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Rear defrost, spade clips detached from grid?!
Posted 27 August 2013 - 07:19 PM
Found this while working on my 95 sedan today. BOTH sides have been broken off! O.o
The positive side was laying right against the sheet metal under the trim, so I'm sure the fuse is probably blown, if the timer module isn't completely toast.
I've repaired the grids before, but never this. As many things as I've soldered, I've never soldered on glass, and I'm wondering if that's the only way to fix this?
Or is there some magic "metal glue" that I can use the stick these back on?
Id sure hate to try soldering this back, and end up shattering the rear windsheild. But with cooler weather on the horizon I need to try and fix this now so I can use the defroster this winter!
Posted 27 August 2013 - 07:27 PM
Posted 27 August 2013 - 09:57 PM
I used a cheap grid repair kit, (the kind with the brush and stencil for a thin line break in the grid) and a clear rear view mirror adhesive. I 'painted' the center of the clip with the copper grid repair liquid heavily, then 'painted' the edges of the clip with the mirror adhesive. I held them tight until it set. It actually worked. The wet copper conductor bridged the gap between the clip and grid, the adhesive held the edges of the clip tight.
That frost king tab binding adhesive with the conductor in it looks to be the bomb, if it ain't a silly price.
Posted 27 August 2013 - 11:27 PM
I have had good luck soldering these back on. Make sure to use a high enough wattage gun so you can do it really quickly (less chance of damage). Also clean the area well and use flux. It may not be the proper way, but the repairs I have done so far have lasted for years. I suppose you could also use a conductive epoxy for a "cold" fix. If you aren't really comfortable with a soldering iron I wouldn't make this my first task with one.
Edited by Crazyeights, 27 August 2013 - 11:30 PM.
Posted 27 August 2013 - 11:58 PM
Think ill wait til mid day when the sun is bearing down on the window and has it nice and warmed up. Should help spread the heat more evenly.
Posted 01 September 2013 - 11:06 PM
Conductive Wire Glue
Radioshack catalog number: 6400146
I figured for that cheap I would give it a shot, and sure enough it works! I glued one tab on, let it cure, then tried to break it off again. It took quite a bit of force, almost enough to bend the tab, before it popped off. Glued it back, glued the other one back on.
Measured resistance of the grid next to the tabs and got 1.95 ohms.
Measured across the tabs and got just a hair flutter over 2.0 ohms.
Calculated difference in amperage is only about 1/4 amp at 13.5v. Since vehicle electrical systems are almost never a steady 13.5v anyway, there will be a larger difference in amps through the circuit because of voltage differences than will be caused by the glue I used to stick the tabs back on.
No mess, no heat. Clean the tabs and the area on the grid where they go. Apply glue to the tabs, press to the grid and hold for about a minute. Then tape the tabs in place with some masking tape for 24 hours for the "glue" to fully cure.
Posted 02 September 2013 - 01:40 PM
Great! It's nice to have a working alternative to soldering these on.
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