I have a 1988 Dl with a single point fuel injection. it was sitting in someone's field for half a decade. I was trying to get it running. It runs now even with no tick. It will idle and rev when I am not going anywhere, but as soon as I start driving it will bog down. If I pump the gas it will get up and going again. I thought it was the tps sensor, but I have ruled that out by putting three of them on there. I have no idea what it might be. Any help will be appreciated. Also does anyone know how to reset the computer. I keep getting weird codes.
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88 Dl will idle wont drive
Posted 20 July 2013 - 12:52 PM
Could just be a cracked or disconnected PCV or IAC hose.
Could also be a weak fuel pump.
reset computer by pluggin toghether the green connectors and the white connectors under hte hood near wiper motor. Start engine and run it over 2K rpms for 40 secs. CEL will come on steady if clear......Will keep blinking codes if not. Disconnect after clearing.
Posted 20 July 2013 - 02:16 PM
Posted 20 July 2013 - 02:49 PM
Nuetral and purge won't affect running really.
I would still suspect an air leak somewhere or a fuel issue.
Posted 20 July 2013 - 03:31 PM
Posted 20 July 2013 - 03:59 PM
maf or rust in the conections....
Rust in which connection?
Posted 20 July 2013 - 06:32 PM
Posted 22 July 2013 - 01:52 PM
I second the hose concern voiced above. Five years is way longer than most hoses should go even WITH being driven, much less with no driving at all.
The vacuum lines on top of the engine can split and crack, and the primary symptom is weak/boggy action. If they are bad enough and/or in the right spot, it can even keep the car from starting. I would buy a few feet of each size (take one sample of each size in to your local parts store). Push for stuff off the spool, don't be afraid to ask for "generic/spool" lengths.
I say this because the parts store clerk will almost always ask for the make and model of the car, and then look lost when no 'vacuum hose' is listed on their screen. The hoses are not a subaru specific part--any hose of the correct inside diameter will work, and they DO have spools of each size in the back.
Hoses in hand, swap out on piece at a time. I mark the hoses on the motor BEFORE I start any work (white out works well) so I know which ones still need swapping after I am half-done and go inside for a water break.
Doing the hoses is cheap and simple, and will have to be done in the next six months ANYWAY; and will most likely fix your problem to boot. Kill two birds with one stone
Posted 22 July 2013 - 02:03 PM
And if there are still issues, then we can address the fuel delivery. (Oh, with the air...check the air filter, and make sure the delivery hose between the filter and injector is snug on both ends).
Posted 22 July 2013 - 09:19 PM
I wager bad intake gaskets. Be careful not to snap the bolts.
Posted 23 July 2013 - 04:43 PM
pull the vac line off the fuel pressure regulator.. if gas comes out bingo. if gas doesnt come out, put a vac line on and suck on it, gas may come out then so be careful.
if it holds vacuum and doesn't leak move on.
my theory is when driving it it creates more vacuum and sucks some gas through the vacuum line and causes it to run rich and stall.
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