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Suspension/Coils for Loyale Alternatives?

Loyale Suspension EA82 Struts Coils Springs

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46 replies to this topic

#26 GlenSz

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Posted 18 October 2013 - 08:40 PM

got the kit here: http://subarugllifted.webs.com/

 

this one: http://subarugllifte...ts/show/2020636



#27 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 18 October 2013 - 10:48 PM

The link says:

 

Ea 82 2 inch lift kit

 

2 strut blocks 2 engine crossmember blocks, six transmission blocks and rear drop brackets

 

 

The Kit seems very Complete and well built.

 

According to that, it included the Crossmember Blocks, so...

 

Did you installed them along the Strut top Blocks?



#28 GlenSz

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 12:32 PM

The link says:

 

 

 

The Kit seems very Complete and well built.

 

According to that, it included the Crossmember Blocks, so...

 

Did you installed them along the Strut top Blocks?

 

 

when i first got the kit, it only had the crossmember blocks and the rear drop brackets.

 

i emailed the guy and he said he forgot to include the crossmember blocks, which he sent a week later. but they were never installed before i removed the lift. 

 

still haven't gotten the 6 trans blocks either.



#29 El Presidente

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 05:45 PM

IMG_20130927_152339_334_zpsa4b89357.jpg

 

To clarify, that is %100 backwards. The bottoms should be towards the center of the car and the tops wider, like this \\ //. It seems backwards, but its not. By putting them on correctly, your pushing the strut straight down...the way you have it, your pushing the strut down and out, giving you bad camber. 

 

If you put them in right, along with the rest of the lift, it will have normal camber and handle well on-road. If you have a 2" lift you don't need cross member drops, but it helps. I've run 2" lifted ea82's with no cross member drop as daily drivers just fine. If its a 3" lift, you really only need to drop the front cross member 1" and leave the tranny/radius mounts alone.

 

Back to the spring issue...just put that aside for now. You really only need different springs for special circumstances, and your isn't one of them. If you need new ea82 springs, go to orielly's and get new or take some off a gently used jy car, but start with new struts. I know you don't have a lot in the junkyards out there, but some one on the board could help you out. If your running 26-27's tires on a no-lift ea82, your gonna rub..thats life. If you don't want it to rub, put a lift on, or take the tires off, but don't expect new springs to help.

 

Josh



#30 bratman18

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Posted 20 October 2013 - 05:52 PM

^What he said. Like I said, you need them put on so that the top of the strut is pushed towards the center of the car. You had them put on so they were pushed out away from the car. You had them backwards and that was your problem. Install them the other way and your camber will be much better!



#31 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 21 October 2013 - 11:47 PM

I Agree with El Presidente and Bratman 18, they were installed Backwards.

 

You need to turn those Strut Blocks 180º and re-install them...

 

Why don't you try that and let us Know the results?

 

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 21 October 2013 - 11:49 PM.


#32 GlenSz

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Posted 15 November 2013 - 03:50 AM

so here's the latest on my lift sitch:

 

decided to not put it back in, even if i now know that the front strut blocks were in backwards and if switched would have reduced the negative camber situation because if feel like even though i think it might not ever return to it's original state before i started attempting all these mods, taking it further and further away from stock would only reduce it's life-span as an everyday driving car. 

 

sure i want it to perform better than an average car, or what i mean is i want special performance when using it (even if only rarely, probably less than 5% of it's overall use) for it's 4WD capability so i can qualify for this permit i need to drive on the sand/beach to go to a fishing spot i like, but i want to keep it in the best condition for daily use, which i figured a lift kit would detract from. 

 

plus, i'm gonna sell the lift kit on here to recoup some of what i spent in this evolving saga. it's an interesting tale at this point. 

 

after taking out the lift, and regain some more positive camber, the 15" pugs w/ 205/75 tires on it were rubbing real bad, so first i tried taking of the the mud flaps and banging some stuff outta the way in the front wells, then finally resorting to cutting a bit out and patching it up w/ diamond tread, but still got a lot of rubbing, particularly bad w/ the all the rough road surfaces here. http://s406.photobuc...e Camber Issues

 

also, the alignment was pretty off, the camber in the front and back being very different, and i think putting in the back strut spacer put a lot of stress on the rear cross members which were rusting and crumbling away on the ends where the where the outter arm assembly connects. so i reinforced those by getting a pipe slightly smaller in diameter welded in on both sides. take a look at the before and after pics: http://s406.photobuc...le frame repair

 

then, i brought it back to the place i bought the set of used tires and thought maybe i could get a smaller set w/ the same width, and they said it was my soggy front suspension, which i already knew was kinda shot, especially on the driverside, worst on the front driverside. 

 

so i replaced the struts all around, but not the coils, which i couldn't find as easily. 

 

still, tons of rubbing, but thought new struts would be good anyway, so wasn't too upset, but still frustrated w/ the rubbing which by that point was shredding the tires a bit on the edges. so i brought i back to the used tire place, showed them i redid the struts and said there was still too much rub, so they agreed to let me switch down to a set of 205/65's (for free, no charge even though the 75's were a little damaged) which were much better tires, seemingly, and closer to a matching set of 4, with only one being a different tire from the rest. http://s406.photobuc...ry/Loyale Tires

 

these smaller tires finally eliminated virtually all rubbing issues. i think the extra lift from the new struts and the cutting from the wells also helped.

 

the final thing was to do the coil springs, cause the front left coil spring definitely was more compressed than the passenger side, maybe from the previous bad front driverside strut, which was definitely the weaker of the two. 

 

since i already did the struts all around and didn't need the whole suspension assembly (i looked for them used at a number of junk yards in my area and literally got laughed at when i said, "'94 tempo" so i figured i'd order the Napa (rather than stiffer and more progressive MOOG version) ones brand new which only cost about $80 for the set. 

 

but now that they're in, they've raised the front almost as much as the lift did (no turns were removed from the coils) and the camber is at a pretty negative degree in the front, whereas the back seems to be almost positive to excess. 

 

i wanted to get new coils all around and finally get it all aligned (found a good alignment shop that i can bring it to w/ the special instructions  for doing the back w/ a piece of wood now that the crossmembers are reinforced and can take the bending and won't just toe the front) so i'd have new full suspension, all around, decent tires on the pugs w/ plenty of space so there'd be no rubbing, but these coils are pressing the wheels down too much and i'm about ready to put the old springs back in, and forget doing the coil springs and just get it aligned and be done with it all. 

 

any suggestions on finding front and back coil springs? even a used set from another EA82 that doesn't have a mooshy driver side one, as a possibility? 

 

2 steps forward, 1 step back. at least theres some progress, i just don't want to do any more harm than i've already done taking her outta stock. 

 

thoughts? 

 

looking better at least?

 

-Glen

 

I Agree with El Presidente and Bratman 18, they were installed Backwards.

 

You need to turn those Strut Blocks 180º and re-install them...

 

Why don't you try that and let us Know the results?

 

Kind Regards.

 

 

^What he said. Like I said, you need them put on so that the top of the strut is pushed towards the center of the car. You had them put on so they were pushed out away from the car. You had them backwards and that was your problem. Install them the other way and your camber will be much better!

 

 

To clarify, that is %100 backwards. The bottoms should be towards the center of the car and the tops wider, like this \\ //. It seems backwards, but its not. By putting them on correctly, your pushing the strut straight down...the way you have it, your pushing the strut down and out, giving you bad camber. 

 

If you put them in right, along with the rest of the lift, it will have normal camber and handle well on-road. If you have a 2" lift you don't need cross member drops, but it helps. I've run 2" lifted ea82's with no cross member drop as daily drivers just fine. If its a 3" lift, you really only need to drop the front cross member 1" and leave the tranny/radius mounts alone.

 

Back to the spring issue...just put that aside for now. You really only need different springs for special circumstances, and your isn't one of them. If you need new ea82 springs, go to orielly's and get new or take some off a gently used jy car, but start with new struts. I know you don't have a lot in the junkyards out there, but some one on the board could help you out. If your running 26-27's tires on a no-lift ea82, your gonna rub..thats life. If you don't want it to rub, put a lift on, or take the tires off, but don't expect new springs to help.

 

Josh



#33 WoodsWagon

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Posted 15 November 2013 - 04:39 PM

Couple things. First, you're frustrated about what's not working out and you're shotgunning solutions at them without thinking. That's just going to lead to more aggravation. You're already using the sunk costs argument to justify throwing more good money after bad and still not fixing the problems.

Second, you've got a serious safety issue from the sounds of it in the rear suspension. You described it at positve camber. That would be the tops of the wheels leaning out \  /. Negative camber is the tops leaning in /  \. Negative camber in the rear and a rusty rear crossmember usually means only one thing, the crossmember is folding up as its structure is failing. This can happen lift or no lift, it's a rust thing. And it's dangerous because if it tears off the wheel will cock over one way or the other and you will likely loose control and either go into oncoming traffic or off the side of the road.

 

And finally 3rd. Springs won't stop rubbing. At full bump on compression the strut will still bottom out at the same point, it will just take a harder bump to get it there. Since it can still compress to the same place, the tire will still rub. This is the point of the lift blocks that move the whole strut assembly down, now the maximum stuffed position of the wheel is however many inches you lift block is further down out of the wheel well so it won't rub. Struts also don't change the ride height as they wear out, the car just bounces around more.

 

Too stiff springs will make the car ride like a brick and keeping the suspension mostly extended all the time means there isn't any downtravel or droop left so the strut topps out frequently and that is bad for it and harsh on the ride plus reduces control. Bad things all the way round. If you cut coils off the springs, it will make them even stiffer, but it will drop your ride height.  The tempo springs are for cars with a heavy front bumper/winch/engine/skidplates ect which is overloading the stock springs and making them sag.

 

If you want this car right, you need to replace the rear crossmember with a good used one first. Then, put the stock springs back on. Then, put the lift blocks back in the right way so your camber is correct and you get no rubbing. These are all projects you can do with cheap hand tools from harbor freight. Get jackstands and use them.



#34 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 15 November 2013 - 08:50 PM

I Agree with WoodsWagon.

 

 

Also, about this:

 

... i want to keep it in the best condition for daily use, which i figured a lift kit would detract from. ...

 

 

Very kindly let me tell you that I drive my 2" lifted 1985 Subaru EA82 "BumbleBeast" Wagon, with beefy 25" tires as daily driver (since years ago) during week days; and as offroading machine during weekends; and I will Never go back to Stock suspension, Never.

 

My Subie feels identically safe and Handles the Same than it used with Stock height; but beefier tires and stiffer suspension added more "Sporty" Control to it; because the Lift kit keeps the Stock Geometry, while the Stiffer Springs I used were from used cars at a Junk Yards; so they are not as stiff as Brand New ones.

 

Very Respectfully let me Suggest you an Idea: if you could not lift nor align your subaru properly... Why don't you take it to a "Professional" USMB member who could help you?

 

I Bet that more than one USMB Member will be Glad to do that Lift / Alignment job with You... 

 

I would help you if I wouldn't live so far away...

 

Good Luck,

Kind Regards.



#35 GlenSz

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Posted 16 November 2013 - 11:43 AM

I Agree with WoodsWagon.

 

 

Also, about this:

 

 

 

Very kindly let me tell you that I drive my 2" lifted 1985 Subaru EA82 "BumbleBeast" Wagon, with beefy 25" tires as daily driver (since years ago) during week days; and as offroading machine during weekends; and I will Never go back to Stock suspension, Never.

 

My Subie feels identically safe and Handles the Same than it used with Stock height; but beefier tires and stiffer suspension added more "Sporty" Control to it; because the Lift kit keeps the Stock Geometry, while the Stiffer Springs I used were from used cars at a Junk Yards; so they are not as stiff as Brand New ones.

 

Very Respectfully let me Suggest you an Idea: if you could not lift nor align your subaru properly... Why don't you take it to a "Professional" USMB member who could help you?

 

I Bet that more than one USMB Member will be Glad to do that Lift / Alignment job with You... 

 

I would help you if I wouldn't live so far away...

 

Good Luck,

Kind Regards.

I would love to take it to someone on here that was a "professional" mechanic who had lots of experience w/ older subies, but where i am in Brooklyn, and the East Coast in general, i've found only a few members that even live around here, let alone are real mechanics. i already did the oil pump and successfully eliminated my TOD thanks to the help of @175eya (take a look at the thread i posted w/ the pics http://www.ultimates...ose-and-repair/)

 

He's the closest i've come to finding another member around here that's a mechanic. Thanks Steve, you've been really helpful. 



#36 GlenSz

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Posted 17 November 2013 - 11:24 PM

Couple things. First, you're frustrated about what's not working out and you're shotgunning solutions at them without thinking. That's just going to lead to more aggravation. You're already using the sunk costs argument to justify throwing more good money after bad and still not fixing the problems.

Second, you've got a serious safety issue from the sounds of it in the rear suspension. You described it at positve camber. That would be the tops of the wheels leaning out \  /. Negative camber is the tops leaning in /  \. Negative camber in the rear and a rusty rear crossmember usually means only one thing, the crossmember is folding up as its structure is failing. This can happen lift or no lift, it's a rust thing. And it's dangerous because if it tears off the wheel will cock over one way or the other and you will likely loose control and either go into oncoming traffic or off the side of the road.

 

And finally 3rd. Springs won't stop rubbing. At full bump on compression the strut will still bottom out at the same point, it will just take a harder bump to get it there. Since it can still compress to the same place, the tire will still rub. This is the point of the lift blocks that move the whole strut assembly down, now the maximum stuffed position of the wheel is however many inches you lift block is further down out of the wheel well so it won't rub. Struts also don't change the ride height as they wear out, the car just bounces around more.

 

Too stiff springs will make the car ride like a brick and keeping the suspension mostly extended all the time means there isn't any downtravel or droop left so the strut topps out frequently and that is bad for it and harsh on the ride plus reduces control. Bad things all the way round. If you cut coils off the springs, it will make them even stiffer, but it will drop your ride height.  The tempo springs are for cars with a heavy front bumper/winch/engine/skidplates ect which is overloading the stock springs and making them sag.

 

If you want this car right, you need to replace the rear crossmember with a good used one first. Then, put the stock springs back on. Then, put the lift blocks back in the right way so your camber is correct and you get no rubbing. These are all projects you can do with cheap hand tools from harbor freight. Get jackstands and use them.

 

not sure you saw the pics of the rear crossmember that's now repaired by welding in new piece of pipe that's was slightly smaller in diameter and shoved inside the rusting ends of either side of the crossmember. so that safety issue is not longer a concern. 

 

i'm more worried about the negative camber of the rear wheels and the positive camber in the front that came from the new Tempo coil springs i put in cause i couldn't find original subaru ones. 

 

not only is the ride very bouncy (which i don't mind) but i'm riding more on the outside edge of the tire and it sounds like i've got some strain on the axels cause there's rhythmic clicking when i'm turning around corners. 

 

definitely gonna put the stock ones back in, even if they're not perfect. 

 

i really just want to find someone that can help me do the alignment right, so the camber is the same and at 0 degrees, back and front, and i'll be happy to just drive it as is, even i have new struts all around, but the same coils all around. 

 

i'm not getting any rubbing anymore with the wheel-well mods and the new struts. 

 

i'm almost considering putting my 13" stock wheels back on during the rest of the year when i'm not using my 4WD/off-road beach permit. 

 

probably want to keep on the pugs i went to all the trouble to get, but will probably also want to sell the lift-kit to someone on here that wants it, since i took it out and am very hesitant to put it back in since i don't really need it even when i'm in the sand on the beach. if i put it back in, it would be almost entirely for aesthetic reasons. 

 

guess tracking down a set of front and rear coil springs from another EA82 is gonna be tough, even on here. i'll definitely do a post looking for another mechanic in my area that's maybe got their own garage and a history of experience w/ these older subies. 

 

i can leave it with them and use my '88 toyota all-trac wagon, my "beater", so there's no rush and it's finally done right. 

 

 

 

I Agree with WoodsWagon.

 

 

Also, about this:

 

 

 

Very kindly let me tell you that I drive my 2" lifted 1985 Subaru EA82 "BumbleBeast" Wagon, with beefy 25" tires as daily driver (since years ago) during week days; and as offroading machine during weekends; and I will Never go back to Stock suspension, Never.

 

My Subie feels identically safe and Handles the Same than it used with Stock height; but beefier tires and stiffer suspension added more "Sporty" Control to it; because the Lift kit keeps the Stock Geometry, while the Stiffer Springs I used were from used cars at a Junk Yards; so they are not as stiff as Brand New ones.

 

Very Respectfully let me Suggest you an Idea: if you could not lift nor align your subaru properly... Why don't you take it to a "Professional" USMB member who could help you?

 

I Bet that more than one USMB Member will be Glad to do that Lift / Alignment job with You... 

 

I would help you if I wouldn't live so far away...

 

Good Luck,

Kind Regards.



#37 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 08:41 AM

Well... First you wrote that your Camber issues were due the Lift Kit, then you wrote that said issues were due the Tempo coil Springs... very kindly let me tell you that the 180º inverted camber correction install on the Strut top Blocks was the Cause, but coil springs not; because they has nothing to do with camber; so maybe your subie is in dire need of an Alignment.

 

Kind Regards.



#38 oregoncoast

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 09:35 AM

not sure you saw the pics of the rear crossmember that's now repaired by welding in new piece of pipe that's was slightly smaller in diameter and shoved inside the rusting ends of either side of the crossmember. so that safety issue is not longer a concern. 

 

i'm more worried about the negative camber of the rear wheels and the positive camber in the front that came from the new Tempo coil springs i put in cause i couldn't find original subaru ones. 

 

not only is the ride very bouncy (which i don't mind) but i'm riding more on the outside edge of the tire and it sounds like i've got some strain on the axels cause there's rhythmic clicking when i'm turning around corners. 

 

definitely gonna put the stock ones back in, even if they're not perfect. 

 

i really just want to find someone that can help me do the alignment right, so the camber is the same and at 0 degrees, back and front, and i'll be happy to just drive it as is, even i have new struts all around, but the same coils all around. 

 

i'm not getting any rubbing anymore with the wheel-well mods and the new struts. 

 

i'm almost considering putting my 13" stock wheels back on during the rest of the year when i'm not using my 4WD/off-road beach permit. 

 

probably want to keep on the pugs i went to all the trouble to get, but will probably also want to sell the lift-kit to someone on here that wants it, since i took it out and am very hesitant to put it back in since i don't really need it even when i'm in the sand on the beach. if i put it back in, it would be almost entirely for aesthetic reasons. 

 

guess tracking down a set of front and rear coil springs from another EA82 is gonna be tough, even on here. i'll definitely do a post looking for another mechanic in my area that's maybe got their own garage and a history of experience w/ these older subies. 

 

i can leave it with them and use my '88 toyota all-trac wagon, my "beater", so there's no rush and it's finally done right. 

 

Honestly, these guys have given you the solution to the problem you described but you are choosing not to listen.  Trying to solve the problem and keep the Pug wheels just because they were a hassle and expensive to obtain is not really a sound decision.  Many of us here spent good money on parts that later just didn't work as we wanted them to.  Also, you don't need to find someone who is a "real mechanic" just someone who knows about the suspension in these old subarus.  Your problems started because you put the lift blocks in backward and then it snowballed from there.  You still seem to think that having them in backward would not have caused your camber problems even though everyone here that has experience with them said it would cause the issue.  You are going to continue throwing bad money into this car.  

 

And the fact that you welded a repair on important rear suspension components is very concerning, given that your knowledge of suspension is limited.  A "bouncy" car is  not just a comfort issue, it is a safety issue. It is unsafe if the wheels can't stay on the ground.  So basically you have front wheels that are not staying in contact with the ground and a rear end that is out of alignment and welded together by a non professional welder with no experience welding suspension components. This sounds to me like a recipe for disaster especially if this is being used as a daily driver.  On some of the cobbed together rock crawling projects you see on here, a suspension failure just means a bad day towing the car out.  At highway speeds, a suspension failure means a much, much worse day.

 

I understand your frustration, and I see many people feeling the need to alter their car from stock.  The fact is they are great cars stock.  Sounds like you had some minor scraping on the sand on the very few occasions you would go to the beach; that does not sound like a problem that really needed attention.  BTW, the larger tires also affect other components other than just rubbing.  

 

Go back to full stock, sell the pug wheels and lift kit, use that money to get some good non-rusted rear suspension components and drive it till you have grandkids.  Good luck.



#39 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 01:08 PM

Maybe you'll find my question Foolish, but still I'll let it Go:

 

Have you "Moved" (driven) your Subaru after the Front suspension changes?

 

Because if it is still in the Place where you mounted, it could seem to keep the Camber issues.

 

The Wheels will move to a more "Confortable" position after the car is driven a Little.

 

 

... you don't need to find someone who is a "real mechanic" just someone who knows about the suspension in these old subarus.  ...

 

 

... Your problems started because you put the lift blocks in backward and then it snowballed from there.  You still seem to think that having them in backward would not have caused your camber problems even though everyone here that has experience with them said it would cause the issue. ...

 

... the fact that you welded a repair on important rear suspension components is very concerning, given that your knowledge of suspension is limited.  A "bouncy" car is  not just a comfort issue, it is a safety issue. It is unsafe if the wheels can't stay on the ground.  ...

 

Those are Words of Wisdom... :o ... Be Careful!

 

Why don't you post here Photos of your "Welding Together" job on the Rear Suspension?

 

So we could tell you if your Subie became a Risk on your Safety...

 

Maybe is good Idea to Sell the Lift Kit in order to get healthy, unwelded the Rear Suspension parts for your Subie.

 

Kind Regards.



#40 GlenSz

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 04:05 PM

Maybe you'll find my question Foolish, but still I'll let it Go:

 

Have you "Moved" (driven) your Subaru after the Front suspension changes?

 

Because if it is still in the Place where you mounted, it could seem to keep the Camber issues.

 

The Wheels will move to a more "Confortable" position after the car is driven a Little.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Those are Words of Wisdom... :o ... Be Careful!

 

Why don't you post here Photos of your "Welding Together" job on the Rear Suspension?

 

So we could tell you if your Subie became a Risk on your Safety...

 

Maybe is good Idea to Sell the Lift Kit in order to get healthy, unwelded the Rear Suspension parts for your Subie.

 

Kind Regards.

 

yeah, drove it a little bit w/ the Tempo coils in and i'm gettin some noises that sound like the axles cranking as well as the rougher, more boucey ride. here's a link to the pics of the crossmember repair: http://s406.photobuc...r?sort=2&page=1



#41 Gloyale

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Posted 19 November 2013 - 11:10 AM

You should back up to the very begining, and install the front lift blocks correctly.  The top of the strut itself should be pushed "in".  Not the top of the block.  Blocks should look like this in the car  \\  //.  This was the problem the whole time.....although dropping your crossmember and trans with that lift would help.

 

Whatever you do in the end.....(lift blocks installed correct, lift springs, both....etc...)

 

You will want to do this.

 

Front axles.......unclip the small clamp on the inboard joint.  Slide the boot up towards the trans so it isn't stretched so much.  Install new CV clamp or just a small hoseclamp.

 

This will keep the boot from being stretched all the time and prevent ripping out.

 

FYI, the rear suspension scan is from the Subaru Factory Service Manual for that model.  Pretty sure that's a scan I posted origianlly.



#42 obk25xt

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Posted 19 November 2013 - 12:13 PM

This thread is full of OP fail…...

 

ALLLLLL of the answers/advice are HERE IN PLAIN TXT…..

 

Natural selection…...

 

$0.02

 

Spencer



#43 GlenSz

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Posted 20 November 2013 - 12:40 AM

This thread is full of OP fail…...

 

ALLLLLL of the answers/advice are HERE IN PLAIN TXT…..

 

Natural selection…...

 

$0.02

 

Spencer

???

 

OP fail? 

 

not sure i understand your 2 cents.



#44 bratman18

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Posted 20 November 2013 - 04:55 AM

???

 

OP fail? 

 

not sure i understand your 2 cents.

He is saying that you have not listened to the advice that any of us have given you. We have told you from the beginning what the problem was with you car, and you haven't done anything we have suggested, instead you want to throw money at it for other items, that still won't fix the original problem.



#45 GlenSz

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Posted 20 November 2013 - 11:43 AM

He is saying that you have not listened to the advice that any of us have given you. We have told you from the beginning what the problem was with you car, and you haven't done anything we have suggested, instead you want to throw money at it for other items, that still won't fix the original problem.

 

actually, i've only been trying to execute my original plan (minimal lift and some bigger wheels), and made some mistakes along the way. decided having a lift kit in in general wasn't worth it for me, considering it wouldn't be useful to me 9 months outta the year, so instead of putting it back in the right way, decided to just keep the pugs on. my rusting crossmember was a previous condition that i only spent a little on to repair, because at that point in this process, no advice was given on that issue because i never mentioned it was a problem till i had rear alignment concerns, and i thought locating a better one and replacing it was gonna be much more work than just repair my current one. i also wanted to replace the suspension which i knew from the beginning when i bought the car was bad, so i replaced the struts, and wanted to do the coilsprings, which gives me a little bit of an increased lift without putting the kit back in and a better ride in general. i also had a little rusting around the rear wheel wells, so taking off the mudflaps and cutting out some and patching w/ diamond plate was something i thought about doing anyway, and again, not very expensive. 

all in all, hindsight is 20/20 and it sucks to have decided to try to do these mods w/out any real experience, for the sake of something i use my subes for only 3 months outta the year. bottom line, it's gonna perform best for normal road and highway use at stock, but after going to all the trouble, at least keeping the pugs on it and getting the alignment right would have me satisfied, but it's just been a pretty frustrating process to not only not get the results i want, but also to think about how if i would have just left it alone, i would be better off now, and have not spent a dime. at least my suspension is better and i can get back a little of what i put out for the kit.

and don't get me wrong, i appreciate everyone's advice here, especially those who've spent a considerable amount of time earnestly advising my on my situation, thanks @Loyale2.7Turbo

i just was reporting on the situation as it's progressed over the last few months and much of the advice on this thread has come after i've already gone past a certain point. 

 

not really sure what else to say. 

 

thanks again?

 

 

 

Maybe you'll find my question Foolish, but still I'll let it Go:

 

Have you "Moved" (driven) your Subaru after the Front suspension changes?

 

Because if it is still in the Place where you mounted, it could seem to keep the Camber issues.

 

The Wheels will move to a more "Confortable" position after the car is driven a Little.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Those are Words of Wisdom... :o ... Be Careful!

 

Why don't you post here Photos of your "Welding Together" job on the Rear Suspension?

 

So we could tell you if your Subie became a Risk on your Safety...

 

Maybe is good Idea to Sell the Lift Kit in order to get healthy, unwelded the Rear Suspension parts for your Subie.

 

Kind Regards.

 

This thread is full of OP fail…...

 

ALLLLLL of the answers/advice are HERE IN PLAIN TXT…..

 

Natural selection…...

 

$0.02

 

Spencer


Edited by GlenSz, 20 November 2013 - 11:44 AM.


#46 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 20 November 2013 - 01:27 PM

You could consider to cut one and a half turns from the Tempo coil springs, as other USMB members has done it also.

 

... thanks @Loyale2.7Turbo ...

 

You're Welcome,

 

Kind Regards.



#47 xbeerd

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 11:35 PM

You could consider to cut one and a half turns from the Tempo coil springs, as other USMB members has done it also.

 

 

You're Welcome,

 

Kind Regards.

i think you might be referring to my modified tempo spring install.  with the Moog Springs referenced in that thread i made a while back.  id' have to look what spring i used, i think the cc854

 

if he were to have stuffed the moog springs into the struts with out modification, the strut would be fully extended and have so much preload on it that it would probably pull the strut apart,  BUT, having this extension and that much load, it would add to the camber as the control arm being pushed down further. 

 

i think if the OP would have gotten everything right from the getgo, he'd have a decent setup, i daily drive my car with 2" front lift, 4" rear (due to springs, 4runner shocks, and 2" BOSS brackets).   Hell, i cleared a random spare tire that was laying in the middle of my lane on the freeway,  dont do that if a car is trailing you fairly close cuz they probably wont fair that good, LOL!.   my setup is still working great, exception being a blown rear shock (4runner shock), i blame this on the potholes all over my city. some of them are a damn foot deep. :/







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Loyale, Suspension, EA82, Struts, Coils, Springs

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