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non-thread repair options for a stripped rear diff ring gear bolt?


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9 replies to this topic

#1 grossgary

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 05:20 PM

one (of course) rear diff ring gear bolt stripped.  the obvious solution is repair the threads, but what do the following "non thread repair" options look like, because I highly doubt i'm doing thread repair on this:

 

1. leave the stripped bolt out? this is where I'm leaning, it's my daily driver XT6 so i'm not too concerned.

2. leave two out - 180 degrees apart for balance?  i doubt balance here is critical concern.

3. leave it in and locktite the snot out of it.  ithis sounds like an awful option.

 

it already has locktite so i wonder if i'll even be able to tell which one is stripped....?

 

rather than standard 1.25 thread it's 1.00?  i doubt i'll buy that weirdo sized inserts i'll never use again.



#2 NorthWet

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 05:50 PM

I think that 3 should be dismissed out of hand.  Having a hardened steel jumping-jack bouncing around inside the diff sounds like no fun.

 

I think either options 1 or 2 would be acceptable.  I would probably opt for 1, as the radius from center is small (70 or 80 mms??), the mass around it is great and it is not "unsprung mass", subject to harmonics from a sprung mount.

 

Option 2 is probably fine, since you don't strike me as someone likely to try to do an AWD burn out.  The R160s were used in Datsun 240Zs back when BRE was racing them, so they probably have a lot of margin of safety in the strength department.



#3 grossgary

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 06:27 PM

I think that 3 should be dismissed out of hand.  Having a hardened steel jumping-jack bouncing around inside the diff sounds like no fun.

 

I think either options 1 or 2 would be acceptable.  I would probably opt for 1, as the radius from center is small (70 or 80 mms??), the mass around it is great and it is not "unsprung mass", subject to harmonics from a sprung mount.

 

Option 2 is probably fine, since you don't strike me as someone likely to try to do an AWD burn out.  The R160s were used in Datsun 240Zs back when BRE was racing them, so they probably have a lot of margin of safety in the strength department.

 

thanks, i love hearing what i want to hear!

 

i'll take the one out and be done with it, i've ran enough uneven bolt patterns on rotating assemblies to think this doesn't matter and your unsprung whatchamaharmonic intertia stuff suggests the same. lol

 

*hopefully* i can figure out which one it is now that i left it in and the locktite has hardened.  that'll be the hard part. 

 

you are correct.  burnouts and drifting are things i don't know how to do. LOL



#4 Crazyeights

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 09:15 PM

thanks, i love hearing what i want to hear!

 

i'll take the one out and be done with it, i've ran enough uneven bolt patterns on rotating assemblies to think this doesn't matter and your unsprung whatchamaharmonic intertia stuff suggests the same. lol

 

*hopefully* i can figure out which one it is now that i left it in and the locktite has hardened.  that'll be the hard part. 

 

you are correct.  burnouts and drifting are things i don't know how to do. LOL

I would go for option one, option two would also work but probably isn't necessary. I would pass on option 3, too risky.


Edited by Crazyeights, 16 August 2013 - 09:16 PM.


#5 grossgary

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 09:16 PM

one bolt is likely what i'll go with but if anyone else has this come up...weld it?  

offroad folks weld their opens diffsso likewise may be able to weld the bolt in place?



#6 Idasho

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 09:20 PM

slap it back together without.

 

If you have a vibration, easiest solution is to weld it in.  



#7 djellum

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 12:42 AM

id avoid welding it.  gears would probably have a heat treatment to make them wear longer, the heat may mess it up.  when you weld the carrier the ring gear is off (everytime I have seen someone do it, though i guess you dont have to.).  you just weld some of the the gears inside the carrier.

 

you could probably just put a few tacks in the bolt safely, but the same thing applies as number 3.  id just run without.



#8 Gloyale

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 03:57 PM

1 or 2 woudl both work, but really is it worth it wondering?

 

Just grab a diff outta a GL and slap it in. 

 

3.9 correct?  Dime a Dozen.  Or is it an LSD?



#9 grossgary

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 12:06 AM

Just grab a diff outta a GL and slap it in. 

 

3.9 correct?  Dime a Dozen.  Or is it an LSD?

LSD


Edited by grossgary, 18 August 2013 - 12:15 AM.


#10 Crazyeights

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 12:40 AM

A quick tack weld on the bolt head like mentioned above would also be a really good solution (and quite reversible). I think you could be quick enough to not worry about the heat.






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