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Rear Wheel Alignment


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8 replies to this topic

#1 rrgrr

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 08:11 PM

Went to the alignment shop -a trusted local, and he hadn't seen an old suby for a while but said he couldn't -or wouldn't change it. However the rear toe out is a little extreme. He told me to correct it I would loosen the 3 bolts on the plate that connects the torsion bar & see where it settles  -and good luck with it! I've just done CV's and lower ball joints, lifted it 2", and put 15" wheels w/~26" tires on. Does anyone know how to correct this?

 

Here are the numbers:

LF Camber 1.2; 0.3 Caster; -0.02 Toe

RF Camber 1.1; 0.2 Caster; -0.9 Toe

 

LR Camber 0.8; -0.50 Toe

RR Camber 1.1; -0.66 Toe

 

I can live with the front, but I am getting a lot of torque steer -to the right when I accelerate, and it sort of swings back when I let off. Seems like one side is pulling harder than the other. It drives and rolls good and straight, but the steering wheel is kind of jerky doing that when I gas it.

 

Any suggestions?



#2 Crazyeights

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 09:45 PM

Try checking the radius arm bushings in the front and the 2 bolts that connect the radius arms to the lower control arms for torque steer, assuming all of the other basics are good. Make sure the struts are good as well.  Not sure on the rear, other than the 3 bolts he refers to.


Edited by Crazyeights, 03 October 2013 - 09:46 PM.


#3 rrgrr

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 12:12 AM

Does anyone have a source for radius arm bushings and sway bar bushings? Those are shot and am searching or considering modifying whatever I can make work. 

 

The rear will wear out the tires if left as is.



#4 Crazyeights

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 12:21 AM

http://www.rockauto.com/



#5 Uberoo

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 08:33 PM

another option is to fill the bushings with urethane window weld.Assuming yours still have their shape but have gotten soft the window weld is a great fix.The respective parts have to be off the car for access.Once they are off pour/pump in the window weld in layers so a layer is completely dry before adding the next etc...



#6 rrgrr

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 08:22 AM

Thanks, found em under 'strut rod bushings'...

 

I am a little nervous about trying to correct the rear by loosening those plate bolts to the torsion bar -I mean I don't see how that will change the Toe -it doesn't seem like there's any lateral gain there without shimming it or something.

 

Can someone please advise me on this?



#7 PoorManzImpreza

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 10:25 AM

There is play in those three holes that control the rear alignment both camber and toe.. Caboobaroo (Russ) is the resident EA alignment expert..

 

HTH

Kaz

Thanks, found em under 'strut rod bushings'...

 

I am a little nervous about trying to correct the rear by loosening those plate bolts to the torsion bar -I mean I don't see how that will change the Toe -it doesn't seem like there's any lateral gain there without shimming it or something.

 

Can someone please advise me on this?



#8 86 Wonder Wedge

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 10:44 AM

The FSM (the EA82 one) has a section on it. It is a mfg used technique even thought they acknowledge it's not FULLY adjustable, but it's enough to massage the alignment into a better state. But with those rear toe numbers, I might look into rear control arm bushings if the bolt adjustment doesn't pan out.

 

But my question is, how does he expect YOU to adjust these? The advice for you to do it and "see where it settles" just seems lazy to me... You're not going to eyeball a 0.5 of a degree change.


Edited by 86 Wonder Wedge, 08 October 2013 - 10:44 AM.


#9 rrgrr

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 10:01 AM

The FSM (the EA82 one) has a section on it. It is a mfg used technique even thought they acknowledge it's not FULLY adjustable, but it's enough to massage the alignment into a better state. But with those rear toe numbers, I might look into rear control arm bushings if the bolt adjustment doesn't pan out.

 

But my question is, how does he expect YOU to adjust these? The advice for you to do it and "see where it settles" just seems lazy to me... You're not going to eyeball a 0.5 of a degree change.

 

Still haven't tried it. I've been looking at the FSM page, but haven't been brave enough to take it apart. Can't really see the "way-outness" that the numbers read with my eye. Putting a few hundred miles on it as is and will try to read tire wear.

 

 

 

Very doubtful I could correct it by eye or tape measure -considered trying it and taking it back to the rack to see if it improves...

If I can find someone who has seen one of these in the last decade...






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