julianco Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 I've taken over this project http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117202-1978-4x4-wagon-build-thread/ . Nobelsablepuma had stopped at the electrical stage and I've been struggling with it since. It came with a harness from generaldisorder (who has been very helpful) and is hooked up direct and minimally for testing. Connected now are the 3 main engine electrical connectors, MAF, fuel pump, start signal, grounds and power (30amp and 15amp power direct to battery for testing). It has fuel pressure at the inlet and power at the injectors.It has spark. Checked and reset timing (it was almost perfectly set already). Fuel pump and ignition relays are doing their jobs. OBD only throws 2 codes - fuel temp and fuel level - which should not prevent it from starting and after repeatedly scanning and turning it over to try to make it throw a code, there's no change. My head hurts from hitting it against the wall . Anyone have any tips for other things to check? Any ideas/help would be very appreciated! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Maybe the injectors aren't firing? Thinking there is something called a noid light used to test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julianco Posted November 12, 2013 Author Share Posted November 12, 2013 I was thinking it was a problem with the injectors too. Not sure what a noid light is, but after looking up, it seems like it is basically testing that the wiring is working? How do you test if they're firing? I have power at all 4 and if there was a ground problem, it seems like it would show up on OBD scans anyways.... It's also hard to believe that all 4 would get clogged or fail mechanically or something that wouldn't show up in the codes all at once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 My understanding is the light will flash/flicker as the injector opens and closes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 you said OBD2,is your clutch switch hooked up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julianco Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 Yes OBD2. But I'm pretty sure there is no clutch switch with this ECU. The starter cranks anyways, where if it had a clutch kill switch, I'm pretty sure it wouldn't even turn over. Heading in to check out whether it will start with some ether and depending on that, I'll then go find a 12volt LED and to make a little noid light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 does the EJ harness control your starter or does the cars harness control the starter?With EJ swaps it is fairly common to use the cars starter wiring,while the start wire on the ECU is used mainly to tell the computer that the engine is cranking.So is it possible that your spinning the engine over with the cars harness while the engine/ECM doesnt have the clutch switch to tell its safe? I seriously doubt that your ECU doesn't have a clutch switch wire,90 legacies have a clutch switch that may or may no be hooked up.OBD2 has more sensors not less.. try to find that wire and temporary ground it to something to see if it starts,if that doesn't work check and make sure your getting voltage to the right places on the engine when in run/start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julianco Posted November 15, 2013 Author Share Posted November 15, 2013 First of all, thank you Uberoo for the input. It's very appreciated. I have the '78's wiring harness running the starter with the new ECU's starter signal wire connected to the signal from the IG switch at the starter, so I suppose that if there is a clutch wire, the car would still turn over like you say. But I'm still pretty sure there is no clutch wire. As far as I can tell, the ECU pinouts I've been using (terrible quality) don't mention anything about the clutch switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julianco Posted November 15, 2013 Author Share Posted November 15, 2013 In other better news, I was able to get it started with some starter fluid. It runs as long as I keep spraying it in the intake. Does this rule out fuel injector problems? Also, my cousin just told me that it won't run without an intake resonator - is this true? So now I'm starting to think that it's maybe a fuel pressure problem. Just picked up a fuel pressure gauge and will test in a few hours. If it is low pressure, any tips on a somewhat affordable inline fuel pump? Right now I have one from a junkyard - a '93ish Loyale which should be capable of providing the pressure, but it is in the engine bay which I've read may restrict its function. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julianco Posted November 16, 2013 Author Share Posted November 16, 2013 (edited) So I read that the intake resonator helps the EJ22 run better - I don't think the lack of one would prevent it from running, but I tried a stock set up anyways. No help... This looks about right, right? Edited November 16, 2013 by julianco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julianco Posted November 16, 2013 Author Share Posted November 16, 2013 And I made up a little noid light. It's an incandescent so probably not as reactive as an LED or something, but it did flash at what seemed to be the correct rate. Maybe every half second-ish. So that seems to check out too. Very much at a loss.... Uberoo, still looking for a clutch switch but haven't found anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julianco Posted November 16, 2013 Author Share Posted November 16, 2013 Very little of the emission stuff is hooked up. Could that be part of the issue? Some sort of vacuum problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted November 16, 2013 Share Posted November 16, 2013 (edited) Neutral position switch is OPEN with manual tranmission when in neutral.Automatic switch is grounded when in park/Neutral.Do you have the At/MT identification wire grounded?B84-81 has to be grounded for the computer to think its a manual.If the AT/MT wire isn't correct for your transmission type for your car the fuel pump wont turn on. the neutral position switch is B84-82 All else fails hotwire the fuel pump to come on in run and start. Edited November 16, 2013 by Uberoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julianco Posted November 16, 2013 Author Share Posted November 16, 2013 I'll go double check, but as is fuel pump does come on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julianco Posted November 16, 2013 Author Share Posted November 16, 2013 Wow! Figured it out. I'm a big dummy. I'd looked up a picture online with little arrows pointing to fuel inlet vs. return vs. breather. Turns out inlet and return were reversed. Switched them and it started right up...... ughhhh that's embarrassing.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 Been there,done that,got the T shirt.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julianco Posted November 17, 2013 Author Share Posted November 17, 2013 Haha oops. But not I can put it all together and drive it soon! Hooray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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