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some help with check engine codes, please?


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Poke your head under the dash and make sure the green connectors are UNPLUGGED. Those are the test mode connectors and should be left unplugged. If they're plugged in the ECM is stuck in test mode which will cause a bunch of codes to set if you try to drive the car.

Clear the codes and see what comes back.

 

4 of those code could be caused by a bad speed sensor input to the ECM. If the speedometer works the sensor circuit between the guage and ECM may be bad.

P0325 knock sensor is a common failure. About $20 for a new sensor on eBay.

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first off, thanks for your help!! I just looked under there, and there a lot of wires, but the ones with the bright green tips are indeed UNPLUGGED. So, the ECM must not be stuck in test mode, then?

Speed Sensor would make sense, the speedometer/odometer/tripometer cluster stopped moving and weren't lit up all the way...

there's also been some crazy noises underneath when driving... hence the CV shaft replacement; the inner boot was torn about 85% of the way 'round.

My heat shield for the exhaust is also rattling, so that makes it hard to determine the more important noises...

I think the pads are possibly also sticking on the caliper I took off and put back on, making yet another noise when driving. I bought some grease for the connection points for those, so hopefully that'll fix that up...

Does the knock sensor detect an engine tick? or what?

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UPDATE:  got some parts from a local junkyard today; Throttle Position Sensor has been replaced, the old one had a dead spider and it's web inside. meh... Knock Sensor has been replaced... about to change over the Speed Sensor in a few minutes, we shall see if that fixes anything... Idle Control Sensor will be next after that.... also, I greased up the brakes and those are much smoother. There's still this weird noise coming from underneath though, when driving. It's hard to describe, almost a chirping, not really quite a grinding noise, but it's constant with the speed I drive, when I speed up it chirps faster and slower when I slow down. Hitting the brakes doesn't seem to affect it, and the car doesn't seem to be hindered by the noise. I fear it might be something up with the transmission. I hope that is NOT the case here... thoughts, anyone?

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unfortunately, when I took the car to a Subaru specialist yesterday, he informed me that the transmission is indeed where the noise is coming from. He said one of the bearings inside is shot, impossible to tell which one without tearing it apart... so, I guess I'm gonna bite the bullet on this one. another grand to have a salvaged transmission swapped in... ugh.

 

...how do I go about calibrating the TPS?

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Today I replaced the CV shaft.

 

front passenger side?

 

P1700  = TPS sensor

P1507  = IAC

P1540  = speed sensor

P0500 = speed sensor

P0325 = knock sensor

 

all of thees sensors have wires in one of the large connector on the rear of the engine.

if you replace the passenger side axle,

you must have knocked something loose or damaged something.

check the connectors,

as ivan said

 

i have never replaced a right front axle when i did not reach down from above and work the axle onto the trans.

Edited by johnceggleston
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the CV shaft was the front driver's side, so I don't think I messed up the wiring for those sensors... the trans is automatic, and yes the noise would coincide with wheel speed, and did change when coasting or going into neutral, but did not go away completely... I appreciate all of the help, guys! I had to make it back to my hometown, I missed one week of work and couldn't afford to miss more, so I had the specialist swap the trans for me and everything is as it should be. No more wretched noises, speedometer and cruise control are working... the only thing is that it's still throwing a TPS code at me, soooo, I must need to calibrate the TPS? I'm not sure what else might be wrong.

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Easy way is to back probe the center pin on the TPS connector. (Use a needle or paper clip) Turn the Key to ON then adjust the TPS until voltage on the center pin is at about 0.52v.

Turn the key off, unhook the battery negative for about 10 minutes to clear the codes and reset the ECU. Reconnect and start the car and you should be good to go.

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