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91 Legacy Wont go past 30mph, whats wrong?

legacy t transmission

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12 replies to this topic

#1 91 Legacy Gal

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 10:46 AM

Hi Guys I hate to make this my first post but I need your help!

I have a 1991 Subaru Legacy LS... 3 weeks ago I just put ALL new brakes on, New back rotors, new muffler, new master cylinder, new tune-up. Just a few days ago my car was on high idle and when you step on the pedal it wont go past 30mph do you think it might be the tranny? The very next day the motor sounded normal but still wouldnt go past 20-30mph but got hot and engine light came on. Transmission fluid did smell burned and looked brown. I only put 400 miles on my car in 8 months, I baby my car how could my tranny go??
Right after I hired this guy from Craigslist when he put on my MC, my brake pedal is very slow, hardly any brakes! I think I might have to junk my car, I cant afford to fix it anymore, but I need a car, both my son and I are on disability and we have to get to the doctor. What could be wrong? Oh.. this high idle happened 1 time about about a month ago!



#2 ivans imports

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 11:08 AM

dose the speedo work ? speed senser problem or plugs for trans disconected or damaged



#3 NorthWet

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 12:06 PM

What is the speed limited by, maximum engine RPM or not enough power from the engine?



#4 91 Legacy Gal

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 02:38 PM

What is the speed limited by, maximum engine RPM or not enough power from the engine?

I wasnt even thinking the tranny was going until my ex came by and said it probably was, but before I sell for parts or junk I hope it isnt a $10 part! I'm not sure if I am understanding the question "What is the speed limited by" The day before this all happened my motor was shaking very bad, then the next day idle was fine. It doesnt seem to get power when you gas it but then again it doesnt shift well either if that makes sense..



#5 rverdoold

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 03:01 PM

Is your handbrake not on. You changed the rear rotors, can you spin your wheels freely when lifted from the ground? 

On the other hand a AWD car should pull through the handbrake.



#6 91 Legacy Gal

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 03:06 PM

Is your handbrake not on. You changed the rear rotors, can you spin your wheels freely when lifted from the ground? 

On the other hand a AWD car should pull through the handbrake.

Handbrake is not on, yes you spin the wheels freely when lifted from the ground.



#7 john in KY

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 05:24 PM

The air intake tube, the tube that runs from the airflow meter/airfilter to the throttle body typically has a number of smaller hoses attached to it. Whoever did the tune up may have removed this tube and failed to reattach  the smaller hoses. Worth a look see. A bad airflow meter can cause the no-power problem. Happened to me once. Car is still running with a wrecking yard $5 replacement. Car should have a tack. What does it indicate when you are maxed out doing 30mph?



#8 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 10:47 PM

create a new thread asking for recommendation of mechanic in/near pottsville. Might be worth $80 diagnosis to discover if your car can be made safe and reliable for $100 or needs $2000 worth of work.

 

in addition to what's mentioned above, some other possible problems are a clogged cat. converter or slipped cam/crank timing. How old is the timing belt?



#9 NorthWet

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Posted 12 August 2013 - 01:37 AM

In first post, you said that "the engine light came on".  Are you referring to the "check engine" light?  If so, it is probably a good idea to follow the procedure to display the error codes.

 

Regarding my original post/question:  yes, I was trying to figure out whether the engine was running properly or not, or if the problem was with the transmission only.  Sounds like it is an engine issue.  Has it acted like this since the service, or did it run ok for a while and then have issues?  

 

Don't panic!  This engine is pretty reliable, and the cause is probably something relatively minor.



#10 johnceggleston

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Posted 12 August 2013 - 06:57 AM

when driving 30 mph, what does the tachometer read?

 

you could be in ''limp'' mode. third gear only.

this is designed to allow you to drive home if the ''electronics'' fail.

 

but if you were in limp mode i would think you could drive much faster.

 

you need to read the code.

that will point you in the right direction.



#11 heartless

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Posted 12 August 2013 - 08:33 AM

if the "check engine" light came on (even if it is now off) you need to find out what the code is. This is something you can do yourself (unless you are physically unable to get under the dash- in which case, enlist the help of a friend that can)

 

1. Remove the lower dash panel (under the steering column). there should be 5 philips head screws - 3 along the top edge, and 2 on the bottom corners.

 

2. Once that panel is out of the way, you want to find 2 pairs of single wire connectors - 1 green pair and 1 black pair - they should not be connected together under normal conditions. It is possible that they are still taped up to the wiring harness under there, so it may take a little digging to find them.

 

3. With the car turned completely off, connect the black connectors together. (grab a note pad & pen/pencil to make notes with for the next part)

 

4. Turn the ignition to 'ON' but do not start the car.  The idiot lights in the dash will come on, and some may go out after a few moments.  Watch the 'check engine' light - If there is a fault code in the ECU, the 'check engine' light will begin to flash in a particular manner.

 

The codes range in number from 11 to 52, so we know that they all will be two digits.  To signify the tens place of the number, the 'check engine' light will flash a long (1.2 seconds) flash.  The single digit will be a short (.2 seconds) flash.  Each flash within the same code will be separated by .3 seconds.  Each error code will be separated by 1.8 seconds.

 

Don't bother trying to time all these, just watch the light and you will begin to understand.  Once the ECU has flashed all stored codes, it will loop through and repeat them.

 

Once you have all stored codes written down, you can turn the ignition switch off and disconnect the black connectors. (if you want to double check the codes you have written down, leave the connectors hooked up, turn the ignition switch off, then back to "on" again to start the cycle over)

 

to find out what the code(s) are, check the chart here: http://legacycentral...ature/codes.htm

 

Also list the codes, in the order they were flashed, here so we can help you.

 

On the brake pedal being soft - more than likely the brake system was not bled out properly and still has air in the system - this is a fairly easy fix, but time consuming.



#12 Olnick

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Posted 12 August 2013 - 12:39 PM

Nice job heartless!  Clear & concise writeup of the procedure.  Thanks.



#13 heartless

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Posted 12 August 2013 - 06:10 PM

Nice job heartless!  Clear & concise writeup of the procedure.  Thanks.

 

Thanks, I remember what it was like to be new to all of this stuff. :)  and having a 1990 myself, I know exactly what is involved - I also have to give credit to Legacy777, since about half of the info came from his page.

 

I have learned a lot from the USMB over the years, and continue to learn - but it is high time i started giving back at least a little. :D


Edited by heartless, 12 August 2013 - 06:15 PM.






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