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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Axles keep breaking, we keep replacing, need a better solution!

1991loyale wagon axle 4WD OEM

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38 replies to this topic

#26 SnatchedHatch

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Posted 10 February 2014 - 07:23 PM

   

I'm about to put a rebuilt autozone special in. I didn't want to mess with re-booting an old axle...and then likely having to do the other boot sometime in the near future either...2 boots cost close to a rebuilt AZ special with warranty...


If you are really bummed about losing your OEM axle you can have mine for the core charge if you want. I'm not sure if it's worth it but I'll offer it if you or someone really, really wants an OEM axle to rebuild. the outter boot is still fine. The inner boot torn open a last week so the joint still has plenty of grease and should be uncontaminated...at the moment.

 

I'll consider it!

 

My CV axle hasn't bothered me at the moment, and if you just plan on putting it aside I would take you up on your offer.

I have had nothing but headaches with these Autozone Special Order axles where I'm at, too long or too short compressed length.

Only one worked from them but it started knocking pretty good after a month or so.

 

I bought the same part, no core charge so cheaper, from Rock Auto. Compressed length 25-3/4" as I recall.

 

 

If you need a decision soon, It looks like I might need to replace my passenger side front CV shaft.

It has been surprisingly chattering longer than the new part has been installed.

 

The Cat directly below it overheated for some reason and melted the rubber of the inner boot on the little strip outside of the zip-tie clamp.

Only reason I noticed was the smell! ...and the smoke xO

 

If this has been an ongoing issue like I thought, the heating could have messed with the grease and the chattering is a omen of future replacement.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What length part do you have?

EA81 just to confirm right?

When do you wish to sell it? If it's the appropriate shaft, I will jump on this as soon as I have the cash.



#27 nipper

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Posted 10 February 2014 - 10:58 PM

I had this problem at one time, no one could figure it out untill the problem got worse. It was frame rot. The front frame rails kept pulling the cv joints apart (in a nutshell). Check your frame make sure it 's not weakened.



#28 l75eya

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Posted 11 February 2014 - 10:59 AM

Does the EA82 CV axle vary for automatic and manual transmissions?

Trying to find out if my axle is from a manual car/if it will fit one.


I would love to hear the definitive answer on this question as i rebuilt and rebooted the old axle from my 5 speed gl and put it in my automatic Loyale and now the steering wheel has a crazy bad shimmy. ..are they different or is it something else?

#29 SnatchedHatch

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Posted 11 February 2014 - 11:29 AM

I had this problem at one time, no one could figure it out untill the problem got worse. It was frame rot. The front frame rails kept pulling the cv joints apart (in a nutshell). Check your frame make sure it 's not weakened.


Yes, I've also heard it could be worn engine mounts. Not sure if it was in this thread ^^^ but that actually could be a possibility for me.

I'm guessing a bent frame could also mess with the balance of the two shafts, I have one repainted front fender and the bumper slightly sags on that side.. Hmm

#30 Subaru_dude

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Posted 11 February 2014 - 08:54 PM

I see you live in a place that gets snow... I was going to suggest pulling the front axles and driving it in 4wd but you probably want the ability to get around when conditions are bad. As others have said, there's better quality axles out there and if you can't go that route I would at least pull the boots off and re-grease, as well as better quality boots. I just did axles in my 2wd '84 hardtop and I couldn't believe the shimmy in the steering wheel and lurching while turning I was getting after installing them. They've smoothed out, but they still pop when the wheel is cut deep and I'm accelerating. Sometimes they even pop going on a freaking straight line. Aftermarket CRAP.



#31 SnatchedHatch

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Posted 13 February 2014 - 09:12 PM

I see you live in a place that gets snow... I was going to suggest pulling the front axles and driving it in 4wd but you probably want the ability to get around when conditions are bad. As others have said, there's better quality axles out there and if you can't go that route I would at least pull the boots off and re-grease, as well as better quality boots. I just did axles in my 2wd '84 hardtop and I couldn't believe the shimmy in the steering wheel and lurching while turning I was getting after installing them. They've smoothed out, but they still pop when the wheel is cut deep and I'm accelerating. Sometimes they even pop going on a freaking straight line. Aftermarket CRAP.

 

I've heard of pulling the front CV's in an emergency and running on 4WD. How would you do that,

don't you need a spindle through the hub to prevent bearing failure?

EDIT: I'm not planning on it like you guessed.


Edited by SnatchedHatch, 13 February 2014 - 09:12 PM.


#32 Subaru_dude

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 01:19 AM

I've heard of pulling the front CV's in an emergency and running on 4WD. How would you do that,

don't you need a spindle through the hub to prevent bearing failure?

EDIT: I'm not planning on it like you guessed.

Yeah you would need the end of the axle still in place and just remove the rest. The e-brake being on the front wheels makes for great burnouts too.



#33 SnatchedHatch

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 03:41 AM

LOL! I imagine it would. Hot damn, what is the power ratio on these things?

The possibilities for summer...

#34 l75eya

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 08:43 AM

LOL a thread about how our axles are weak to begin with and a comment about doing burnouts :P

#35 SnatchedHatch

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 11:20 AM

LOL a thread about how our axles are weak to begin with and a comment about doing burnouts :P

Yes, but it is the front axles that are weak, no?

 

I never heard of the rears causing so much trouble, at least before they start causing loads of trouble xD

That said, it's better not to test your luck,

I'm not from Washington where the scavengable Soobies are bountiful.

 

It almost seems like the EA Subarus come there to spend their last days on the pastures til the ocean beckons for their precious metals and they at last collapse in large groups.

 

Then we come in, like some sort of hoarding hermit crabs bent on creating Frankensteins from the remains.



#36 Gloyale

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 12:53 PM

Yes, but it is the front axles that are weak, no?

 

I never heard of the rears causing so much trouble, at least before they start causing loads of trouble xD

 

Fronts break from lots of stop and go and tight turns in town......espescially if you put an EJ in the car.

 

Rears break while 4-wheelin......espescially if you have a lift without any bumpstops or crossbracing.

 

Personally I think the rears are the weak link.....I know how to drive to keep from breaking fronts in town.

 

But when you are climbing a hill and all the power goes to the rear wheel thats stuffed up into the body with tons of weight.........POP!



#37 SnatchedHatch

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 01:07 PM

What, avoiding sharp turns and especially powering through them? I imagine avoiding any stresses in turns such as hitting bumps and holes and taking it easy on tracks.

Any useful tips?

 

My front bearing is going, but this (cough 3rd) aftermarket CV shaft is actually holding up. I'll try anything, although I wish there was a set I could order that was "bulletproof". I don't like be restricted in my Subarooing shenanigans :(

 

Fronts break from lots of stop and go and tight turns in town......espescially if you put an EJ in the car.

 

Personally I think the rears are the weak link.....I know how to drive to keep from breaking fronts in town.



#38 Gloyale

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 01:22 PM

Yeah......Espescially with my lifted Wheeler......I start slowly and gently from a stop......I don't give it full throttle dropping into second......And I never give it full throttle during a full lock turn like in a parking lot or turning out into the road from a parking lot.

 

Also....If you are running an "over stock" lift  i.e. just strut tops or more strut top lift than subframe......It's a good idea to unclip the small end of the inner CV boot.....and slide the boot up the shaft, and reclip so it is not stretched so far all the time.  Ripped boots kill axles before they're time.



#39 Dinky26

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 05:20 PM

Tell that to my cringingly stretched CV shaft. You all have said that all EA81 compatible shafts will work when I made a thread awhile back on this topic.
Fact is my auto zone had 4 different lengths of reman or aftermarket for my car. Most were so long they wouldn't bolt up. And one was too short but I believe that was for an automatic.
The one I settled on now is stretched more than the original one my car came with. Don't know what else to say, other than I'll post an update when I find a suitable one.


Autozone be your problem there, sometimes they just can't get it right. Even though I frequent them a lot, they very close to me, thus I generally know what I need before I get there.





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