idosubaru Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 one (of course) rear diff ring gear bolt stripped. the obvious solution is repair the threads, but what do the following "non thread repair" options look like, because I highly doubt i'm doing thread repair on this: 1. leave the stripped bolt out? this is where I'm leaning, it's my daily driver XT6 so i'm not too concerned. 2. leave two out - 180 degrees apart for balance? i doubt balance here is critical concern. 3. leave it in and locktite the snot out of it. ithis sounds like an awful option. it already has locktite so i wonder if i'll even be able to tell which one is stripped....? rather than standard 1.25 thread it's 1.00? i doubt i'll buy that weirdo sized inserts i'll never use again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 I think that 3 should be dismissed out of hand. Having a hardened steel jumping-jack bouncing around inside the diff sounds like no fun. I think either options 1 or 2 would be acceptable. I would probably opt for 1, as the radius from center is small (70 or 80 mms??), the mass around it is great and it is not "unsprung mass", subject to harmonics from a sprung mount. Option 2 is probably fine, since you don't strike me as someone likely to try to do an AWD burn out. The R160s were used in Datsun 240Zs back when BRE was racing them, so they probably have a lot of margin of safety in the strength department. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 16, 2013 Author Share Posted August 16, 2013 I think that 3 should be dismissed out of hand. Having a hardened steel jumping-jack bouncing around inside the diff sounds like no fun. I think either options 1 or 2 would be acceptable. I would probably opt for 1, as the radius from center is small (70 or 80 mms??), the mass around it is great and it is not "unsprung mass", subject to harmonics from a sprung mount. Option 2 is probably fine, since you don't strike me as someone likely to try to do an AWD burn out. The R160s were used in Datsun 240Zs back when BRE was racing them, so they probably have a lot of margin of safety in the strength department. thanks, i love hearing what i want to hear! i'll take the one out and be done with it, i've ran enough uneven bolt patterns on rotating assemblies to think this doesn't matter and your unsprung whatchamaharmonic intertia stuff suggests the same. lol *hopefully* i can figure out which one it is now that i left it in and the locktite has hardened. that'll be the hard part. you are correct. burnouts and drifting are things i don't know how to do. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 (edited) thanks, i love hearing what i want to hear! i'll take the one out and be done with it, i've ran enough uneven bolt patterns on rotating assemblies to think this doesn't matter and your unsprung whatchamaharmonic intertia stuff suggests the same. lol *hopefully* i can figure out which one it is now that i left it in and the locktite has hardened. that'll be the hard part. you are correct. burnouts and drifting are things i don't know how to do. LOL I would go for option one, option two would also work but probably isn't necessary. I would pass on option 3, too risky. Edited August 17, 2013 by Crazyeights Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 one bolt is likely what i'll go with but if anyone else has this come up...weld it? offroad folks weld their opens diffsso likewise may be able to weld the bolt in place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 slap it back together without. If you have a vibration, easiest solution is to weld it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 id avoid welding it. gears would probably have a heat treatment to make them wear longer, the heat may mess it up. when you weld the carrier the ring gear is off (everytime I have seen someone do it, though i guess you dont have to.). you just weld some of the the gears inside the carrier. you could probably just put a few tacks in the bolt safely, but the same thing applies as number 3. id just run without. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 1 or 2 woudl both work, but really is it worth it wondering? Just grab a diff outta a GL and slap it in. 3.9 correct? Dime a Dozen. Or is it an LSD? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 18, 2013 Author Share Posted August 18, 2013 (edited) Just grab a diff outta a GL and slap it in. 3.9 correct? Dime a Dozen. Or is it an LSD? LSD Edited August 18, 2013 by grossgary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 A quick tack weld on the bolt head like mentioned above would also be a really good solution (and quite reversible). I think you could be quick enough to not worry about the heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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