I'll check it out thanks! Picked up some distributors this weekend. not sure if they're any good. We'll see
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86 BRAT Fuel pump/Disty issue?
Posted 16 October 2013 - 03:11 AM
Posted 22 December 2013 - 12:37 AM
Well I've finally got a chance to begin taking her apart. I started to remove the distributor and noticed there are a few options when it comes to purchasing a new one. I've attached a picture. Is this the right one for my 86 BRAT? I'm assuming it's not the original judging by the splice. Ive also attached a picture of a damaged wire on the carb. Could this contribute to my fuel pump issue? Thanks!
Posted 22 December 2013 - 12:47 AM
Posted 22 December 2013 - 12:48 AM
Posted 22 December 2013 - 05:18 PM
Ya, I have plans for a Weber in the near future but I want to eliminate one problem at a time.
Posted 25 December 2013 - 01:28 PM
Posted 25 December 2013 - 08:39 PM
Ok so I swapped the distributor with the other type and the tach jump and noise seems to have disappeared for now. The car was still missing and dying under load so I temp installed an aftermarket fuel pump. So far, she seems to be running great. The old fuel pump must have been weak and conveniently failed the same time as the distributor. I have the fuel pump wired to a switch right now so I still haven't checked to see if the "no power to fuel pump" problem is resolved with the new disty.
Posted 28 December 2013 - 01:57 PM
Posted 28 December 2013 - 06:17 PM
Posted 28 December 2013 - 06:20 PM
Posted 05 January 2014 - 03:37 AM
Posted 05 January 2014 - 09:42 PM
Going back to the picture of the carb. I believe the wire goes to an anti
diesel device. If the wire grounds it will stall the car. If this is the problem
try to start the car and wiggle the wire it should affect the way the car
Posted 24 February 2014 - 04:53 AM
Ok so I've finally made it home for alittle bit and all the symptoms seem to have returned. The tach is jumping all over the place again and the car wont drive down the road but it will idle in the driveway all day. The disty I installed was used so I can't completely eliminate that as a possibility but I have tried 2 known good fuel pumps so that is definately out of the equation. I'm lost with this thing I'm about to push it into the Ocean! Please HELP!
Posted 28 February 2014 - 11:30 AM
Find a hitachi dis for it Nippon ones not so good also have you checked the fuel pump timer ? and the screen in the carb on the neddle and seat was a problem on those carbed cars screen pluged up and bypassed carb = no fuel
Posted 28 February 2014 - 03:17 PM
I'll try and find a Hitachi. What is the fuel pump timer? what do I remove to get to those screens?
Posted 28 February 2014 - 03:40 PM
How many volts is this thing throwing out? I recently killed a voltage reg in mine and it would miss bad once the revs/volts got up. Ran great at idle tho.
Posted 28 February 2014 - 04:41 PM
fuel pump timer is the safety cut out device found above the pedals, black box with about six wire plug in it. It is a neck and body twisting effort to get at, let alone test it in that spot. I would be testing at the fuel pump and be testing across the two wires at pump - meaning source your neg and pos from the fuel pump plug and see that the test device does not lose power after engine is running. With my 89 Brumby I found fuel pump does not get power until engine is running, so no fuel pump power in start/crank key position as it should start with what fuel is in the float bowl, if engine stalls with ign in run or IGN on position, black box cuts power or earth to pump for safety.
However, I tried to disable ignition spark during a comp test so pulled ign fuse I think it would have been and noted fuel pump then ran at odd key positions - didn't run the same protection mode ???[
Posted 01 March 2014 - 03:56 AM
I wasn't getting power at the fuel pump when this whole thing started so I've had the pump wired to a switch since then.
Posted 01 March 2014 - 10:58 AM
I'm in the same boat here. I've gone all over the thing and swapped parts all over the place.
My investigations are now going toward the wires between the relay and the pump.
Some Brumby forums mention problems with grounding of the pump wires.
So, getting out the meter and test light and more prising.
I've not investigated the passenger area of the car yet.
Will let you know if I find the resident gremilin.
(Credit to AG Macay's youtube video on his Brumby restoration, "Subaru Brumby 2: The work begins")
Edited by kayoteq, 03 March 2014 - 03:01 AM.
Posted 03 March 2014 - 01:58 AM
The wires should come through the bulkhead directly fwd of the pump I have read mine out to the connector at the relay and had continuity all the way through. If it was grounding out the power wire somewhere I think it would blow a fuse. I have my pump wired direct to a switch for now so I can troubleshoot one problem at a time.
Edited by TIMBERTIGER, 03 March 2014 - 01:58 AM.
Posted 03 March 2014 - 03:14 AM
grounding out should be popping a fuse. A fusible link. something. It seems to defy the flow of electrons itself.
Me, personally I think I may have a melted wire in the harness between the coil and the firewall. I ran it too long with a bad alternator..
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