juankyx206 Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 my 1986 loyale 4wd turbo, is just cranking but not starting, i just check up the ligth and I read code 12 " starter switch off position "... do you have an idea where is located? please, any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 I would check for other issues.....the code 12 is ussually a "ghost code" that will show always with engine cranking but not starting. Code 11 and 13 are common too. Check your distributor rotor for being tight, and that it spins when engine cranked over (verify timing belt). Then check for fuel pressure to the rail, and pulse of the injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Probably a bogus code... well, maybe useless is more accurate. "No start" conditions are notorious for their unhelpful codes. Check to see if your distrib-rotor's set screw has backed out (I a assuming a particular type of distrib, one with a screw-down distrib-cap). Actually grab the rotor and see if it can be turned or pulled off. If this is not your problem, disable your ignition electronics (disconnect the distrib connector, and crank the engine over, watch ing to see if the rotor turns. If it does not, then your distributor-side timing belt is broken. If it does, remove the rubber plug covering the holes in the non-distrib-side belt cover, and check if that belt is snapped. If all else is good, try using a spritz of starting fluid to see if it is fuel related. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juankyx206 Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 the rotor, looks ok, it's moving when is cranking, and the spark plug wires are like a month old ( i pull a wire out, and has spark), and the car has a good fuel presure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 If all else is good, try using a spritz of starting fluid to see if it is fuel related. Good luck. Disconnect the intake tube from the MAF to do this. DO NOT spray through the MAF, DO NOT leave it hooked up and spray though a PCV line. Disconnect it from the MAF and shoot it straight down the tube. A backfire can destroy the MAF if you leave it connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Check power 12v to Injectors with Key on/eng off. Pulsing while cranking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juankyx206 Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 today, also i check the timing and is on the mark, on the flywheel center marks, and the rotor is pointing at number 1 in the distributior, with the 10 mark point of the flywheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juankyx206 Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 so if this code 12, goes together with 11 and 13, this Crankshaft Position Sensor, should be replaced, in order to use the loyale? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 (edited) Timing is correct and the plugs are firing means to me you have a fuel problem. Check for a blown fuse and check to see if the fuel pump under the RR wheel is working. Edited July 5, 2013 by john in KY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 so if this code 12, goes together with 11 and 13, thisCrankshaft Position Sensor, should be replaced, in order to use the loyale? Those all happen during a no start condition. The Crank and Cam sensor are really the same thing an ea82....part of the distributor. Check your injectors for 12v with key on. And check that a test light hooked to it pulses during cranking. Seriously. The computer is not going to tell you wahts wrong you have to find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj421 Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Timing is correct and the plugs are firing means to me you have a fuel problem. Check for a blown fuse and check to see if the fuel pump under the RR wheel is working. I agree to check for a blown fuse. Whenever I have a crank (but no start) condition, I always check the "HAZARD - HORN" fuse under the dash. For some reason, if that's blown, it won't start. I especially had a bunch of problems with this when I had aftermarket horns installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 my 1986 loyale 4wd turbo, is just cranking but not starting, i just check up the ligth and I read code 12 " starter switch off position "... do you have an idea where is located? please, any ideas? The starter switch is the starter solenoid. Code 12 means the computer has not seen 12 volts on the B/W? wire,and did not know it was supposed to be in start mode. Are you sure it was not code 11? 11 is normal on a no start. Your 86 EA-82T does not have a crankshaft position sensor like later ones. Fuel pressure is good,but how good? psi?Plugs wet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juankyx206 Posted July 5, 2013 Author Share Posted July 5, 2013 (edited) this problems start when I change the pcv because the old one was leaking oil to the intake, also I replace the air filter, but everything was put back in place, even every little vacuum hose, today when I rechecked the car has spark but looks like is little weak, and the smell of the gasoline fill the air, so looks like I´m having a wet spark o a bad coil.... thanks for your help king regards from CHILE :wacko: :D :wacko: Edited July 5, 2013 by juankyx206 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leniac Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 (edited) this problems start when I change the pcv because the old one was leaking oil to the intake, also I replace the air filter, but everything was put back in place, even every little vacuum hose, today when I rechecked the car has spark but looks like is little weak, and the smell of the gasoline fill the air, so looks like I´m having a wet spark o a bad coil.... thanks for your help king regards from CHILE :wacko: :D :wacko: ve si no pasaste a llevar algo con el filtro de bencina.... o la conexion con el flujometro.... esos cables con la edad que tienen ya estan medios resquebrajados... puede ser tambien los cables de bujias y el cable que va del distribuidor a la parte derecha... no se como se llama xD Edited July 5, 2013 by leniac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 The starter switch is the starter solenoid. Code 12 means the computer has not seen 12 volts on the B/W? wire,and did not know it was supposed to be in start mode. The code means "continuisly in the "on" or "off" positions. If you are cranking for many seconds, and the Ig. is sparking, the computer goes ...."wait.....I'm making spark and should be running, but the starter switch is still cranking" Throws code for starter switch. Old electronics have dumb logic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 The code means "continuisly in the "on" or "off" positions. If you are cranking for many seconds, and the Ig. is sparking, the computer goes ...."wait.....I'm making spark and should be running, but the starter switch is still cranking" Throws code for starter switch. Old electronics have dumb logic. Good description of code 13,not 12. 12 is starter switch never on. 13 is starter switch always on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 this problems start when I change the pcv because the old one was leaking oil to the intake, also I replace the air filter, but everything was put back in place, even every little vacuum hose, today when I rechecked the car has spark but looks like is little weak, and the smell of the gasoline fill the air, so looks like I´m having a wet spark o a bad coil.... thanks for your help king regards from CHILE :wacko: :D :wacko: I would reinstall the old PCV.Seems the NEW one is faulty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 Are you by chance using a pushbutton for Starter? If you are, and you did not reconnect the original starter wire to the new one, then the computer is not seeing voltage during cranking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 your 86 should have a vane or "flapper style" maf if its faulty it will not start. theres basicly a door that opens with the airflow. unplug the maf and see if it will start. it will show a maf code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch de la Brat Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 (edited) Necro-posting here, but did we ever find a solution? My 86 XT Turbo is giving me a nasty "I'll start and run when I want to" attitude. I've gone over my codes and I have code 33 (coolant sensor, known about it for a while) as a live code intermittently and code 35 (EGR Solenoid) in memory. Upon it's non-start issue I got the lovely code 11, but never otherwise. I wiggled my ECU cables (ECU has been replaced once before with a JY unit by PO) while running and I got it to sputter twice, but when it decided shut off I couldn't get it to give me even a sign of life. Mind you it had been running trouble free for over 10 minutes this drive and over an hour straight on a previous drive. Its not mechanical as it has happened in the rain, in the heat, and in the freezing cold, no consistency. After seeing code 11 I wanted to look at the disty to see if the pickup is operating properly, but I was unable to as it was dark, raining and I was already pissed off at it. Fuel pump just got replaced and it cycles, as well as the relay, every time I hit the starter. Cranks over with vigor, but no RPM change on the tach when no fire, but when it fires or tries to fire it shows 250rpm with the starter engaged. Faulty cam/crank/pickup in the disty? Failing wire somewhere? Any suggestions? Twitch Edited March 21, 2016 by Twitch de la Brat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 A faulty CTS can cause all sorts of starting issues. Fix that, and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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