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P0125, P0325, P0115, starting issue and more in a 95 Subaru Legacy
Posted 29 August 2013 - 06:47 PM
It all began when I began having problems getting my subie to start. It would crank an crank bit never turn over, behaving as if the engine were flooded. The reason I conclude this is because the immediate fix is to keep the accelerator floored and crank until it catches but it either almost putters out (complete with smoke from the exhaust) until it fully fires up with a very, very high idle that eventually mellows out, or just fires up as if I just rev'd it pretty hard for a second. Thought it was spark so I changed the plugs, no difference, which leads me to conclude it's either...
P0125, P0325, P0115
(Knock and temp sensor following a failing thermostat) :
This is what The scan read after I got a diagnostics run on it today. After being told that my coolant system is pretty much afflicted with a myriad of problems I decided it was time to post my findings on this forum. What I want to ask is my car salvageable? Are these fixes DIY or would a professional be needed? Would these problems be tied to my starting issue?
It would be worth noting that my water pump is probably in need of replacement. The most recent repairs I had done were the cam seals and going belt, other than that just your usual oil change. I will also note that my coolant is pretty much brown/black at this point and fear that all this could be much worse than just a few sensor replacements.
I apologize if anything sounds vague or too all over the place, feel free to ask me to clarify anything, I'm just a bit overwhelmed.
Posted 29 August 2013 - 06:48 PM
Posted 29 August 2013 - 07:32 PM
Don't panic--I'm sure your car is totally "salvageable!" How long have you had it? How many miles on it? Do you know any of its repair history?
From the codes I'd suggest trying a new ECTS--engine coolant temperature sender. New knock sensor too. They're not very expensive and not very difficult to install. Also drain and flush the dirty coolant--maybe pull the old thermostat and replace (make sure you only use a genuine Subaru 'stat!)
Don't know your level of "expertise," but these are all fairly simple "driveway repairs." Try a search here on USMB, they've all been well documented over the years.
The '95s are great engines, I've driven mine for years and it still "runs like new!" (But the body ain't gonna' last much longer!!!)
Good luck--and by all means keep asking questions if there's something you don't understand. Oh, and welcome to USMB!
Posted 29 August 2013 - 08:02 PM
Alright, I've owned it for about three years now and it's hitting close to 230k right about now (228,314 I believe). As far as repairs go I've only had the timing belt and cam seals replaced about a month ago, and the spark plugs were done yesterday. Anything before the car came into my possession I'm not sure of, other than the regular oil change.
Posted 29 August 2013 - 10:03 PM
Also, see if you can borrow a gauge and check the fuel pressure. Additionally, next time it has sat and you think it probably won't start pull the plugs and see if one cylinder is noticeably wet with fuel. maybe an injector is leaking down. Another test would be, cycle the key to ON, not start, and wait 10 seconds, then cycle back to OFF, then to ON, wait 10 seconds, OFF, repeat one or 2 more times, then start. (the fuel pump will run for a few seconds each time - you should hear it) If it starts OK, maybe loosing fuel pressure in the rails.
Edited by 1 Lucky Texan, 29 August 2013 - 10:04 PM.
Posted 29 August 2013 - 10:03 PM
Most of the time failure of the water pump or one of the other idlers is what causes the belt to break. They seldom break on their own.
Codes and symptoms point to a bad engine coolant temp sensor. Basically the ECU thinks its 40 below all the time (lowest possible temp the ECU can register) so it's flooding the engine dumping fuel into it.
Cold air is much more dense, so the ECU has to add fuel when cold, otherwise the mixture would be too lean to start the engine.
Problem is the air isn't actually that cold, so you have a mega cold air amount of fuel, but a warm air density. It means the mixture is way too rich to start the engine.
Once its running it isn't a big deal, except that you'll use a ton of fuel.
Replace the ECT sensor and you should be good to go.
Posted 30 August 2013 - 05:35 PM
Posted 30 August 2013 - 07:18 PM
Posted 03 September 2013 - 10:39 AM
Posted 03 September 2013 - 11:54 AM
That's great news HadrianV--and thanks for letting us know. Years ago I had to replace the ECTS on my '95 and it was magical how the car immediately ran "like new!" You might want to check for OBD2 codes again, there might still be some stored.
Probably needs a new KS. And I'd be tempted to pull the thermostat to make sure it's the correct (Subaru) one. You don't have to open up the front end to get to the T-stat--can do it from under the car.
Good luck & happy driving.
Posted 03 September 2013 - 12:18 PM
You'll certainly want to get the cooling system flushed and I'd recommend replacing the radiator hoses since there's a good chance they are old and ready to blow up.
Posted 05 September 2013 - 01:36 PM
Posted 05 September 2013 - 01:50 PM
You can buy some stuff made by prestone that you just drain, fill with water and the juice, run, drain, fill with water, repeat as many times as you want (at least 3).
That was what got all the stop leak out of my car....
Posted 05 September 2013 - 03:22 PM
Posted 06 September 2013 - 07:19 PM
Posted 06 September 2013 - 07:47 PM
Posted 07 September 2013 - 07:44 PM
Posted 07 September 2013 - 11:56 PM
Limp mode pulls back the ignition timing to a certain preset and just keeps it there. Feels like the engine has about half as much power as it should.
Posted 09 September 2013 - 12:16 AM
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