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redrilling bellhousing


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14 replies to this topic

#1 Carl B.

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 07:31 PM

I got an ej adapter plate that uses offset welded studs at the top mounts.  I dont really like this method and was thinking of redrilling the bellhousing.  Has anyone tried this?  Looks like I could drill the engine side bellhousing and TIG in an aluminum wedge where the nut would tighten.  Or has anyone else gone a different route than an adapter plate?



#2 bluto5

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 10:32 PM

well, not to try and deter you but.. 

 

I have about 10k miles on my swap with some welded up offset bolts. I made mine myself. right now they are living with an ej22t and 17psi from a tdo4.

 

My adapter plate as delivered was intended to be used with bolts from both sides threaded into the adapter plate.

 

I wasn't thrilled with this setup, smallish standard bolts from the engine side. 2 strikes right off the bat.

 

Sam



#3 Gloyale

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Posted 17 September 2013 - 10:58 AM

well, not to try and deter you but.. 

 

I have about 10k miles on my swap with some welded up offset bolts. I made mine myself. right now they are living with an ej22t and 17psi from a tdo4.

 

My adapter plate as delivered was intended to be used with bolts from both sides threaded into the adapter plate.

 

I wasn't thrilled with this setup, smallish standard bolts from the engine side. 2 strikes right off the bat.

 

Sam

 

Yeah I don't like the SJR style where the engine side bolts are smaller to go through the Original threaded holes in the engine bell.

 

 

I don't think drilling and tapping and welding on teh bellhousing is a good idea either.

 

Our HighGuys plates use M10 bolts for both sets of holes.  Requires drilling out the threads from the engine bolt holes so the M10 will fit through.

 

With that said, I've also seen lots of adapters setup with offset welded bolts.  Very good method as well, If that's what your palte was setup for, then I would just go with it like that.



#4 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 17 September 2013 - 12:24 PM

Yeah I don't like the SJR style where the engine side bolts are smaller to go through the Original threaded holes in the engine bell.

 

I designed it that way so the installer wouldn't need to modify the engine bellhousing, Ive received no complaints of bolt  strength or failure , if someone wanted the larger bolts I can tap them bigger for you


Edited by Scott in Bellingham, 17 September 2013 - 12:24 PM.


#5 Carl B.

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Posted 17 September 2013 - 04:36 PM

I'm thinking from a maintenance standpoint. The offset studs combined with the bottom studs are a pita. Also by drilling the bellhousing you have two less bolts than the tapped style adapter plate.

#6 Crazyeights

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Posted 17 September 2013 - 11:52 PM

I designed it that way so the installer wouldn't need to modify the engine bellhousing, Ive received no complaints of bolt  strength or failure , if someone wanted the larger bolts I can tap them bigger for you

I have several years on my SJR EJ22 adapter and 4" EA81 lift and all is rock solid so far. Thanks Scott!



#7 Gloyale

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 10:41 AM

I'm thinking from a maintenance standpoint. The offset studs combined with the bottom studs are a pita. Also by drilling the bellhousing you have two less bolts than the tapped style adapter plate.

 

Line it up and look.  There isn't enoguh meat there.  You need the 12mm thickness spacer of the adapter plate too.



#8 Gloyale

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 10:43 AM

I designed it that way so the installer wouldn't need to modify the engine bellhousing, Ive received no complaints of bolt  strength or failure , if someone wanted the larger bolts I can tap them bigger for you

 

Subaru has added more bolts to the bell as HP increases.  I just think M8 is just too small to be for main engine bolts.  50hp Volkswagen had stronger bolts than that.



#9 ivans imports

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 11:18 AM

when i do addaptor plate i use 4 studs two from back side and two from front side drill out threads in block and then two nuts hold to block and four studs to tranny makes it nice to line up and no potruding bolt threads. i found the trick was to only tap 3/4 of the way so stud locks at bottom works great and no locktite needed



#10 LPGsuperchargedBrumby

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 05:46 AM

when i made my adaptor plate i drilled out the threads on the engine so i could use a M10 (if i remember right) threaded into the plate...i didn't like the idea of smaller bolts theaded into the aluminium plate....in a steel plate i think it would not be a problem if you used grade 10.9 or 12 bolts



#11 Gloyale

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 10:23 AM

when i do addaptor plate i use 4 studs two from back side and two from front side drill out threads in block and then two nuts hold to block and four studs to tranny makes it nice to line up and no potruding bolt threads. i found the trick was to only tap 3/4 of the way so stud locks at bottom works great and no locktite needed

 

I install them all the way into the plate, then grind the back until the bolt is flush.  that way each of the 4 upper bolts has the maximum thread "bite"



#12 Carl B.

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 11:47 AM

Subaru has added more bolts to the bell as HP increases.  I just think M8 is just too small to be for main engine bolts.  50hp Volkswagen had stronger bolts than that.

German cars are way over engineered.  A lot of aircooled vw guys only install 3 engine bolts, even with built motors. 



#13 Gloyale

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 01:59 PM

German cars are way over engineered.  A lot of aircooled vw guys only install 3 engine bolts, even with built motors. 

 

Yeah, and a "built" VW motor makes about what a stock EJ22/25 make.  They are typically in much lighter cars than our subarus too so the load seen is lower.

 

They leave the bolt out because it's so F$#$in hard to get at behind the oil cooler.  doesn't make it good practice, and I've seen the bad results of that too.

 

I owned VWs for years before subarus.....there is no comparison.

 

Do what you want but you will wipe out your Throwout bearing, Pilot bearing, and over time the trans input shaft if your adapter plate is off center, or shifting around under load.


Edited by Gloyale, 28 September 2013 - 02:01 PM.


#14 czny

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 03:48 PM


"They leave the bolt out because it's so F$#$in hard to get at behind the oil cooler.  doesn't make it good practice, and I've seen the bad results of that too."

 

That's why VW replaced the hex heads with "D" head bolts for the uppers. Later cases had a little boss to keep them from turning. Add some dum-dum putty to the heads of the bolts so they don't move. Easy.

 

Overengineering may cost a little more time, but saves so much in failure & frustration. ;D



#15 ivans imports

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Posted 01 October 2013 - 09:45 AM

4 10/1.25 studs work well have done about 25 addaptor plates now no problems the two 10/1.25 studs come very close to eachother but do not touch eachother but is very tight to tap but doabble. And have never had a stud pull out as long as i tap it shallow






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