MikeyDoubleDEE Posted September 25, 2013 Share Posted September 25, 2013 Ok so I have a 98 subaru impreza l with the EJ22. Bought it with the cruise control not working. I found a limit switch on the clutch pedal. I took all that apart to find the switch was in good working order. The stick on the steering wheel (functions: Set/decel, Accel/Resume, and cancel). I took the cruise control stick out and tested the continuity with a digital voltmeter to find that the I do, in fact, get a continuity signal when I actuate the accel and decel funtions. My assumption then, is that the cruise control stick is also in working order. The cruise button on the dash lights up when I push it. I know you have to accelerate to 25mph (as stated in the owners manual). And the cruise control fuse is good. I DONT UNDERSTAND! Has anyone had any weird issues with their cruise control that may be able to provide some intelligent input on this subject? p.s. my horn also does not work. This may be completely unrelated but I thought I would throw that in here. Thanks!! MDD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyDoubleDEE Posted September 25, 2013 Author Share Posted September 25, 2013 I hooked up my horn directly to the battery, the horn device does work and makes a beep. I hooked up test leads to each of the black wires (one at a time) going to the horn device and put the other lead of the multimeter to ground. I had a second person push the horn on the steering wheel; neither wire gave me any voltage. Also, my air bag light is on in my gauge cluster. I am starting to think that I dont have any power going to anything in the wiring harness that is on the steering wheel behind the air bag module. Just wanted to add more background. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted September 25, 2013 Share Posted September 25, 2013 A common problem is that the clutch and brake switches develop a gap to their stops. The common fix that I have heard is to attach pennies/dimes to the stop to act as shims to eliminate the gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 25, 2013 Share Posted September 25, 2013 Bad clock spring. Clock spring is the ribbon cable that transfers all of the electricity for the horn, cruise buttons, and airbag. Have to pull the wheel off and its the first thing you'll see. I think they're pretty expensive new, but a junkyard clock spring assembly is a gamble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyDoubleDEE Posted September 26, 2013 Author Share Posted September 26, 2013 Thank you guys. The bad clock spring idea sounds very plausible. Im going to have to give that a look! NorthWet, correct me if I'm wrong, but if the brake switch fails to get closed by releasing the brake pedal, wouldn't the tail lights always be on? Or are the tail lights signaled by a different input other than the brake switch? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 "limit" switch on the clutch pedal lands on a little rubber stop. That stop often wears away and is gone. Take a look at that limit switch and make sure it's actually getting pushed in. It should be closed circuit when depressed, and open when the clutch is pushed in (switch pin unloaded) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 I hooked up my horn directly to the battery, the horn device does work and makes a beep. I hooked up test leads to each of the black wires (one at a time) going to the horn device and put the other lead of the multimeter to ground. I had a second person push the horn on the steering wheel; neither wire gave me any voltage. Also, my air bag light is on in my gauge cluster. I am starting to think that I dont have any power going to anything in the wiring harness that is on the steering wheel behind the air bag module. Just wanted to add more background. Thanks Horn has voltage always. the wire that is hooked to the horn through the steering wheel is the GROUND side of that circuit. HOwever, you should find voltage on both wires in that circuit (horn hooked up) and one side of the circuit should drop to ground when the horn button is pressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyDoubleDEE Posted September 26, 2013 Author Share Posted September 26, 2013 Regarding the clutch limit switch...the plastic or rubber plug was completely gone. So I put an M5 SHCS in the hole and a jam nut to hold it in place. Should work out well. I am going to take a look at this clock spring thing-a-ma-jig. I have never encountered this component yet in my history of vehicle repair and maintenance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 Regarding the clutch limit switch...the plastic or rubber plug was completely gone. So I put an M5 SHCS in the hole and a jam nut to hold it in place. Should work out well. I am going to take a look at this clock spring thing-a-ma-jig. I have never encountered this component yet in my history of vehicle repair and maintenance. Plastic plug gone is the #1 cause of non-working cruise I've encountered. Hope it fixed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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