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R12 to r124a


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17 replies to this topic

#1 91 subaru

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 10:21 PM

Anyone else used this. I have read about it some on here but there isnt to much info on it. What i wanna do is convert to r134. Is this all a guy would need to get to r134? Or would it be better to use some freeze 12 or r22?
http://m.oreillyauto...un_jtt_redirect

#2 BratRod

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 10:26 PM

Search your Craigslist for R-12. Thats what I do :)

#3 91 subaru

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 10:38 PM

Found a 50# bottle with 28# in it for 650 bucks!!

#4 BratRod

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 10:46 PM

...thats a lot.

#5 91 subaru

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 11:22 PM

Found more info around the net. Obviously you cant mix 12 and 134. Although some people some how can get away with mixing and not immediately destroying thier compressor. I read that with the conversion kit that you would need to pump and vac out the old refrigerant and replace with r134a and replace a few things here and there. Or if you can (legally) buy r12 then thats what you want to do. Since i dont have a license to legally buy r12 then the freeze 12 it is. Anyone else feel free to post your opinions

#6 AKghandi

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 11:52 PM

http://www.ebay.com/...p-/330924960923



#7 91 subaru

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 11:59 PM

http://www.ebay.com/...p-/330924960923


Nice find and fairly cheap

#8 szybura

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Posted 13 July 2013 - 08:54 AM

if you have to replace your compressor and receiver then I would flush the condersor and evap coils. there is a cleaning compound and pressurize tank to do this. The oils are not compatiable. If you do not need to replace anything then go with the R-12 whatever. The replacement r-12 and oil is getting hard to find. Keep in mind that the ac system is a closed system and if you are low on r-12 you have a leak someplace and will end up doing it all over again and the r-12 is only getting more expensive.

#9 Gloyale

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Posted 13 July 2013 - 09:22 AM

Open all fittings, blow out all tubes with compressed air, you want to get most of the oil out.

 

Remove the Compressor, flip it upside down and let it drain.

 

Remove and replace the reciever drier.

 

Replace all o-rings, perhaps skip the ones on the condensor up front, but definately @ the drier, evap core(firewall), and compressor.

 

 

NOW, here's the important part...........

 

Take it somewhere where they have a VACUUM type charging machine......not just a tank and manifold.  YOU have to evacuate the system.  A shop with the right machine will be able to add oil during this evacuation and charge process.  Fill with correct amount of oil, and charge with r-134

 

One thing to consider, the R-134 wont get the evap core quite cold enough to really cycle the compressor on/off via thermostat.  So the compressor will run pretty much all the time.  You will want to turn it off manually occasionally to give it a break.



#10 AWD J3wman

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Posted 13 July 2013 - 12:44 PM

cant you just turn on the car and put the ac on then take a screwdriver and push down the pin on the high side and blow all the r12 out then just pump in 134a?



#11 91 subaru

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Posted 13 July 2013 - 01:20 PM

Good info guys. I think what ill do is put in the freeze 12 since i have some and then see how it goes. If it leaks out or for whatever reason doesnt work then ill try Gloyales idea. Anyone have any experience flushing and recharging with r134 on thier own? Id like to get away from shop charges if at all possible;)

#12 Gloyale

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Posted 13 July 2013 - 02:36 PM

cant you just turn on the car and put the ac on then take a screwdriver and push down the pin on the high side and blow all the r12 out then just pump in 134a?

 

No.  The pump will be just compressing atmosphere or whatever else is in there.  You will get the excessive pressure blown out, but never evacuated.......there will still be atmospheric pressure inside.  The system will be full of air......mostly nitrogen, some CO2, so O2, and a bunch of moisture......none of which will work as refrigerant.

 

You may have mixed luck just blasting a charge in there and getting some cold to happen.  But without evacuating first, the effects will be short lived, and you will likely burn out the compressor.

 

Some things are just better to have done with the right tool.  A vacuum pump and a proper manifold at a minimum.  Most good A/C shops will have a machine that incorporates both, and will inject the oil too.



#13 MR_Loyale

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Posted 14 July 2013 - 12:27 AM

Harbor Freight has a vacuum pump and mainfold gauge set specifically for this. $170 for both. Prob won't get it done cheaper than that at a shop. If it ever needs redoing or any car AC, you will be set.

 

image_18961.jpg

 

http://www.harborfre...pump-98076.html

 

 

 

http://www.harborfre...-set-92649.html

 

 

image_21674.jpg


Edited by MR_Loyale, 14 July 2013 - 12:28 AM.


#14 MR_Loyale

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Posted 14 July 2013 - 12:48 AM

When I converted mine, I used a $44 Interdynamic kit (even came with a dvd) R12 to 34a kit from Walmart. Kit had the refrigerant with esther oil and stop leak. Only thing is you MUST evacuate the system using a vacuum pump. Just opening it up won't work. Vacuum pump will boil off any moisture. I did mine for an hour to be sure.

 

http://www.walmart.c...it-Kit/16888792

 

0004816802164_500X500.jpg


Edited by MR_Loyale, 14 July 2013 - 12:49 AM.


#15 91 subaru

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Posted 14 July 2013 - 01:45 AM

I have a can of freeze 12 im gonna run in it when i get a chance to put it in. If it has a leak or whatever then ill vac it out and use the kit. I have a buddy whose father inlaw is in the ac business. I can barrow the vac from him

#16 91 subaru

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Posted 22 July 2013 - 04:13 PM

Put in one can of freeze 12. A/c will freeze you out of the car. So far its been working great for two days. Hopefully it last

#17 moosens

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 01:41 AM

MR Loyale , for sure you're better off vacuuming out but I did the cheeseball method and am happy to say it works plenty good enough for getting through the dead of summer. But yes , I agree and will likely revamp my entire system soon since the clutch is aging on the compressor and the obvious need to extract the humidity. I do notice the slight smell and inaffectiveness at start up but as mentioned it's a $44 blessing right now.

 

So my message is if you're driving a car you're only expecting short life from or expecting to refurbish it you can get by cheap in this case. Kit is easy to work with. Granted I'm in New England not AZ but we're typically 80-90 degrees in the dead weeks and 90% humidity from end of June thru mid August or later.

 

Good luck everybody!



#18 grossgary

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 01:18 PM

MR Loyale , for sure you're better off vacuuming out but I did the cheeseball method and am happy to say it works plenty good enough for getting through the dead of summer. !

it works fine to simply install adapters, oil compatible for both - is it esther, i forget - and then charge it.  cheap, easy, and I've never seen it not work.  that's good enough for a 20+ year old car for me.  if the system isn't totally empty, disconnect some hoses and push compressed air through them.

 

disclaimer - all the HVAC pro's and sympathizers - the proper way regurgitated ad nauseum is all over the place, we know you should always pull a vacuum and do it all proper like or people will die. that being said, you don't need a vacuum pulled on a Subaru.  they are robust and failure is rare.

 

MGranted I'm in New England not AZ

i'd prefer the heat over the humidity, it's sad when 75 feels nasty






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