I was surprised when I found out the 95 is non-interference, but I know that if it breaks in the middle of a road trip I'll be paying hundreds for someone to do it, and I also know rubber parts become pretty brittle after 18 years.
I am actually planning on buying the Gates kit from Amazon, it's cheaper than Rockauto: http://www.amazon.co...=I2XFJP4TQF4SZF (it also helps that I have some Amazon gift card / rewards points etc)
comes with new tensioner, water pump, and belt marked with lines to help you line up the timing
Gift cards are a definite plus! hehe and yeah, that is not a bad price at all for the whole kit & a Gates kit to boot. (mental note - remember to look at amazon for the next time...)
But - does it include the oil seals?? I dont see any mention of those, and they really should be replaced while you are in there...4 seals: 2 cam, 1 crank, & 1 oil pump.
I personally have never had a problem with the paper type water pump gaskets, but, I do give them a thin coating of ultra grey to help hold them in place during installation - perhaps that is why?
for the heater hoses (that go to the heater core) unless they are showing obvious signs of leaking or damage, I would just let them be - but up to you...
another thing to look at will be vacuum lines - those definitely get hard & brittle with age/miles. there are a couple of small ones on the passenger side, behind & under the intake that are especially prone to this. Stock, off the roll vacuum line by the foot is fine for replacing these - have done it several times.
for future reference, here is the digital FSM for your year car: http://jdmfsm.info/A...Service Manual/
In all honesty, with a few common tools, a belt can be replaced in a matter of a couple of hours - the biggest issue with the EJs is compressing the hydraulic tensioner - this can feasibly be done with a large C clamp - and hang on to that little pin from your new tensioner!
I learned (the hard way) a long time ago to carry a toolbox with the necessities on longer road trips. Had the main crank bolt come loose on my 89 GL once while on vacation, and I had NO tools with me! Borrowed a cresent wrench to snug it up then went to the local Walmart & bought a Stanley socket set with the right size socket in it to tighten it more. Still have & use that set regularly today.
metric socket set w/ratchet - 3/8 drive - 10mm to 22mm - for almost everything
breaker bar w/22mm socket - 1/2 drive - for the main crank bolt (may possibly want a cheater bar/pipe along with this for extra leverage)
large screwdriver or prybar - to hold tranny flex plate (auto) while removing/installing crank bolt (manuals can be put in a higher gear & parking brakes applied in a pinch)
a good philips screwdriver
a large C clamp
a pin to hold the tensioner after compressing (can use a small allen wrench in a pinch - alternatively, if the old one is still in good condition, it can be compressed at home, pinned, and carried with you, eliminating the need for the C clamp)
a belt (a used one in good condition will work for an emergency - just make sure there are no cracks or other damage)
pliers (both regular & needlenose) - for the spring type hose clamps
I also throw in a can of PB Blaster (penetrating oil), a couple of rags, a roll of electrical tape, sidecutters, 3/8 extensions (couple of sizes) & a spark plug socket - just because...