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Timing belt 95 ej22 and oil pump assistance


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36 replies to this topic

#26 Fairtax4me

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 09:42 PM

I'm not aware of any oil pressure switches that operate at more than about 7 psi. Better off to just put a guage sender in place of the switch and forget about the light altogether.

But if you want a light and a guage, dodge used to have a pressure sender and light switch built into the same sensor. Just have to find an electric guage.



Problem with the sway bar end links is the way the suspension articulates.
As the control arms swing down the mounting points for the sway bar links swing inwards, and they swing in quite a bit at full extension.
Jack up the car and try to remove the lower bolt that holds the link. You'll see how far the bushings have to deflect to allow for suspension movement.
A chunk is steel is just gonna break, or cause something else to break.

I'm not a fan of the design either but the only other way is to use ball-joint type end links. I'm not sure that the links used on the newer cars will work.
If you want a tougher alternative you can get aluminum end links Crome whiteline and I think a few other places (Rallispec maybe?) that have poly bushings in them. But they're $$$. The nylon composite end links hold up just fine to everyday driving.

#27 Bushwick

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 11:09 PM

Eh, I bought some tube bar already... maybe I can reuse some of the rubber section with the sleeve by wrapping a thin 16 gauge around the rubber outer diameter, butt weld it, then use a section of the bar in between (like the aluminum dog bone deal in the last link above). Wouldn't cost anything at this point but a few hours of killing time. If it becomes to much a PITA to fit together, I think getting 4 end links like I've got on my 9-3, and a tubular sleeve coupler, and tack a nut on each end of the sleeve, I could thread the stock 9-3 pieces into that, and have a full on double adjustable ball-joint style for the fronts for under $25, and still be under what a decent set of plastic replacements would run from rockauto. It'd be pretty cool if they work as good as the $$$ ones which I'm guessing they'd be exactly the same.

 

 

Just figured if the oil switch needs replaced anyways, and I could find say a 10 psi switch, I'd gladly install that. Not a huge fan of mechanical oil gauges due to potential issues with running an oil line in the car (copper tubing helps, but if in an accident and it ruptures while you are pinned or unconscious....) and electric units are sorta pricey for a winter vehicle and accuracy can be an issue on cheaper units.



#28 Fairtax4me

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 12:20 AM

A 10 psi switch might be less useful than you think.
Spec for these engines is only 10-12 psi at warm idle.
But I suppose of you know the switch is set for 10 psi, the flickering pressure light at idle wouldn't bother you. I'm sure it would scare the crap out of anyone else who drove the car if they know what that light is for.

And I agree, mechanical gauges are worrisome. I've heard too many stories of the line rupturing or leaking inside the car.


End links are one thing I've found rockauto to be way overpriced on.
These guys sell German made end links for under $10 each. http://www.fcpimport...k-baja-101-4457

#29 Bushwick

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 12:44 AM

Glad you told me these things operate at 10 psi  :unsure: If I'd installed a gauge and saw 8-10 psi I'd probably panic. 

 

What's start up pressure then and where does it settle when idling in gear?(10w 30 Mobile One Full synthetic) Maybe I'll splurge for a middle-end electrical unit and mount a pillar pod for it for piece of mind.

 

$10 each is great price, would need another purchase to get the $25 free shipping limit.



#30 Fairtax4me

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 10:40 AM

Cold startup you'll see around 70-75 psi. The pressure bypass valve is something like 70 psi (I don't recall exactly), and it'll go straight to that with 5w30.
At warm cruise you'll be around 25-30 psi at 2,000 rpm, 30-35 at 3,000, and should have another 10 psi for every one thousand rpm above that. Only at idle that it settles down around 10 psi.

#31 Bushwick

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 03:44 AM

Very good info Fairtax and you've been VERY helpful. Thank you so much for not only timely responses, but for taking a minute to be thorough  :drunk:



#32 Gloyale

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 11:00 AM

FSM specs at 180 degrees are

 

600 rpm = 14psi, 4.2 ltrs/min

 

5000rpm = 43 psi, 42 ltrs/min

 

 

Pump relief valve (bypass)= 71 psi

 

Relief valve in rockers = 10 psi???

 

 

Oil pressure switch light on =   2.1 psi. or less.



#33 Bushwick

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 12:50 PM

^ Yeah, I can't believe they'd put a switch in that doesn't even light up until 2 psi. I mean, what's the point? If the engine is so clogged or the pump is so worn/damaged, by the time it reaches 2 psi it's going to be too late.

 

I'm just going to run out and get a gauge and not mess with replacing that as it won't give any kind of early warning.



#34 Bushwick

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Posted 02 November 2013 - 12:35 PM

I installed an oil gauge in the port the oil light sensor went in, and pressure was rather high. 70 or so at start up, then it'd gradually go down and eventually settled around 20 at idle? Seems rather high as opposed to what you guys were saying. I started and shut it off several times and that's when it eventually dropped to 20. When still cold, it lingered it the 60's. Is the port I'm using accurate? 

 

 

I haven't installed the gauge yet, rather hooked it up first. I ended up with a mechanical Sunpro gauge and will use a copper feed line instead of the nylon. Also bought some vacuum line that I'll run the copper through to protect it.


Edited by Bushwick, 02 November 2013 - 12:38 PM.


#35 Fairtax4me

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Posted 02 November 2013 - 08:25 PM

20 at idle is fine, though I suspect the engine and oil were not completely warm. Idling in the driveway for 20 minutes doesn't get it warmed up quite as much as a good drive will. Warm oil pressure is the lowest spec you should expect to see when the engine and oil are completely warm. This usually means about a 20-30 minute drive to get the oil up to full temp. Oil viscosity will affect warm idle pressure as well. The spec is for the recommended 5w-30 under normal conditions. If you're running 10w-40 the pressure may be higher depending on the conditions being operated in. (for example, if the climate is too cool to really need 10w-40)

#36 Bushwick

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Posted 02 November 2013 - 09:32 PM

It has 10w30 synthetic Mobile One. Been awhile (about 10 years) since I ran an oil pressure gauge and seem to remember pressure dropping quicker and leveling at the normal pressure sooner than what I was seeing with this, hence the need for reassurance just in case I was seeing some sort of bypass pressure instead. 



#37 Bushwick

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Posted 09 November 2013 - 07:59 PM

Well, cut some square tube stock to length and installed in place of those plastic end links. Needed a washer on the lower mount to fill the gap, but otherwise running the square tube looks like it was meant to be there it was so close. Top needed a washer on the outer end like the factory unit had. The passenger side had a split developing so I caught that one just in time. Took about 10 minutes to make both sides. Been driving it "spiritedly" and car seems to be handling well up front on harder turns with angular curves. No real difference with noise, and no clunking or unwanted sounds.

 

Interestingly enough, the factory piece that snapped, did so around the the rubber bushing (bottom). It really wasn't that thick. Will have to wait and see how long they hold up over time, but at least now it's forcing the sway bar to do it's job. I'd say about a 10-15% improvement with handling is noticed. Now just have to find an STi rear to make the big wagon rear stay put :)






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