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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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EJ22T after swap problems. Fuel cut at 3 to 5 lbs of boost.


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103 replies to this topic

#26 Steve W.

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Posted 20 July 2013 - 08:58 AM

   Good call.  I hadn't even thot' about old grounds.  I had already tapped into the old ecu plugs for veh. spd.- cel. etc., but they didn't seem to be working, maybe grounding will make them operable.  I don't think this mid 80s dual range has a neut. switch, but i'll ck. it out.  Can I power or ground the tranny ecu lead and get the same results?  I picked up a resister from a 1st gen Legy auto trans. on Thur., to try to fool the ecu at the boost controller lead, but it seems to have the same resistance as the others i've got.  I'm gonna' hook it up and see what it does.  Thanks, Gloyale,  S.



#27 Gloyale

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Posted 20 July 2013 - 10:46 AM

If the dual range came from a SPFI car it will have a nuetral switch.  It would be fairly low on the tailsection, drivers side, about 2 inches back from the seam where the tailsection joins the front cases.

 

There should not be a tranny ECU??? (TCU, unless this was a 4eat car originally)

 

What exact model is the car?  What was the OE engine/trans?

I can look up all the exact wires to ground at the engine connector.  I think you need to do that for the VSS, as it's reed switch opens and closes continuity to ground to make it's signal.  Tach, and Nuetral switch may need those grounds too.....not sure with the digi.



#28 Gloyale

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Posted 20 July 2013 - 10:57 AM

Provide ground to the Black/yellow, Black/red, and Black wires at each of the OE engine connectors.

 

 

Also, does your boost switch have a ground to connect to when it closes? 



#29 Steve W.

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Posted 20 July 2013 - 11:57 AM

 Good morning.    The D/R is from a throt. body inj. car, I'll go look for a nuet. switch.  Sorry, I meant the tranny neut. lead from the EJ ecu., if I don't have a neut. sw., thot maybe I could fool the ecu by powering or grounding.  The cars an 88 GL10T, and was a full time 5 spd., w/ ctr diff. lock, 3:70, ( which I'm plannin' to sell, BTW).  The boost solenoid does have a grnd. wire, and I'm headin' out now to try wiring in the resister as per Josh's suggestion.  And grounding the old ecu leads as you've recommended.  It looks like i'm gonna have to tear into the digi-dash unit, and add a resister to get the tach to work, sometime down the road.  Again, I really do appreciate your badly needed guidance.  I keep thinkin' I'm close,  Steve.



#30 Gloyale

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Posted 20 July 2013 - 12:11 PM

 Good morning.    The D/R is from a throt. body inj. car, I'll go look for a nuet. switch.  Sorry, I meant the tranny neut. lead from the EJ ecu., if I don't have a neut. sw., thot maybe I could fool the ecu by powering or grounding.  The cars an 88 GL10T, and was a full time 5 spd., w/ ctr diff. lock, 3:70, ( which I'm plannin' to sell, BTW).  The boost solenoid does have a grnd. wire, and I'm headin' out now to try wiring in the resister as per Josh's suggestion.  And grounding the old ecu leads as you've recommended.  It looks like i'm gonna have to tear into the digi-dash unit, and add a resister to get the tach to work, sometime down the road.  Again, I really do appreciate your badly needed guidance.  I keep thinkin' I'm close,  Steve.

 

You should be able to hook the Neutral switch up to the stock trans wiring in the car.  It may even plug right in?

 

At any rate, leaving it ungrounded would tell the car it's in gear all the time....which could mess with idling.  Or if you ground it, it would tell the ECU the car is in neutral all the time.....might drive fine, but eventually the ECU will see no change on that wire and throw code.



#31 Steve W.

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Posted 20 July 2013 - 09:42 PM

  Hey, Gloyale.  So, I chased down the trany switches, the one your talkin' about, 2" back of the case split is hooked up,  w/ a white 4 wire connector,  blk/wht--blu/red--grn--blk, two of which run up to a sw. on top of the transfer case, (lo range?)   I found a matching wire cluster under the dash, w/ a wht. connector (not connected).  One more switch, not connected, just ahead of the ext. housing and in line w/ the main shift rod. It has a blk.- round- 2 wire female connector.  Now, there's the exact same connector, also female, hanging from the trans. wiring loom below the fire wall.  Maybe with the rite male plug, those could be connected.  Another hanging connector, rnd.- blk.-fem. has a grey shielded, single white wire.  I cut out all the grnds. from the old ecu plugs, blk.- blk/red- blk/yel,  9 total.  I soldered them all together with a heaver blk. wire, and hauled 'em over to a good body grnd.  Now when I hook up the tach lead from the ecu, to the digi-dash lead, I get a full scale tach lite up.  More than I had before.  Still haven't been able to get the cel to lite up. I'll work on that tomorrow.  I got the resister tied into the waste gate circuit, not sure if that had any affect or not.  Still plugin', he-he.  Thanks, S.



#32 Steve W.

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 10:06 AM

  Hi. guys.  Well, that's it,  the one mounted in line with the shift rod is a detent switch.  Ran a continuity ck. and it does make and brake with the shift lever.  Now, how to hook it up.  I looked at the trany that came out of this car,  it has factory plugs in place of the switches on the drivers side, and one sw. on the side of the transfer case, pass. side,(ctr. diff. lock.)  It doesn't look like the original wiring had a neut. sw.  So, do I run one leg of the neut. sw. to grnd., and the other to the ecu lead?  That's my guess.  Onward and upward.  S.



#33 Gloyale

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 10:41 AM

  Hey, Gloyale.  So, I chased down the trany switches, the one your talkin' about, 2" back of the case split is hooked up,  w/ a white 4 wire connector,  blk/wht--blu/red--grn--blk, two of which run up to a sw. on top of the transfer case, (lo range?)   I found a matching wire cluster under the dash, w/ a wht. connector (not connected).
 

The one at the top of the transfer section on the back is the 4wd light.  Hook this up to the existing wiring it will light the "DIFF LOCK" light in the dash.

 

The other is the Reverse lights

 

 

One

more switch, not connected, just ahead of the ext. housing and in line w/ the main shift rod. It has a blk.- round- 2 wire female connector. 

  this one sounds like the nuetral......in line with the shift selector rod?  You should be able to hook all these up using the intermediate wiring off the old trans to plug into the switches, then plug that into the car.


The last one hanging with one shielded wire is probably the old O2 sensor wire.

 

 

And there is one Black/Red wire which does not need not be in that ground bundle you made.  It's a Black//red at pin 13 of the male connector.  Originally went to the TPS, so with no TPS or ECU at either end it really doesn't matter just clarifying.


Edited by Gloyale, 21 July 2013 - 10:51 AM.


#34 Legacy777

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 01:19 PM

You could swap in the newer style electronic speed sensor into the transmission and run that to the ECU to get a speed signal, but then you'd lose the speedo cable going to the cluster.

 

As for the idle switch, it needs to be adjusted on the TPS.  Follow these instructions:

 

http://www.main.expe...PS_testing3.jpg

 

Here are the rest of the scans if you want them

 

http://www.main.expe...PS_testing1.jpg

http://www.main.expe...PS_testing2.jpg



#35 Steve W.

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 02:02 PM

  Hi. fellas.  Thanks.  I've had the FWD switch hooked to the dif. lock lite.  I'll try extending the neut. switch wires up to the old loom, and see how that works.  I'll bet your rite on the old O2 sens. plug.  I'll try adjusting the TPS, and see what that does.  Thanks for the scans. Josh.  Thank you both.  I'll go get back on it.  Steve.



#36 Gloyale

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 02:14 PM

You could swap in the newer style electronic speed sensor into the transmission and run that to the ECU to get a speed signal, but then you'd lose the speedo cable going to the cluster.

As for the idle switch, it needs to be adjusted on the TPS. Follow these instructions:

http://www.main.expe...PS_testing3.jpg

Here are the rest of the scans if you want them

http://www.main.expe...PS_testing1.jpg
http://www.main.expe...PS_testing2.jpg



The electronic speed sensors still send that signal up to the dash, and then the dash transmits the pulse to the ECU. I'm not sure you could hook the vss directly to the ECU?

#37 Steve W.

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 08:18 PM

  Well, I got the neut. sw. wires extended and hooked to the EA loom.  Not sure where to tap in, to take it to the EJ ecu. Haven't been very successful with my connections at the old ecu plug wires, it appears it was my EA ecu grounding program that has caused the full scale tach. lite up. I've disconnected all my other tach. hookups and it still lites when ign. is on, so maybe tach. feed is thru grounding?   Is it better to tap this stuff closer to the inst. panel?   Nearing total burn out here boys.  Sorry.   I've got work lined up this week, and my back up vehicle is my Gimmy pkup. with a 454, (thirsty.)  I'll get back on it in the morn. & see what I can figure out.  Anyway,  thanks a bunch guys, really.  Steve.



#38 Legacy777

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Posted 22 July 2013 - 12:16 PM

The electronic speed sensors still send that signal up to the dash, and then the dash transmits the pulse to the ECU. I'm not sure you could hook the vss directly to the ECU?

 

Ok, I've had limited exposure to the electronic speed sensors on the stock Subaru setup.  I am running the electronic speed sensor output from my 6spd directly to my stand alone ECU and it works fine.  It should work to run the VSS directly to the ECU.  The calibration may not be correct, but it really doesn't matter that much, as long as it's in the ball park, the ECU will be happy.



#39 WoodsWagon

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 12:32 AM

It depends on the VSS. If it's a two wire one it needs to go through the cluster because it produces a sine wave signal that the speedo head converts into a square wave for the computer. The cable speedo cars had a magnet and a reed switch in the head to generate the square wave signal. Later cars had a 3 wire VSS which may have a powered hall effect switch in them that could possibly be connected straight to the ECU.



#40 Legacy777

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 12:02 PM

Ok, thanks for the feedback, that's good to know!  The sensor in my 6spd is the 3 wire VSS.



#41 Steve W.

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 01:13 PM

   Hi. Y'all.  Well, I'm back on to thank you guys again for all your wonderful guidance,  and say,  Yaaaa  Hoooo, or  Eeee  Haaa, or what ever.  I loaded my little red wagon full of tools this morn. and headed for work,  w/o thinkin' about it, I got on it a little and it shot rite past fuel cut and made 7lbs. w/o hesitation.  Still goes rich under deceleration, but I'll work on that.  I'm sure I'll need to bug you some more, but I'm hopin' to iron more of the wrinkles out tomorrow.   I'm a much relieved and happy camper, just when I was beginning to loose faith. Headin' back to work now, and under boost. Thanks again folks,  Steve.



#42 Legacy777

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Posted 24 July 2013 - 12:02 PM

Steve,

 

Glad to hear you're making progress!



#43 Steve W.

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Posted 24 July 2013 - 10:50 PM

  Thanks Josh.  You all have been barrel of help.  I'm a long ways from the finish line, but on the rite path.  Thanks to you all.  S.



#44 ivans imports

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Posted 25 July 2013 - 10:29 AM

so what is the fianal boost preshure ?



#45 Steve W.

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Posted 25 July 2013 - 08:41 PM

   Well, I had turn the boost down to control the fuel cut, 3 lbs. or so, but now that I'm able to open the throt. plate a bit, it jumped rite to 7psi.  Think I'll leave it there till I get some of these problems cured.  Prob'ly don't need more, been waitin' till I have it lined up down the street & rollin' before I hit it.  Keeps trying to lite up the R. front, even at low rpms.  Don't know how long this trany will hold up,  hate to give up my D/R,  I use low range a lot in the hills here.  Maybe a 4:11 or 4:44 auto, w/ matching LSD rear.  Still ecu issues, drove it to Santa Fe today to work, the wide band shows the AFRs working backwards.  Hi. vacume, like deceleration, drops to the 10s,  lite throt. and it runs into the 18s,  normal load it settles into the 15s - 16s, seldom finds stoich.  Now it wants to idle in the 10s,  throt. switch?  I'm gonna get back on it in the morn., see what kinda' codes it throws.  Thanks Ivan.  S



#46 Legacy777

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 06:02 PM

Yeah, it sounds like something is not right from what you described about the AFR's.  It definitely shouldn't do that.

 

I don't think the idle switch would cause that.  Let us know what codes are there.



#47 Steve W.

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 09:25 PM

   Hi Josh. Thanks, I expect this will be totally confusing.  Well, I worked on it again today.  I have 3 different TPSs, and none meet book specs.  I ran the resistance test on the switches themselves, between 2 & 3,  should be 12 kilo-ohms, I get 10.3.  Between 2 & 4,  should be 12 k-o. throt. closed, I get 9.2, -- throt. open should be 3-5, I get 1.8.  Resistance between tps. connector & grd., , should be 1 mega-ohm, I get 000.  Between connector & tps., terms. 1 2 3 should be, 2 4 3 ohms. I get 000.  So I checked continuity between tps. conn. and ecu conn. all's good.  Next, checked voltage at tps. conn. to grd.,  term. 2 should be .7 to 1.6V, throt. open, I get .18V,-- throt. closed.should be 4.4- 4.8V,  I have 9.5V.  #3 term. should be 5V., and I have 5V.  Term. 4, 0V.  Now here's the kicker,  Ign. sw. on, term. 1 has 10V,  increases to 11 plus @ full throt., should be 0, so I traced it back to the ecu., and it's the same @ pin B56-6.  I switched to the other ecu with the same results.  I cut the brn. idle sw. wire & it leaned out just a little, and idle raised a lot, but doesn't want to restart.  Drove it enough to warm up, idles in the 9s & 10s,  leans to around stoiech under load and runs nicely, but won't richen under boost.  Reconnecting idle sw. doesn't affect much but idle, and restart.   OK now, I ran the codes,  blk. leads throw a 31,--tps.  D- check throws a 33, still don't have hook up from EA wiring to EJ ecu., and a 51, same story.  Not sure where to go from here.  In over my ears?  Maybe.  Have to drive it to Santa Fe tomorrow for work, I'll just try not to let it idle, so as not to fowel the plugs.   S.



#48 ivans imports

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 09:18 AM

Remember the AF ratio reads backwards a lean signal ecu adds feul a ritch signal ecu reduces feul. anyway on my rig going from a turbo wire harness to a na harness gave me about 60 % more and no bs feul cuts boost cuts or crappy ecus i think those years of turbo harneses were poopy and gave greiff 92 na harness 5 speed seems to work best. Somthing with the map /boost senser / turbo wastegate controler they all worked togther well were supposed to anyway to complacated to tune



#49 Steve W.

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 09:40 PM

Ivan, don't want to do another loom very badly,  tho' I do have an n/a early first gen loom, that I stripped out for practice, just before I started on this one.  If I had the money, I'd spring for a Mega Squirt or something, but rite now I'm drivin' this thing for work, with the AFRs totally backwards.  Not sure what you mean, reads backwards, the wide band is giving the real ratio's, rite?  Power to the idle sw. isn't helping either, I'm running it disconnected now, runs much better,  but at 7000 ft. with it leaning out under boost, it seems not a good thing.  Coolant temps. start to rise as soon as it reaches this point, so I'm backin' out of it and going slower to avoid more serious issues.  I'm still working on it, but sorta' lost.  Thanks,  Steve.



#50 ivans imports

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Posted 30 July 2013 - 09:23 AM

Sorry is hard to explane the air ratio from the o2 sends signals to ecu so if its reading lean ratio its telling ecu to go ritch and if its reading a ritch ratio its telling ecu to go lean. The 02 sweeps back and forth. can you put a pic of the map senser / boost senser / turbo wastegaste controler setup on your rig mabee somthing hooked up wrong






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