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Front disc brake job...


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12 replies to this topic

#1 MR_Loyale

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 10:05 PM

I am planning on doing a brake job on the front discs. I bought pads and rotors, some brake cleaner and lubricant for the pins. Is there anything else I will need?  Do I need the bearing seals? It looks like you remove the castle nut and then the hub with the rotor. Or am I reading it wrong? On all the youtube vids I saw on this the rotor appeared to be in front of the hub. I am looking at the Haynes diagram on this.

 

I hate getting into the middle of a job and having to stop to go get parts. I have never done a brake job before so that is why I am asking so many stupid questions.


Edited by MR_Loyale, 24 September 2013 - 10:05 PM.


#2 NorthWet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 01:17 AM

Pretty simple to do, and pretty much as you think.  Remove the castle nut, pull off hub with rotor, separate rotor from hub.  You might want to consider breaking loose the rotor-mount bolts (the 4 bolts you see near the studs) while the wheel is still on the ground or can be held stationary by the brake.

 

No seals needed, though you can replace the outboard bearing seal if you want or need to do so.  Sometimes the rubber pin boots and/or piston dust boot are trashed.  I have found that, at times, these are difficult to find available anywhere.

 

Remember that the caliper's pistons need t be screwed back into the calipers rather than pressed, and the piston-side brake-pad's location pin needs to slide into the gap in the center of the piston.  (Piston has to be turned to a certain orientation.)



#3 MilesFox

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 10:01 AM

Make sure the parking brake is released so you can turn the piston. Pay attention to the orientation of the axle nut and the associated washer, as they are installed in a specific order (spring washer). Putting in the spring washer backwards will cause the nut to lose torque.



#4 MR_Loyale

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:21 PM

What are the torque numbers?



#5 NorthWet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 04:23 PM

Big.  I am at work and do not have my books, but others have stated that it is 145 ft-lbs.  Other, esteemed members of the forum have said you can go up to 200 ft-lbs or so.  It is difficult to overtorque. 



#6 ruparts

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 05:58 PM

  Hi,

 I don't think there is any reason to remove the big nut,  the rotor unbolts from the hub with 4 bolts and goes back the same ,, you will need to remove the caliper bracket from the knuckle to get the rotor out,, but leave the hub  and the big nut alone,, unless you want to regrease the bearings and then you're also dealing with the axle joint as well. 

 just take the caliper and carrier off and put the new back ,  as stated by another you do have to screw in  the caliper piston  , clockwise.



#7 bratman18

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 06:19 PM

  Hi,

 I don't think there is any reason to remove the big nut,  the rotor unbolts from the hub with 4 bolts and goes back the same ,, you will need to remove the caliper bracket from the knuckle to get the rotor out,, but leave the hub  and the big nut alone,, unless you want to regrease the bearings and then you're also dealing with the axle joint as well. 

 just take the caliper and carrier off and put the new back ,  as stated by another you do have to screw in  the caliper piston  , clockwise.

The rotor will not fit of over the hub. You have to remove the axle nut, then the hub/rotor assembly. Remove the 4 hub/rotor bolts, and then do the reverse to assemble.



#8 MR_Loyale

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 06:57 PM

Well I got the driver side wheel off, removed the caliper took out the pads. They look almost new. Rotors are smooth as a baby bottom. Not really much for me to do I guess.  But I do get a squeal from the brakes. That is what made me think I needed them fixed. 

 

Is this just a glaze I should remove with some light sanding?



#9 MR_Loyale

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 07:11 PM

Driver side outer pad:

 

102_0507.jpg

 

Inner pad:

 

102_0508.jpg

 

Rotor:

 

102_0509.jpg



#10 Gloyale

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 08:27 PM

Rotors not turned on the last brake job and/or cheapie pads.

 

At any rate I see alot of little rock/dust embedded into that rotor.

 

Also, it's starting to get wet for the first time in a while around the PNW here, that alone can contributue to brake squeal.  Seriously, I've inspected 4 cars this week that came in "for brakes" on;y to tell them their brakes are fine.....just cheaply done last time, and now squealing while wet.

 

If you got money your sick of looking at, then turn the rotors and get premium pads.


Edited by Gloyale, 26 September 2013 - 08:28 PM.


#11 MilesFox

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 09:54 PM

take some 100 grit and sand down the rotors, clean off the dust, and lubricate the pads where they slide on the metal clips in the bracket and where they meet the face of the piston. ARe the metal shims present?

 

I wouldn't be so quick to discard these brakes, but run the down for a bit and plan on new pads and turn the rotors later. If all you got is squeaking, i think a clean and grease will do.

 

Make this decision based on if you want to spend the money now, or later.



#12 MR_Loyale

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 10:12 PM

take some 100 grit and sand down the rotors, clean off the dust, and lubricate the pads where they slide on the metal clips in the bracket and where they meet the face of the piston. ARe the metal shims present?

 

I wouldn't be so quick to discard these brakes, but run the down for a bit and plan on new pads and turn the rotors later. If all you got is squeaking, i think a clean and grease will do.

 

Make this decision based on if you want to spend the money now, or later.

 

Funny you should say that. I already did exactly what you just said. Just got back from testing them and they grab better than they did when the last shop did them. I made sure I lubed all the moving clip surfaces, cleaned and lubricated the pins too. Scuffed the rotor and the pads and put them back in. I have way better stopping force now. I almost could lock them up I think.

 

There were no shims behind the pads. I am letting it sit for now and will try another test drive later to see if it squeals. I had to do some real hard stopping to break them in before they really started grabbing well. Thanks for all the help and advice. I really appreciate it.



#13 MR_Loyale

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 10:16 PM

Rotors not turned on the last brake job and/or cheapie pads.

 

At any rate I see alot of little rock/dust embedded into that rotor.

 

Also, it's starting to get wet for the first time in a while around the PNW here, that alone can contributue to brake squeal.  Seriously, I've inspected 4 cars this week that came in "for brakes" on;y to tell them their brakes are fine.....just cheaply done last time, and now squealing while wet.

 

If you got money your sick of looking at, then turn the rotors and get premium pads.

 

They probably are cheapie pads but I can assure you it wasn't a cheap job. Midas last did those brakes and charged me $800. I was prepared to replaced the pads and rotors (bought em too). But when I took it apart it wasn't necessary. If the squealing returns and is simply a result of crap pads, I will live with it until my next changeout is due.

 

What are the best pads and rotors to use?






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