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93 ej 2.2 short block


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22 replies to this topic

#1 92loyale59

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 07:46 PM

so today i removed the heads off my ej 2.2 that i am swapping into my loyale. when i removed the heads i saw lots of grime sitting on the inside of the cylinder walls and around and on the piston. also the cylinder walls are terrible scratched i would say. im not sure what my options are for fixing it or if i just need to replace it or what? . any help would be really appreciated, thanks

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#2 MilesFox

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Posted 11 October 2013 - 09:43 AM

Clean it out best you can, with air, a towel, what have you. IF there is any remaining, lube the cylinder with ATF, and run the piston up and down, and wipe off anythng that sticks to the walls. Do this enough time to be satisfactory.



#3 92loyale59

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Posted 11 October 2013 - 07:32 PM

will that remove the scratches or what ?



#4 MilesFox

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Posted 11 October 2013 - 08:43 PM

Looks lik you jut got gungk sitting there from corroded coolant.

 

What i am talking aobut with the ATF is it will lube the cylinders and help clean out the crud. This way you dont score the walls, and the rings have something to scrape with. Putting ATF in any cylinders is a good idea to turn over any block that has sat with no heads. You can use engine oil, but ATF is thinner and has detergents. ATF is wonderful stuff for clever applications.



#5 92loyale59

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Posted 11 October 2013 - 09:42 PM

alright thanks a lot i will give that a shot. i actually just disassembled that engine yesterday though and it had been running good apparently before that. i just bought it used. but there is already a large amount of scuffs on the cylinder walls . does that mean it needs to be honed or will it run fine if just cleaned and re sealed



#6 Crazyeights

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 03:39 AM

All I see from your pic is the factory cross hatch marks on the cylinder wall. This is a good thing. Clean them up as suggested and go from there.



#7 92loyale59

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 12:51 PM

oh well thats a good thing to hear . i will just continue to clean the short block and the heads up and i guess just re seal it with new timing parts and ect. thanks for the help milesfox and crazyeights



#8 franklinstower

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 12:54 PM

From the looks of those cylinders, I can bet your oil control rings are gummed up/frozen.  Most likely that engine burns through some oil.  Since your in this far, I would pull the pistons, (keep them matched to the bore they came from)  clean the pistons & cylinders and put in a set of new rings.  You can get NPR rings on fleabay for $40.  

 

Paul



#9 92loyale59

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Posted 14 October 2013 - 11:20 AM

From the looks of those cylinders, I can bet your oil control rings are gummed up/frozen.  Most likely that engine burns through some oil.  Since your in this far, I would pull the pistons, (keep them matched to the bore they came from)  clean the pistons & cylinders and put in a set of new rings.  You can get NPR rings on fleabay for $40.  

 

Paul

so if i replace the rings would i also need to replace oil control rings or are those the same things . thanks



#10 franklinstower

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Posted 14 October 2013 - 09:27 PM

yes, buy a set of rings - the come with 3 rings per cyl - something like this:  http://www.ebay.com/...5461183&vxp=mtr

 

make sure you follow the factory service manual for the end gap spacing etc.  You can find the service manual on the web in a pdf.  

 

The subaru part number for the ring set is:  12033AA210 (i just happen to have the parts manual sitting next to me!)



#11 92loyale59

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 12:16 AM

sweet thanks a lot. i will probably go that route then. do i need to hone the cylinder out at all ?



#12 johnceggleston

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 07:46 AM

my initial reaction was to vacuum it out, put on new head gaskets and go.

if the cylinder walls are not rusted the rings are probably not.

it looks like the fire ring on the gaskets is the issue.

 

but maybe pulling one piston to check the rings would not be a bad idea.

although i don't know exactly how to do that.

and i think it might be a lot of work.

 

but if you are going to have to split the case, i wouldn't  bother,

just find a different engine or block.


Edited by johnceggleston, 15 October 2013 - 07:52 AM.


#13 MilesFox

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 08:49 AM

My engine had rustyed cylinder walls as the engine i used had sat in the back of a junk car and water got past the vlaves. The advice i gave you is what i did with it, slapped the heads on and now the engnie has been a daily driver fro 9 months, does not smoke or use excessive oil( beyond what a subaru is expected to use up)



#14 92loyale59

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 09:25 AM

alright well for the sake of getting this ready before timberline opens i will probably clean it up to the very best i can and just throw it together . then on the side i will probably start building a fraken engine. thanks a lot of the help every one. if i find some where that will do it pretty cheap then i will replace the rings



#15 franklinstower

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 04:59 PM

fyi - the factory service and parts manual can be downloaded here:

 

http://www.finleyweb...umentation.aspx

 

 



#16 92loyale59

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Posted 21 October 2013 - 01:31 PM

i was wondering if felpro head gaskets are a good gasket for this engine and also if i can reuse headblots. i have heard lots of different things about both those so i figure i should ask here. thanks



#17 johnceggleston

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Posted 21 October 2013 - 05:32 PM

yes, reuse head bolts.

 

felpro gaskets are fine as long as they are current , not old stock.



#18 92loyale59

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Posted 22 October 2013 - 12:54 PM

thanks a lot . i should have this back together befor too long. does anybody know a great machine shop near portland / clackamas area that can resurface the heads off my 2.2



#19 franklinstower

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 03:10 PM

Contact member General Disorder (he is in Portland or the 'Couv, can't remember) - he has the info you need.



#20 92loyale59

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 01:11 PM

Contact member General Disorder (he is in Portland or the 'Couv, can't remember) - he has the info you need.

thanks a lot. i already have been having GD do the wiring for my EJ swap along with answering all the random questions that i have . but i did end up asking him and the method he suggested was doing it my self with sand paper . so thats what im doing today after i get the waterpump and oil pan back on



#21 92loyale59

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 09:00 PM

do i need to re torque the head bolts after i run the engine for a little bit



#22 johnceggleston

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 09:49 AM

no, it is not part of the proper procedure.



#23 92loyale59

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 01:13 PM

no, it is not part of the proper procedure.

sweet thanks a lot. i didn't think it was cause i have never heard that but i was just checking






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