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89 D/R Ej22 swap


snofool
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Did you get that throttle cable adjusted so its opening all the way?  I remember you saying something about that last time we talked.

I didn't. The # 1 injector isn't working. I also could'nt use the axels I got from rock auto. They are too long and I cannot get the camber bolts in, it caused a binding and vibration issue. So I cut the axels apart and made it rear wheel drive. I have to say, doing burnouts with rear wheel is a blast. But still down an injector so we will have to see how she does firing on all 4. Oh yeah, and a muffler too.  And dash wiring would be good.

Edited by snofool
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if poor signal to idle motor will drop injector pulse on #1 cly is dirctly linked commen problem for eraly harnesses to drop #1 fighting this many times

Have you found a solution for this? Should I get a new injector? Or is it a wiring issue? I was gonna try to pick one up at the J/Y.

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I took out the harness and I am going to have kingbobdole clean it up a bit then try it again. I took out the smj and added a birds nest. So hopefully I will get the bugs worked out after the harness is refined. I am going to check the resistance on the #1 injector tomorrow. Hopefully I don't need too much more mechanical work done. I still need axels that will fit. So I have that hurdle to jump as well.

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The 93 impreza FWD 5spd axels with 23 spline transmission side and ej outer. Overall compressed length around 27 1/4 or 1/2. This is just a bit too long and causes vibrations when driving. I could not get the top camber bolt to go in without excessive pressure on the knuckle. I could get them in but the ride was terrible. I have 1990 legacy knuckles. I am wondering if I need the impreza knuckles. I am needing just a bit shorter axel. I remember when putting the axels in for the first time it lifted the transmission off the crossmember. This was when there was no engine in the car. I think the engine being in there puts the transmission down enough to put an excess amount of pressure/stress on the trans and axels.

 

What is the axle problem ? to short or to long have biult many hyberd axles also did you shim the reverse on your DR before you installed it ? makes reverse 70 % stronger

The car always had a dr. How do you shim the reverse gear?

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I put a 1/4 inch brass washer behind the reverse idler gear to prevent it kicking forward and only grabing half the gear was a DR problem have seen many reverse gone and many more that pop out the reason it pops out is cause the reverse idler kicks forward and only grabs half the teeth on the rverse drive gear witch wears the teeth on a 45 and makes it realy want to pop out until it rips the one side of teeth off. Took many hour to figure this repair out and is proven fix on my own cars and many more. I reverse shim all five speeds up to 99 when they fixed case

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I have no more time to work on this car. I have to leave for work for the next 7 months. I was hoping to drive this car to work in Sothern california. But now it will have to wait till next year. Unless I can get it done in the next week. Which at the rate I'm going backwards I'm not so sure that will happen. I have not found axels that will work, and I am getting some made. So it's a rear wheel drive vehicle for now. If the motor runs on all four cylinders, I might take it out but a 2,000 plus mile road trip right after a project re build sounds like a gamble to me. Time will tell.

Edited by snofool
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  • 2 weeks later...

The 93 impreza FWD 5spd axels with 23 spline transmission side and ej outer. Overall compressed length around 27 1/4 or 1/2. This is just a bit too long and causes vibrations when driving. I could not get the top camber bolt to go in without excessive pressure on the knuckle. I could get them in but the ride was terrible. I have 1990 legacy knuckles. I am wondering if I need the impreza knuckles. I am needing just a bit shorter axel. I remember when putting the axels in for the first time it lifted the transmission off the crossmember. This was when there was no engine in the car. I think the engine being in there puts the transmission down enough to put an excess amount of pressure/stress on the trans and axels.

 

The car always had a dr. How do you shim the reverse gear?

I am having the same issues on a swap I am currently working on. Have you resolved it yet?  I have learned that Subaru OEM axles with the smaller inboard D/O joint are better to work with than some of the aftermarket ones. If you take the inner joint apart and flip the D/O bearing on the in-board side of the axle shaft (requires removing the snap-ring) this will gain you enough length that it will work. There has to be a better solution though?  I have tried all of the early EJ knuckles and there is no difference in axle spacing on an EA82 body. Impreza, Leg, ABS or Non, all the same.

 

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post-25394-0-77302600-1381079407_thumb.jpg

 

Please reply with any updates if you find out any new info.

Edited by Crazyeights
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Fix the cv by changing the axle outputs on front diff

With a legacy output shaft? I wish I could pull the trans, shim Reverse, change output shaft to 25 spline but, I cannot afford anymore big mods like this at the moment. I will try and resolve with a custom axel first but if that fails then on to cracking the case and doing said work. Thanks for the advice. 

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  • 1 month later...

Got an exhaust system and have been a total of 200 mi so far. It is really quiet with a cat/resonator/muffler, but still big enough to allow good flow. I think the radiator is more than enough because with two 12 in fans running full time the car takes a while to warm up and drop the rpm's. I will eventually run one fan constant and one on a re-lay I guess. I still have not acquired front axels and the snow is here. I need to find some that work. I am going to try some napa ones and if they don't work then I will try the custom route. I was under the impression that the 93-94 fwd impreza axels were a compatible mix:however for my application it has not. I will report my findings. 

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Car keeps overheating, guess I can't get the air bubbles out very easy. Trying to figure out how to best do this. I have an expansion tank instead of a cap on the radiator. Damn brz radiator. I think I need an air bleed tube. Still need front axels as well. I don't have anywhere to do it right now and the street doesn't sound like a great place to have to do it.

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Car keeps overheating, guess I can't get the air bubbles out very easy. Trying to figure out how to best do this. I have an expansion tank instead of a cap on the radiator. Damn brz radiator. I think I need an air bleed tube. Still need front axels as well. I don't have anywhere to do it right now and the street doesn't sound like a great place to have to do it.

Did you fix the fan problem? My dad and i had to wire the fan on the brat to on with the key. -Calvin

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on race car we putt a tee at upper heater hose hooked to a rad cap to the tee [ just a blank radcap top from ea rad ] this gave us a cap up high that can be opened to let air out or fill works very well. What axle combo do you need have over a 100 axles here every kind every year trans output ? front knukle year ? I could test the fit on bench

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Car keeps overheating, guess I can't get the air bubbles out very easy. Trying to figure out how to best do this. I have an expansion tank instead of a cap on the radiator. Damn brz radiator. I think I need an air bleed tube. Still need front axels as well. I don't have anywhere to do it right now and the street doesn't sound like a great place to have to do it.

 

XT6 axles.

 

They are the right length, cause they are made for that chassis.  You will need 25 spline stubs, or swap out the inner cup.

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I found some axels that worked but they broke a boot from the lift in two days. Brrrrt! I guess I have to lower the engine and tranny now. I have some outback blocks has anyone ever done this successfully? Do I also need to get a new steering extension? I was hoping I could get away with the lift. It worked way better on my last car. 

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Added a return line to my expansion tank and got all the bubbles out. Thanks to Shawn W. for the missing link once again. He had a vacuum line off a manifold that happened to fit the brz radiator. Now I'm not overheating, I'm not getting enough heat to the heater core and the car always thinks its warming up. Revs at 2000 rpms forever.I now need to wire the fans to the temperature sensor relay so they turn off from time to time when not needed. I might just wire them to switches in the cab. This might be easier. Maybe switch one wire and put the other one on the a/c relay.

 I also put on some 205/60/16 winter force tires and they make the car a blast to drive in the snow. A bit smaller too so the acceleration is better as well. Now I need to put some lowering blocks and better struts so the ride is a little better. It's not bad but there is no travel in the coil over. Actually rides awesome on the dry road, but I want a capable vehicle not a road car. However if you put these on all 4's and kept it low to the ground it would be killer. I might put them up for sale on here if the other struts work better for me. 

Edited by snofool
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