Twitch de la Brat Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Ok, trying to eliminate the blow-by oil suction issues in my PCV system, as having my engine drink a quart every 1k miles sucks. And since I'll be redoing my intake gaskets and a few little hoses in the intake system/area, I figure I could update my hose routing to fix the brown coating on my intake and eliminate some risk of lighting my intake hose on fire from the turbo encountering errant oil. Any suggestions? Twitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 I don't think you have a chance of fire as once it is through the turrbo what have you got to burn ? I had the 007 option courtesy of blow by and up hills and the rear breather complete with baffle plates - delivered quite a show and it was oil starting at modified air box, down exhaust pipe and silicone inlet ducks, into the turbo and so on. My fix was to keep away from uphills until I swapped in another EA82T, also in need of TLC - gudgeon pins bush from the sound of it, still lasted me 20,000km until real EA82T was ready to go back in and that bush - never let go ! Sounds like you need a catch can that self drains back to sump or turbo drain hose ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobiedubie Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Redo your cylinder head gaskets and/or check the torque on the cylinder head bolts. The bolts get loose and allow extra pressure on the oil and coolant systems and some coolant leaking into the combustion chamber. Look on the bottom side of your radiator cap for a deposit of some kind that tends to indicate your cylinder head bolts are loose or your cylinder head gaskets are disintigrating. A dark deposit in the coolant overflow bottle also indicates the same thing. How many miles on the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 The most important thing with those for PCV operation is to clear out the gunk from the baffles in the valve covers, and to a lesser extent the baffle plate and the vent at the rear of the engine. Keep all the hose ends clamped. Make sure you get the correct PCV for a turbo as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 correct PCV valve for turbo ? How are they different to NA ? I've not noticed this before .This is the metal valve that screws into the inlet manifolds rear ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch de la Brat Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 It's not the head bolts. This car has 166k on it, all original. Factory. Not the head bolts. Just a crappy old PCV system that's clogged up and messed up with carbon deposits and oil deposits. I'm buying a bunch of high grade silicone hose to replace those hoses. I'm not really looking forward to having to do this again any time soon. So heavy duty stuff will be used to fix all of it. And I'll be 'foaming the vacuum lines as I go. Does anyone have a vacuum switch/modulator for the 4wd laying around? The oil destroyed the plastic fittings. So if I can redo all the PCV lines while I'm in there, I will. Twitch PS: I'm looking at the vacuum line routing and am trying to figure out how I can rerout the lines to minimize oil suction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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