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1990 Loyale resurrection

EA-82

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23 replies to this topic

#1 caspice

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Posted 22 July 2013 - 11:57 AM

Picked up a 90 Loyale SW, 5spd, 4wd earlier this year for a few hundred bucks.  

Is has 198829 miles and was suffering from the TOD.  I drove the car prior to purchase, but only up in to fourth due to the area. Everything worked and it ran just fine.  

Upon getting the bru home I proceeded to perform the following:

Pulled the engine and replaced the front crank seal, rear crank seal, and cam seals.

Re-installed the HLA's so that the oil inlet orifice was correctly oriented.

Converted the power steering to manual and removed the pump and associated lines.

Replaced the timing belts and tensioners; discarded the belt covers.

Replaced the oil seal and mickey gasket.

New water-pump, cap & rotor, plugs and wires, clutch assembly, EGR Solenoid, Purge Solenoid.

 

Timing set at 20 degrees BTC.

Idles +/- 700 rpm

No Codes (cleared by replacing the two solenoids mentioned above)

 

It starts and idles, though will backfire through the intake when depressing the accelerator.

When engaged into gear, totally bogs down when the clutch is let out normally and will not go.

If I gas it up in the rpms and dump the clutch, it burns rubber but only briefly and bogs down.

 

i have checked the TPS; both for measured adjusted and electrically-okay

I have measured the Air Valve and MAF and both are coming back in tolerance.

 

What am I missing?

 

 



#2 MilesFox

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Posted 22 July 2013 - 12:28 PM

Make sure the spark plug wires are routed properly. 1-3-2-4 counter clockwise 

 

3 4

1 2



#3 caspice

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Posted 22 July 2013 - 12:53 PM

I will double check the sequence.

 

Wouldn't surprise me if I missed something simple.

Kind of like asking where you left your glasses when they are on top of your noggin'



#4 caspice

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Posted 22 July 2013 - 01:29 PM

MilesFox-thanks for being the second set of eyes. 

 

You nailed it- I had the wires in the wrong order.

A PO had written a firing order diagram on the coolant overflow bottle, and like an idiot I followed that order instead of the order in the book.  

Where's my Dunce Cap?

 

Cheers!



#5 Dee2

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Posted 22 July 2013 - 01:59 PM

wow, you did a ton of work there.  Impressive.



#6 caspice

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Posted 22 July 2013 - 04:53 PM

Thanks for the complement.

 

The work continues.  

So far, including the list at the top, I have:

replaced one half shaft

replaced PCV and hoses

changed sway bar bushings

changed tie-rod bushings

changed all fluids (except brake fluid-its on the to do list)

re-tapped the exhaust holes in the heads (1/2" threads)

replaced the brakes

replaced Radiator and heater hoses

replaced belts for Water-pump, AC, and Alternator with new sizes due to deletion of Power Steering pump

changed a few bad wheel studs

secured a few loose wheel studs (6x5.5 bolt pattern)

relocated the front turn-signals into the front marker lights (removed the front bumper-will be installing a custom unit)

replaced Thermo flasher unit with an Electronic type

Installed a few switches under the Rear-Defrost Switch for lights (relay isolated from the main wiring harness for power draw, but relay activation still requires the ignition to be on)

Installed a 48" Firestik Antenna for my 10 Meter/CB band radio. Ran the cable through the channel in roof -have to drop the headliner-and mounted to the rear lift gate.

installed a locking gas cap just to keep me petrol in my tank

 

Still to do List:

Fix a few rust holes (wheel wells)

Give a paint job

Remove the nasty wheel well extenders from the PO.

replace the exhaust (fixed and patched, but snapped at the CAT when I put the engine back in)

Fix the leaky sun-roof

Order a 8"x3/8"x72" piece of 6061-T6 for the front bumper, build some brackets to fit the stock mounting locations.

Install Auxiliary driving lights.

Change brake fluid

Finish installing my Transceiver (KC3AKA)

Install roof rack

Find a spare tire/wheel to match the other four (Toyota Tacoma Steel Rims with 205/65-15 Winter-Master Tires- it had 215/75-15 when i got it, but the rubbed too much in tight turns)

Maybe tint the windows.

 

i will have to post some pics on progress.

 

Comments?

Questions?



#7 MilesFox

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Posted 22 July 2013 - 09:14 PM

The leaky sunroof may h=just be clogged drain tubes.

 

Bleeding the rear brakes is more successful if you depress the clutch while pumping (provided the hill holder functions. )



#8 Dee2

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 01:21 AM

Thanks for the complement.

 

The work continues.  

So far, including the list at the top, I have:

replaced one half shaft

replaced PCV and hoses

changed sway bar bushings

changed tie-rod bushings

changed all fluids (except brake fluid-its on the to do list)

re-tapped the exhaust holes in the heads (1/2" threads)

replaced the brakes

replaced Radiator and heater hoses

replaced belts for Water-pump, AC, and Alternator with new sizes due to deletion of Power Steering pump

changed a few bad wheel studs

secured a few loose wheel studs (6x5.5 bolt pattern)

relocated the front turn-signals into the front marker lights (removed the front bumper-will be installing a custom unit)

replaced Thermo flasher unit with an Electronic type

Installed a few switches under the Rear-Defrost Switch for lights (relay isolated from the main wiring harness for power draw, but relay activation still requires the ignition to be on)

Installed a 48" Firestik Antenna for my 10 Meter/CB band radio. Ran the cable through the channel in roof -have to drop the headliner-and mounted to the rear lift gate.

installed a locking gas cap just to keep me petrol in my tank

 

Still to do List:

Fix a few rust holes (wheel wells)

Give a paint job

Remove the nasty wheel well extenders from the PO.

replace the exhaust (fixed and patched, but snapped at the CAT when I put the engine back in)

Fix the leaky sun-roof

Order a 8"x3/8"x72" piece of 6061-T6 for the front bumper, build some brackets to fit the stock mounting locations.

Install Auxiliary driving lights.

Change brake fluid

Finish installing my Transceiver (KC3AKA)

Install roof rack

Find a spare tire/wheel to match the other four (Toyota Tacoma Steel Rims with 205/65-15 Winter-Master Tires- it had 215/75-15 when i got it, but the rubbed too much in tight turns)

Maybe tint the windows.

 

i will have to post some pics on progress.

 

Comments?

Questions?

 

Okay, now your just showing off.....

 

Yes, we want pictures !!!



#9 caspice

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 08:15 AM

Thanks for the advice on bleeding out the brake lines.  The HH is functional-tested yesterday.

The sunroof is an after-market chop job, and is leaking between the glass and the seal.Attached File  sun roof.jpg   26.17K   97 downloads

 

 

Attached File  1990 bru.jpg   26.32K   151 downloads getting there.  has a small lift installed.

 

 

Attached File  engine progress.jpg   44.54K   162 downloads  engine back in.

 

 

Attached File  Timing Bung.jpg   28.47K   144 downloadsAttached File  fork boot.jpg   19.05K   124 downloads  the fork boot and timing bung are still available from your local Subaru dealer; surprisingly they are not expensive.

 

 

Attached File  Sans PwrStr Pump.jpg   30.77K   101 downloadsAttached File  No Str Pump.jpg   11.59K   87 downloadsAttached File  steering rack.jpg   9.92K   97 downloads  had to find shorter belts after removing the power-steering pump.  Replaced the rack bushings while I had it out - 25mm for a 1993 impreza.

 

 

Attached File  relay switches.jpg   26.03K   101 downloadsAttached File  Isolator Relays.jpg   7.98K   102 downloads  Added the switches for driving and fog lights (yet to be installed) The switches utilize an ignition selected power source to activate the relays. The relays in turn connect fused circuits feed directly from the battery.  When i turn off the ignition, the relays will disconnect power from the battery to the lights.

 

Attached File  turn signal marker.jpg   9.14K   112 downloads hard to see in the daylight.  Sourced some dual element lamp sockets from the local parts store. A little trim here & there to fit the lens housing.  Soldered the stock connectors to the new sockets, added dual element LED lamps.

 

Attached File  tire.jpg   30.2K   123 downloads  Still need to remove the fender flares and fix the rust.  The rims are from a Toyota Tacoma-$50 for the set.  Tires were used for one season-picked them up for $100.

 

Attached File  firestik.jpg   27.72K   100 downloads Antenna mount re-enforced on the inside of the gate.  Cable runs beside the circuits for the rear brake lamp and washer.  Dropped the headliner and ran the cable along the crease then down the front post behind the dash.  Had to cut the original connectors off to get the cable in.  Connects up to a signal strength metre installed in the bottom tray; then up to the Transceiver.  Using the stock brackets and cover plate I will have both the transceiver and a Radio/CD/MP3 player.  External transceiver speaker installed the driver side dash.  Ran speaker circuits along with the antenna cable in the back.  

This is a Base model Wagon so it only came with speaker in the front doors.

 

More to come soon.

 

 

 

 


Edited by caspice, 23 July 2013 - 09:05 AM.


#10 Dinky26

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 10:34 AM

Wow, I am very jealous for all you have done to this car, I have a 1991 that needs alot of the same treatment.

I pulled the engine back in January and then.......oh stuck in the rutt of LIFE......between work, mother in law, my medical ect ect, THE ENGINE lay in many pieces here and there in my garage...oh dear GOD help me, oh HELP me.....IT will be an EXTREMELY fun puzzel to put back together :o :huh: :blink:


Congrats on your Loyale make over :) ;) !!

Edited by Dinky26, 25 July 2013 - 11:44 PM.


#11 Natemanas

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Posted 25 July 2013 - 04:30 PM

This makes me sad.. I paid too much for my loyale in nowhere near as nice a condition.. :-(



#12 Dinky26

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Posted 25 July 2013 - 11:46 PM

This makes me sad.. I paid too much for my loyale in nowhere near as nice a condition.. :-(



Live and learn bud.

#13 caspice

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Posted 26 July 2013 - 11:33 AM

we all pay too much, but worth it to keep them running.

 

rough estimate for my 'investment' is about $2000 between the actual purchase and all the parts that'll go into it to make it good daily driver.

 

This one isn't any different than my last three GL Hatchbacks.  Pick them up for a few hundred bucks and spend 1-3x's the purchase price getting them back up to snuff.

 

Compared to footing the monthly payment on my truck - I'd rather stick with a twenty - thirty year-old Bru!



#14 caspice

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Posted 31 July 2013 - 08:15 AM

Attached File  roof prep.jpg   53.89K   30 downloads  Attached File  IMAG0131.jpg   92.8K   32 downloads

 

After a closer examination of my current sunroof I noted that the glass sealing gasket  and latch were no longer up to snuff.  Found a newer (used) sunroof on CL for $50.  It is a little longer than the current one.  After I finish painting the top and remove the old one just need a few minor snips to get the new one in place.

No more leaks.


Edited by caspice, 31 July 2013 - 08:28 AM.


#15 caspice

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Posted 05 August 2013 - 09:56 AM

Attached File  1990 Bru Loyal mius bumper.jpg   99.55K   32 downloads  This was the colour of my bru when I got her.  Not being much a 'red'car guy I wanted to tone the colour down abit.

 

Attached File  Passenger rearqtr.jpg   70.58K   46 downloads  after a few samples I decided to use this colour - fossil.

 

Attached File  Paint in progress 6 passenger rear.jpg   76.42K   58 downloads  not too bad for using rattle-cans.  still need to fix some rust spots around the wheel wells, add some new side moldings in the channel and apply bed liner from the channel down.

 

Attached File  RF Fender removed.jpg   75.92K   53 downloads pull the fenders off to paint them individually.  Figured while I was in there, I'd look at relocating the windsheild washer tank.

Attached File  Washer tank bolt 1.jpg   76.52K   32 downloads  There are three (3) 10mm nuts that need to be removed to take the tank off.  This is the most difficult to access, but can be removed without taking the airfilter housing off.

Attached File  Washer tank bolt 2.jpg   37.48K   40 downloads

Tank removedAttached File  Washer tank removed.jpg   94.91K   46 downloads

 

Trying to figure out the best way to relocate the cold-air intake. 

Any advice on homemade snorkles?

Would like to have a good plan in place so I know where to cut into my freshly painted fender.

Attached File  Paint in progress 3 passenger side.jpg   78.46K   42 downloads

 

 



#16 caspice

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Posted 13 August 2013 - 09:15 AM

Attached File  Washer Tank relocate 1.jpg   78.49K   14 downloadsAttached File  Washer Tank relocate 2.jpg   65.36K   20 downloads

I read the washer tank sticky about locating a tank from older model (EA71), but those are few and far between around here.  There are two sets of bolt holes on the shock tower.  I fabbed up a few brackets, and presto! The stock washer tank fits fairly well next to the air filter housing.  The pump wiring reaches without modification.

 

One of the PO's removed the wheel well skirts when they hacked up the fenders.  This creates a small issue having the windshield washer tank and cold air inlet snorkle exposed to what ever the tires kick up.  Having relocated the washer tank out of harms way, i was left with finding a way to keep unwanted items out of the snorkle.  When I took it off, it was full of debris (dirt, rocks, leaves).

Attached File  Washer tank removed.jpg   94.91K   31 downloads 

I cut the top off of a plastic coffee container to make a protective cover.Attached File  Air filter snorkle cover 2.jpg   42.29K   37 downloads Attached File  Air filter snorkle cover.jpg   38.77K   32 downloads

This will help to keep solid debris out of the inlet while not restricting air flow. 

I would still like to provide some level of protection to the air intake assembly and the wiring loom. 


Edited by caspice, 13 August 2013 - 09:16 AM.


#17 BoxerRebellion

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Posted 13 August 2013 - 11:30 AM

Wow.

 

First, shout out to Miles for guessing plug-wire-sequence. Wow.

 

Second, caspice... 'Lotta work dude.

Props for resurrecting a good car, with old parts, that just needed some TLC.

 

Sounds rewarding.



#18 MilesFox

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Posted 13 August 2013 - 10:32 PM

Wow.

 

First, shout out to Miles for guessing plug-wire-sequence. Wow.

I have made that mistake myself....had backfiring out of the throttle. Happens to the best of us.... Experience is the best teacher.



#19 MR_Loyale

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Posted 13 August 2013 - 10:47 PM

attachicon.gifWasher Tank relocate 1.jpgattachicon.gifWasher Tank relocate 2.jpg

I read the washer tank sticky about locating a tank from older model (EA71), but those are few and far between around here.  There are two sets of bolt holes on the shock tower.  I fabbed up a few brackets, and presto! The stock washer tank fits fairly well next to the air filter housing.  The pump wiring reaches without modification.

 

One of the PO's removed the wheel well skirts when they hacked up the fenders.  This creates a small issue having the windshield washer tank and cold air inlet snorkle exposed to what ever the tires kick up.  Having relocated the washer tank out of harms way, i was left with finding a way to keep unwanted items out of the snorkle.  When I took it off, it was full of debris (dirt, rocks, leaves).

attachicon.gifWasher tank removed.jpg

I cut the top off of a plastic coffee container to make a protective cover.attachicon.gifAir filter snorkle cover 2.jpg attachicon.gifAir filter snorkle cover.jpg

This will help to keep solid debris out of the inlet while not restricting air flow. 

I would still like to provide some level of protection to the air intake assembly and the wiring loom. 

 

Since you are going through this car so thoroughly, I might mention that you can still get those splash shields:

 

http://www.trademoti...diagram=7525092



#20 caspice

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 05:35 AM

Thanks for the link MR_loyale.
The cost of those aprons is more than I paid for the car. Money is tight and every penny counts.
It would be nice to have a clean resto, but that would require new fenders since the current ones have been hacked.
This is not a candidate for restoration.
I bought a rubber tub for $5 that should work once I decide on the best method to attach it to the fender. There are mounting tabs still on the inner. The outter tabs are gone since the fenders are hacked. The rear quarters are even worse. This is what I have to work with, so I will do the best I can with what's at hand. Trying to get this on the road by October (next truck payment will be due then). Most of the mechanical issues that I know of have been addressed. Now its onto fixing some rust holes and trying to prevent any new spots.

#21 caspice

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 12:48 PM

Since it is a beautiful sunny day thought that I would change out my old leaky sunroof. Removed all the screws from the retaining ring and it came right out. No worries. Took the frame from the new used one, placed it on top of the roof and measured, and marked, and measured, and marked (you know where this going...right?) Pulled out my trust sheet metal nibbler and had at it; nice and neat. Trimmed up the headliner; again nice and neat. Put the new used frame halfs together, screws all in.
And of course, doesn't quite work out the way planned.
My old sunroof dropped in from the top and was held in place by a retaining ring screwed in from the bottom. The new used sunroof frame is designed so the the top half nests inside the bottom half then it is screwed together.
Needless to say I am an idiot ;-), having transposed the width of the bottom frame for the top. Now that the hole is cut I can clearly see the the design of the newer frame is meant to pinch the roof sheetmetal for a tighter seal. This is one of those moments when instructions come in real handy, too bad my new used sunroof didn't come with any.

Just one of those times when you do something so stupid you have to laugh at yourself and tell everyone. Cheers!

#22 MR_Loyale

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 06:05 PM

Since it is a beautiful sunny day thought that I would change out my old leaky sunroof. Removed all the screws from the retaining ring and it came right out. No worries. Took the frame from the new used one, placed it on top of the roof and measured, and marked, and measured, and marked (you know where this going...right?) Pulled out my trust sheet metal nibbler and had at it; nice and neat. Trimmed up the headliner; again nice and neat. Put the new used frame halfs together, screws all in.
And of course, doesn't quite work out the way planned.
My old sunroof dropped in from the top and was held in place by a retaining ring screwed in from the bottom. The new used sunroof frame is designed so the the top half nests inside the bottom half then it is screwed together.
Needless to say I am an idiot ;-), having transposed the width of the bottom frame for the top. Now that the hole is cut I can clearly see the the design of the newer frame is meant to pinch the roof sheetmetal for a tighter seal. This is one of those moments when instructions come in real handy, too bad my new used sunroof didn't come with any.

Just one of those times when you do something so stupid you have to laugh at yourself and tell everyone. Cheers!

 

Sometimes the tuition at the school of hard knocks is steep.



#23 caspice

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 06:12 PM

This just gives me an excuse to fix something else. If the weather holds next weekend, I will take the newused sunroof out, clean off the paint on the roof near the hole, and tack on a repair strip of sheet metal to decrease the width of the opening. A little mud, a little sanding, a little paint...no worries.
That has to be more fun than pulling the transmission on my 04 Ranger to replace another crapped out slave cylinder.

#24 caspice

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Posted 28 August 2013 - 09:53 PM

ADMIN...can I get this thread moved to Member Rides? Thanx!





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