for 3-5 mins, small turn of vise handle, let sit - repeat until you can insert a pin thru the holes (get the holes more or less in line before compressing - one hole on either side of the body & one thru the piston shaft) to keep it compressed until after installation - a small allen wrench is commonly used for this.

 

to save a few dollars, there are complete timing kits available through eBay from several sellers - a lot of the guys like "the import experts" for timing kits. I have used "mizumo auto" kits with no issues on the old GL 1.8s and 1st gen Legacy 2.2s - in fact, just ordered another 2.2 kit from them for a similar job as you are doing, complete with all pulleys, seals, water pump & gaskets, and tensioner. Cost was under $175 shipped to my door.

 

They also have complete engine gasket sets with all of the gaskets, seals, and o-rings you could possibly need, including the little grommets for the cam case covers.  Cost is around $50 for the complete set and has everything you will need and then some.

 

have you looked at the oil separator plate on your engine? if it is plastic, then yes, order the metal one. But, it may already be a metal one and only needs to be resealed. I know for sure the 90 & 91 model years had the metal plates - check before spending the money unnecessarily.

 

injectors - I personally dont know of any running issues between auto & manual swaps - but the injectors "should" all match (be of the same type) they are not typically "mix & match" compatible. I think the differences are in flow rates - but not sure exactly. Try a search for "fuel injector" and see what you can find out.

 

Only other thing I can suggest is new vacuum lines throughout - even tho they may "look" ok, they are old and most likely dry & brittle - even a little bump can cause cracks that may go visually unnoticed but can cause all sorts of strange running issues later.



#3 johnceggleston

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 08:30 AM

depending on price, use subaru wires. they run about $40. not sure about NGK.

ditto the above on ''the import experts'', they will sell you a kit w/ belt, all idlers and water pump for about $135 shipped.

i agree the seals should be fr4om subaru.
and the oil pump and cam cap o-rings.
.
but i might buy decent quality o-rings for the dip stick locally.

no mention of intake gasket.
i use good quality intake / exhaust gaskets from rock auto.
no need for subaru, but avoid el cheapo.


same with ''gasket kits'' from ebay.
the last one i bought , $35, did not last long.
i don't recommend them.

no mention of coolant cross over pipe o-rings, 2 each.

i have never replaced the oil pick up o-ring.
or pulled an oil pan just to reseal it.
the oil pan seal usually lasts the life of the car.
but no biggie either way.

Edited by johnceggleston, 26 June 2013 - 08:33 AM.


#4 Fairtax4me

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 10:16 AM

I've resealed several oil pans on my cars and I felt it was well worth it. However, you will need Ultra grey or similar (threebond) sealer for the oil pan. The sealing surface is not flat enough to use anaerobic.

The early ej22 doesn't necessarily need NGK or Subaru plug wires. They run just fine with a set of decent quality wires, such as from Napa or Federated. I think I paid about $20 for the last set I bought from Federated (about 3 years ago) and they've been great. I think they were made by Standard Ignition Products.

Fuel injectors are an either/Or deal. Either will work just fine and the only difference I can tell between any of them is the color of the tops. I'm sure the flow rates differ slightly or the nozzles have some minor difference but the ECU can adjust to make either type work.
There were differences in the very early style injectors but those shouldn't be on a 94 engine IIRC.

http://item.mobilewe...Id=260925109309
This timing belt kit will save you a few $$ over the gates kit and comes with the Aisin water pump, factoy style rubber coated metal water pump gasket, and brown front crank and cam seals.

#5 Corvid

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 12:00 PM

I've resealed several oil pans on my cars and I felt it was well worth it. However, you will need Ultra grey or similar (threebond) sealer for the oil pan. The sealing surface is not flat enough to use anaerobic.

Fuel injectors are an either/Or deal. Either will work just fine and the only difference I can tell between any of them is the color of the tops. I'm sure the flow rates differ slightly or the nozzles have some minor difference but the ECU can adjust to make either type work. There were differences in the very early style injectors but those shouldn't be on a 94 engine IIRC.

http://item.mobilewe...Id=260925109309
This timing belt kit will save you a few $$ over the gates kit and comes with the Aisin water pump, factoy style rubber coated metal water pump gasket, and brown front crank and cam seals.

 

Ok, I'll look into the oil pan sealing more before I make a final call. That's kind of what I was curious about with the injectors. This is the first FI car I've really dug into, so its good to hear that the computer is smart enough to take up the slack in that case. Thanks for that link, at first it didn't seem worth the effort of ordering from a 3rd online location, but it does save just over $20 from the bill.

 

no mention of intake gasket.
i use good quality intake / exhaust gaskets from rock auto.
no need for subaru, but avoid el cheapo.

no mention of coolant cross over pipe o-rings, 2 each.

i have never replaced the oil pick up o-ring.
or pulled an oil pan just to reseal it.
the oil pan seal usually lasts the life of the car.
but no biggie either way.

 

If the injectors, coil, etc. were compatible, I was hoping to not take the intake apart or remove it. Will I have to anyway?

8069 33010 x2 Coolant Crossover Pipe O-rings 33.7x3.5. Good call, I don't like having rubber parts of different ages in the cooling system.

I want to pull the oil pan in part to divine the future by examining whats inside.

 

I am running the NGK wires on my 90 Legacy with no problems - not sure how well they work on the newer stuff (96+), but they work fine on the 1st gen 2.2

 

on the tensioner - first, check it for being worn out - if you can push in the piston (as in pushing it against a fixed object with a bit of body weight behind it) if it moves it needs to be replaced.

 

if it does not move, use a vise and compress it s-l-o-w-l-y! do NOT rush this part! you will damage it if you do. small turn of the vise handle - just a little tension (between 1/8 & 1/4 turn of the handle), let it sit for 3-5 mins, small turn of vise handle, let sit - repeat until you can insert a pin thru the holes (get the holes more or less in line before compressing - one hole on either side of the body & one thru the piston shaft) to keep it compressed until after installation - a small allen wrench is commonly used for this.

 

Only other thing I can suggest is new vacuum lines throughout - even tho they may "look" ok, they are old and most likely dry & brittle - even a little bump can cause cracks that may go visually unnoticed but can cause all sorts of strange running issues later.

 

Good to hear multiple people echoing that the NGK spark plugs are fine. Solid advice on the tensioner piston, I appreciate that and will investigate that today or tomorrow. I totally didn't say anything about vac lines, and I also keep new vac line spooled up by the yard in my garage. I went over and replaced every single hose in a stock EA82 setup 4 months ago. Good vac lines are important, so I'm glad you said it out loud.



#6 rxleone

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 07:59 PM

Sorry to hijack the thread, but what are the quality of the Mizumoauto rocker covers/bolt seals like? I'm getting swindled at Subaru here for them, they want twenty-something dollars for each gasket and $6 for each bolt seal, if they're any good I'd rather order the whole kit just for those parts.



#7 Fairtax4me

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 09:10 PM

Order a set of Felpro permadry valve cover gaskets. They come with the bolt grommets and are good quality. Only cost about $25 for the set depending on where you get them. Rockauto lists the set for $22. The set does both sides.

#8 heartless

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Posted 27 June 2013 - 07:44 AM

Sorry to hijack the thread, but what are the quality of the Mizumoauto rocker covers/bolt seals like? I'm getting swindled at Subaru here for them, they want twenty-something dollars for each gasket and $6 for each bolt seal, if they're any good I'd rather order the whole kit just for those parts.

 

If all you need is the valve/cam cover set, then do what fairtax4me suggests, and get just what you need. Rockauto is a decent palce to deal with.

 

the gasket sets I was referring to are complete engine rebuild sets with every gasket, seal, o-ring, etc., needed for a complete engine rebuild.

As for quality - they are decent - maybe not top quality, but not junk either. about the only thing in the set that I probably wouldnt use would be the headgaskets - but since the 2.2s are not prone to the HG issues, it hasnt been a problem/issue.



#9 Corvid

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Posted 27 June 2013 - 12:31 PM

Alright, so I placed my order late last night, the revised list end up like this, for anyone else looking to do the same...

 

From 1stsubaruparts.com:

11831 AA210 Baffle Plate
8004 06140 x5 Battle Plate Bolts
8004 06150 Special Baffle Plate Bolt
8069 31070 Service O-ring 31x2
8069 46030 x2 Cam O-rings 46.5x2
8067 32150 x2 Cam Seals 32x45x8
8069 23060 Fill Neck O-ring 23.7x3.5
8069 17080 Pickup O-ring 17.8x2.4
8069 10170 x2 Dipstick O-rings 10x2
8069 19050 Oil Pump O-ring 19.2x2.4
8067 33030 Front Seal 33x49x8
21200 AA072 Thermostat
21236 AA010 Thermo Gasket
8092 18270 V-Belt 18x6x877
44011 AC030 x2 Exhaust Gaskets

Total with shipping and sales tax was about $130

 

From rockauto.com, using a discount code from retailmenot.com:

Radiator Upper Hose Goodyear #62445
Radiator Lower Hose Gates #21852
Air Filter Denso #1432057
PCV Valve Beck/Arnley #0450031
Spark Plug Wires NGK #FX31
Valve Cover Gasket Set Felpro Permadry #VS50395R
Intake Manifold Gasket Set Felpro #MS94987

Total with shipping was about $100

 

From Ebay:

Timing belt kit with Aisin water pump from mizumoauto - $136

Exedy Clutch kit #15010 - $140

 

Total so far is a touch over $500 in overhaul parts, but by getting non-picky items from rockauto and ebay, I did save almost $70.

I still need fluids, oil and fuel filters, spark plugs, vacuum hose, and small coolant hoses.

I also realize now that I forgot to order 2 of the 8069 33010 Coolant Crossover Pipe O-ring 33.7x3.5, so I'll have to stop by the dealership counter and buy them in person.

 

Thanks for the input so far, I'll be posting questions and progress in here in the weeks to come.


Edited by Corvid, 27 June 2013 - 12:31 PM.


#10 Corvid

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Posted 02 August 2013 - 11:25 PM

Well, I'm home with a sprained neck tonight, so I thought I would give a report back on this project. The engine fired up inside its new host car a week ago, and is currently on a large roadtrip, so I'll have a final report when it gets back, but so far it is behaving well.

 

The clean up and reseal was pretty straight forward, only a couple little points to share.

 

Someone had already had the oil pan off, and resealed it with Grey RTV. Inside edge of oil pan was covered in flappy little bits of loose RTV crumbs, and there was a decent amount caught in the screen of the oil pickup tube. Got rid of all that, and resealed with anaerobic. Last I heard, not a drop of oil anywhere.

 

One of the very last things I did was change the spark plugs, and I almost had a meltdown because I thought the stuck spark plugs were cross-threaded, and I envisioned having to tear the whole thing down for helicoils in the head after all that work. So I took a break and read threads on here, and found that its pretty common for old plugs to feel like they are going to rip the threads out. I liked the technique of hosing them down with Breakfree and working them back and forth, 1/2 turn out, 1/4 turn back in, repeat slowly. The first spark plug took 10 minutes to ease out, no joking. No stripped threads! Thanks USMB!

 

I went thru and labeled everything I unplugged on the way out, pulled the bad engine, dropped the new one in, and hooked everything up as before. Hit the key and it cranked but wouldn't fire up. I triple checked everything and couldn't find anything wrong, so I took a break and got a drink, and read threads on here. Turns out I somehow switched the fuel lines, like a dozen other people had on here. Corrected that, and hit the switch. VROOOOM. and clack-clack-clack. Luckily, I had already read about that, so I laughed, and in 20 minutes, the HLAs silenced themselves, like clockwork. Thanks USMB!

 

It took a while to purge all the air from the coolant system, but I got it done, and now the engine runs cool, pulls hard, and doesn't leak a drop of anything.

1994 Legacy Wagon, resurrected.

 

So as I enjoy my success, I wanted to thank the folks on here who help out and share their experience freely. It makes all the difference.






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