92_rugby_subie Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 The time has come, after the timing belt tensioner snapped the bolt IN the block and left the car stranded (drilled out and put a M10X1.5 in there to fix) I have decided to start ripping apart my 2nd EA82 engine and getting the engine prepped and built so I can solve my headgasket issue and have a fresh block... I have a few questions about this whole thing... OEM VS Permatorques... Which is better? I have OEM ones, and althogh they require a retorque, I have a friend who says we can retorque without taking the cam towers off... so it wouldnt be a big deal... but I drive my car extremely hard (6K shifts daily, hard acceleration etc) and I want to know which one will hold up to the abuse longer... Separating heads... The machine shop I chose told me to bring in both sets of heads that I have, and they will visually inspect them for cracks, and do leak down tests on them, and give me the best 2 for the motor... both engines I have are out of a 90-94 Loyale, SPFI so I figured itd be okay but I feel like I once heard NOT to mix up heads because they could be worn differently or something...? Valve adjustment... is there a write up somewhere just in case Im going to need it? Lifters... I had my lifters rebuilt by mizpah a few years ago... can I take them out of my carby engine and use them in the SPFI motor or do I need to use the SPFI ones (and probably get them rebuilt as well) Oil -- the motor isnt going to be rebuilt, just resealed, and I was thinking with new seals I could run synthetic oil in it with the new seals, but Im confused as to breaking in the motor... Im gonna do some searching for Subaru break in procedures before I do it, but most of the stuff Ive seen is new cars, turbo cars, or other makes and models. The motor will be kinda frankenmotor'd as itll be EA82 SPFI long block with a carb manifold (and a weber) but will be completely resealed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 OEM is best. SPFI longblock will bolt right in. The heads won't have the ports for the AAV systtem (stainless pipes) so you'll have to ditch that system. Plug the big tube at the EGR but the EGR itself can stay or use an SPFI one. Mizpah lifters will go right in. Valves are self adjusting. There is no adjustment. Mixing heads is fine, just make sure to use a Right and Left (passenger side has EGR pipe port on top) If the heads have BTV cracks it's ok as long as they are minor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 Thanks! thats a huge relief! Makes things easier on me for sure! Im pretty sure my EGR stuff is already plugged, and all (I definitely dont pass emissions haha) but this should come together a lot easier now! Thanks GLOYALE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted November 6, 2013 Author Share Posted November 6, 2013 (edited) Heads were sent in (picked the best two) today... $145 for valve grind, resurface and hottanking... not bad will post pictures when I have them done (yes they are putting new valve seals in) So USMB skips the term EA82 for me... so when I look up EA82 headgasket I get a bunch of stuff on the outback and EJ25D headgaskets... who has a really good write-up on this? I think I have it down from reading so much in the past, but I don't wanna screw this up... The key part being the retorque procedure, seals I may be missing etc. Edited November 6, 2013 by 92_rugby_subie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted November 7, 2013 Author Share Posted November 7, 2013 Alright, I have done some searching and pulled up just about every thread in the old gen section on headgaskets... and now Im even more confused on a few things: Retorque procedure... This is seemingly a HUGE "do what you feel is best" because people say they did retorque, no problems, or they did not retorque, no problems etc... Then theres the "before retorque" apparently I should run the motor, 30 minutes, WITH NO COOLANT? Umm... sounds like a great way to overheat your new headgaskets? I read, not putting on cam tower sealant would be beneficial so you can take the cam towers off and retorque... also heard to use the tool, but again, cant find that tool... Im so thoroughly confused is there a write up? A FSM somewhere that will tell me EXACTLY how to do this... so I don't break the motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobiedubie Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 You can retorque the cylinder heads bolts at about 5000 miles after you installed them and check them again 5000 miles after that. When installing the cylinder head bolts,it is best to get all of the oil off of the threads, washer and bolt head, as well as all oil out of the hole you put to bolt into. If you put short bolts in the long bolt holes, you will strip out the threads in the block enough so that you can't go back and put the correct long bolt in and get enough torque on it before it strips out what is left of the threads. Some cylinder head gaskets are supposed to be better than others, and they claim that you never have to retorque. I have not found them. Never run the engine with no coolant. If you don't put on cam tower sealant, you will lose oil so fast that you will have to add a quart every time you go to the grocery store. You only have to take the cam tower covers off and the horizontal lubricating bar inside, in order to get at the bolt heads. Use a 17mm x 3/8" short socket because it can fit into the tight places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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