Gloyale Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 Ground Clearance!!! Cat PhotoBomb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 Attached the front end to the frame. Donor plates are the original mounts from a Gen 1 A-bar......worked perfect here. And a few reinforcemnets for the steering rack. More to come Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 9, 2014 Author Share Posted April 9, 2014 Some more little things this last few weeks. First...Engine and D/R 5spd installed w/ new clutch. Fits nicely. Don't let the Uppipe fool you......it's not going to be turbo'd...not with this engine anyhow......I just wanted the exhaust to not have to go under the engine. It'll be a straight 2-1/4 pipe from there. A little bit more work on the rear end frame/slider/bumper/gas gaurd. Tererible pics........Passenger side completed........this rail runs from the rear end all the way up to the block at the OE "K" bar mount these tie the frame/body/blocks and eventually the rear bumper into one unit. tight clearance on the pass side had to notch around the gas tank and vent lines. Better views of what these rails actually do on the drivers side.....Since this is were the muffler would've been........this ones not welded in yet. The hitch piece that will make the bottom of the bumper and the rear mount for the skid plate..... And on the interior front..........Reinstalled the XT turbo pedal box........I was gonna use a regular GL one but it doesn't clear the XT column mounts bummer.....(I wanted the spring loaded turbo pedal for my DD GL....Guess it wasn't meant to be) XT steering wheel will get a floating DigiDash mounted atop.......Just for S&Gs really since I will have aftermarket gauges for Fuel/Temp/Oil. I guess I'll need the VSS..... Reinstalled most of the wiring harness.........not sure how this happened.....BUT I CUT OUT THE FUSE BOX!!!!...........WHAT THE HELL!!!! Why did I do that????? I must have been smokin crack 3 years ago when I parted this thing out.......damn.......That's gonna be some soldering.....I guess I really only need to give power to 4 or 5 circuits......most of the rest is unneeded at this point lol. I also mocked up the T-case w/ the body installed .......I though I was going to need to cut and extend the tunnel.....but I was able to fit it perfectly with only a bit of hammering on the drives side.......sadly it's right where the seat rail bolts in so Im gonna fab a Trooper seat frame base onto the floor.......no pics of that stuff yet. Next on the list........Radiator support, Battery tray, and finish reassembling transfer case........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 (edited) More work yesterday........unitl I ran out of wire in the MIG......dooh!! Anyway........trimmed the rusty rotted Sunroof lip.........The velour window trim makes an excellent rubber edging to cover the cut edge. Prepped the floor for the Isuzu Trooper seat base.....Once this is installed.....an EA81 seat or trooper seat will bolt right in.......Not sure which I'll use yet. Radiator mocked up......The original seat back tabs are going to make ecxellent radiator lower supports........Also found a Battery tray.....I might use it. And more work on the rear end. Got the all but the lower left rail inplace and welded in. Reinforced the drop portion of the diff mount/slider. Trailer hitch/rear skid plate mount installed. (old class II minivan hitch). It's clear at this point I am not goin to bob the back end loke I had originally thought......I like the look of the complete car sitting up that high. If all is correct the OE bumper will bolt back on over this......or I'll make something custom resembling the OE look. This is where I ran out of wire.. Edited April 12, 2014 by Gloyale 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 Finished the rear shock mounts today. Finally not bouncy. And then started in on the Re-pinning of the 87 harness to match the 88+ engine loom. 1 pin stayed the same, and 6 others at least re-pinned in the same connector. The rest will have to be cut/spliced into a matching 88 connector. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 Reassmebled the transfer case today with all new bearings. Godddangit this thing is tricky to get to this point.....took 3 tries to find the right order......the book has pics of sections but no start to finish rebassembly proceedure. The rear flange is larger than the subaru drivelines.........the other 2 are the same as subie. So I redrilled this rear one, and I will swap it to the front output so if it's slighlty not centered it won't matter at 10 mph in 4wd. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 Dropped $100 on new Trooper balljoints and tierods, all 6 in total. Also got some new seals for the transfer case hopefully they will be the right ones......it was a bitch to track down. In my research I found these Nissan geared transfer cases a pretty cool......used in the Nissan Patrols in a "sideway" configuration for years. Makes me think about using one on it's side for the next project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 Dropped $100 on new Trooper balljoints and tierods, all 6 in total. Also got some new seals for the transfer case hopefully they will be the right ones......it was a bitch to track down. In my research I found these Nissan geared transfer cases a pretty cool......used in the Nissan Patrols in a "sideway" configuration for years. Makes me think about using one on it's side for the next project. Make a new shifter lever and fill it full of oil and it will be perfect.In my hatch the T case was 1/2" from touching the seat rails I also clocked it so the shifter was right in the passenger seat, which is why my T case shifter was so stubby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 19, 2014 Author Share Posted April 19, 2014 Make a new shifter lever and fill it full of oil and it will be perfect.In my hatch the T case was 1/2" from touching the seat rails I also clocked it so the shifter was right in the passenger seat, which is why my T case shifter was so stubby. This one is gonna stay how it is...... But maybe someday if I T-case my wagon....I might clock it sideways........probably will oil better than upright. It's oiling system is excactly like one of those "Lucas" hand crank displays that shows you the oil sling up the gears......that's why they are known for upper bearing problems......especially if they sit for long times and then get driven short amounts..........the top bearings go dry and then you have to drive over a few MPH to get the oil to really get up to the top. The vent hole at the top is directly behind the upper bearing. I plan on running a tube out of the vent hole that comes into the cab.......And before each run I'm gonna pour a teaspoon of Gear oil down it into the upper bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 19, 2014 Author Share Posted April 19, 2014 Went to the wreckers today to try to find brakes.......No luck.......at least not for 86 trooper.....I checked some 88's but the knuckle and mountings changed in 87..... I got an idea though....... I found later troopers/rodeos/etc......use a larger 280mm rotor.....that bolts into the OE hub..... 2000ish Toyota Camry uses a Front caliper that shares mounting bolt spacing with the 86 trooper.......and is made to work with 275mm rotors......a difference of only 2.5mm at the edge of the rotor vs. 90's Isuzu............gonna try that..... Mmmmmwwaaaahahahahaha........the maddness gets madder!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 So you will actually be able to stop.jelly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 20, 2014 Author Share Posted April 20, 2014 2003 rodeos use a 290mm rotor, and 2004 Es300 caliper will bolt to trooper hub made to use with 294mm rotors.........even better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 (edited) What are your plans for rear brakes? I looked back 2 pages & noticed stock drum brakes. Just a suggestion, Isuzu Trooper rear discs with Sube 6 lug hubs & modded backing plate. Or is this 'too soon for television' ? Edited April 20, 2014 by czny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 20, 2014 Author Share Posted April 20, 2014 I have looked into that some.... But i figure for a wheeler buggy the rear drums will be fine....for now.... I may end up with the Isusu rear discs........but they will be on a Dana 44 from a Rodeo......haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 What are your plans for rear brakes? I looked back 2 pages & noticed stock drum brakes. Just a suggestion, Isuzu Trooper rear discs with Sube 6 lug hubs & modded backing plate.IMG_4921.JPG Or is this 'too soon for television' ? Do you have two rear brake setups? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 20, 2014 Author Share Posted April 20, 2014 (edited) I think it's just a mock up. Looks somewhat feasable..... Although I don't know how that the "hat" of the disc will fit over the subaru Disc hub......and it woudl act as a wheel spacer if it did. and then there is the issue of the backing plate......It would need to put the capliper much further outward horizonatally (closer to wheel) and radially (for bigger rotor) Looks totally doable......I like the rear cable e-brake......just......not sure it's needed for this one...especially since I done have a set of disc hubs laying round. Now my EA82 wagon w/ 4.11 AWD has got discs.......and dual E-brakes already on the front................hmmm...........If I converted to cable pull E-brake rears, and added 2 more handles somewhere...............I could have my own Fully Manual/Bio-Analog X-mode!!! THAT....would be useful. Tangent complete Edited April 20, 2014 by Gloyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 (edited) Yeah, it was just a mock-up. 91 Trooper rear brakes test fit inside 14" Mazda truck whls & it would be very close, but 15" whls are fine. Likely would have to turn down the 6 lug hub to fit inside the rotor(but not much) & longer studs. Wheel 'spacer' only 12mm, per side. Pad area is about twice that of the GL-10 pads. Piston bore is 42mm. Edited April 21, 2014 by czny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 Alright....... Had to go to the PnP today to get a new steering rack. The one on my DD is puking it's guts out at an alarming, and smoky rate. As it seeps directly onto the exhaust. Found an Excellent condition low miles rack from a 93 2wd Loyale sedan........Just what I was hoping to find......the 2wds don't get beat to piss the same way usually. So while I was there i looked over in both the Isuzu and Nissan truck areas......Found some scores for sure. 2, 86 Trooper calipers, a direct bolt up for Cleo (as this prokect has become known) 1 Nissan early Pathfinder front driveline......An almost perfect flange mount for newer subaru "large" r160 diff flange And a whole 96ish Isuzu Amigo front right Knuckle, Rotor, Caliper, and CV axle......<<<<For future mock up of larger front axles/knuckle/brake Best part of all is that this junkyard is in the next town over, closer to were the "Moutain Top Mud Jam" happens.....And there was a flyer on the counter that said it's MUDDER FORKING HAPPENING!!!!!! MAY 3-4 in Scio, OR......2 weeks to get ready........CRAP!!!! And then after all that I got home to find my Tierods and Balljoints have arrived!!! FREEKIN AWESOME!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 (edited) Finally recieved the Nissan T-case seals from NissanPartsOnly.com.......Great resource......$15 bucks for 3 genuine seals. Good to know for all the t-case crowd. Next on to the rear driveshaft.......Now, because I needed a bit more angle to this I had to go ahead and use the Large t-case flang on the Nissan at the rear.....I ended up needing to redrill it AGAIN....so now it's got 3 patterns....o well....It worked out great because of some common dimensions shared with it's Japanese cousins. Here it is all tucked up into the chassis Isuzu Trooper Front Driveline and Nissan Pathfinder driveline. Cut and sleeved Welded.....Perfect. Large style subaru rear diff flange, notched to accept Isuzu yoke. Notice the different size to the inner centering ring.....smaller on the larger flange. The centering ring matches the isuzu.....that's why I chose this one.....the notches aren't ideal...but they will work and the centering is done by the lip. Now for the input shaft into the T-case.......I got lucky......Just so happens that this 76 Datsun 280Z driveline fit PERFECTLY.......I swear....I didn't plan this....but it happened........slides right into the subaru 5spd. and bolts to the Nissan T-case input. JOY! And a few other tidbits.... Removed the rear diff after driveline fitting. It's got the cover off and draining into this old box. Gonna weld up these for full Lincon Lockers! Front diff too hehe Had to remove the belly armour to get the front diff out....that's fine cause I gotta weld up some seems on it anyhow. And Finally the new Front suspension joints.......China.........ehh..... Edited April 25, 2014 by Gloyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 27, 2014 Author Share Posted April 27, 2014 Moar work.......but moar setbacks..... The T-case is fully "in"....but the tras needs to come back out.....at least a few inches out anyhow...... The D/R I used was in this car when it was crashed...... Yo can see how far back the force transfered..........I think when the D/R shifter was twisted and shoved violently into the back of the case........it broke the shfit collar.....IDK....I gotta go pull it and find out......all I know is I put the T-case in hooked up a driveline and shifter but can't get the rear transfer of the D/R to fully engage.....it catches and then slips makes a grumble like synchros riding but not engaging. I will post Pics of what I find tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam N.D.J. Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 You should pull off the top cover of the rear transfer, it is not at all uncommon for the dogs on the rear transfer to go out on the these. Just clean it up and weld it solid. If you plan on not going back to a FWD/4WD set up it is the better way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 28, 2014 Author Share Posted April 28, 2014 Pulled the cover on the rear of the trans without removing it from the car.....shoved the phone down the tunnel and shot this picture first try! Unfortunately.....it's just as I thought....the landing that secures the output bearing is blown out from the crash..(see red car above)..... On the upside....I got alot else done.....Installed the new balljoints, tierods, and finished the hybrid axles w/ new grease and boots....along with installilng the calipers I got at the junkyard the other day.....just stock 86 trooper calipers to keep it simple. Got the covers back on the diffs......Tapped for 1/4" pipe fitting for vent tube..... And a pic of the T-case shifter.....cut and shut a bit shorter than it was........still got to bend it a bit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 29, 2014 Author Share Posted April 29, 2014 So....I pulled the Eng/Trans combo.........removed the rear output from trans..........Here's the damage.. Pretty easy fix.....I just slapped another tail piece on. I did weld up the 4wd shift collar.....and modified the selector so that only Hi/Lo can be selected....sorry no pics of that. Got it all back in the rig......Drivelines hooked up center and front......still gotta get the rear diff and driveline in and then get it RUNNING!!!...Oh...yeah...brake lines might be needed too...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruguru Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 Jesus so much going on, Its like abstract art with 4 wheel drive bits ;-) keep it up!Cheers R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 30, 2014 Author Share Posted April 30, 2014 Jesus so much going on, Its like abstract art with 4 wheel drive bits ;-) keep it up! Cheers R. It really is more of a found object art sculpture with an kinetic offroad theme. Everything I've needed up til very recently has be random parts lying round.........just recently started actually spending money to get the last parts. in order. Not sure I'll make the event this weekend........I hope to at least trailer her there and play.......Competition won't be possible .......I will have to run the ol' EA81 wagon AKA "t-bone" in the event....or just watch....havent' decided. But thanks for the encouragement......I definately will be bringing her up to a meet in WA this summer so hopefully the BoB will be there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.