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EA82T

IDLE

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11 replies to this topic

#1 ARJ

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Posted 02 December 2013 - 11:16 PM

Have a ea82 turbo when cold it won't idle no matter what idle adjustments .If throttle screw is wound in to let it idle cold ,it idles at 2000 hot  . this is a 2nd hand motor I brought heaps of power uses no oil but seems to have a miss at low rpm's . Remove a spark plug lead doesn't seem to make much difference . Could timing belt be out , injectors cracked ends    HELP 

      

    ARJ



#2 Prwa101

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 12:34 AM

Did you check you timming?

#3 john in KY

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 04:23 AM

That whatever it is called on top of the thermostat housing controls the cold idle. A vacuum leak in one of the intake manifold runners will cause a low speed miss. Check the vacuum lines for cracks. 



#4 jono

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 03:04 PM

how'd it happen? motor before idle nice ? So, you got lotsa spares to interchange or was 2nd hand engine incomplete and needed you to swap bits before it would work ? The little rubber seals of the injectors can, but rarely cause an idle and miss problem.

Pull the front covers off both cam wheel locations and check the marks line up symetrically with the three lll marks on the flywheel. You need to rotate it clockwise a revolution ata time to check alternate sides.

EA82T basic inlet manifold or EJ style spider inlet ?



#5 ARJ

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Posted 04 December 2013 - 01:32 AM

 Thanks shall check the belts tomorrow .Think I know what you mean 

Can the flywheel be put on any other way but the correct way . As I can't find a timing mark with a timing light and there is a fair bit of crankcase pressure . Does sound like a timing problem shall pull the front covers off to check . BUT even if the marks align whats this about the left side needing a separate  revolution once marks are lined up ?? Also it seem the motor only runs when the dizzy rotor is pointing to number 3 plug with those three marks on the pointer ??.

   My first turbo ,first 4 cylinder ,only ever worked on vintage cars before rugged but easy to work on much simpler .

  Thanks for the help      ARJ



#6 NorthWet

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Posted 04 December 2013 - 02:23 AM

There is only one way for the flywheel to go on.  The 3 hash marks (III) on the flywheel are used for lining up the timing belts only. the distributor-side belt is lined up first, then the engine is rotated one full turn until the hash marks come up again, and then the non-disty-side belt is lined up.  At this point the mark on the cam sprocket on the non-disty-side should be pointing straight up, and the mark on the other side should be pointing straight down.

 

Assuming that this is an 87 or newer, the ignition timing is set by first connecting the diagnostic green connectors that are under the dash and just above the driver's side knee-trim piece.  Connect light, and look for standard-type timing marks on the flywheel.



#7 jono

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Posted 04 December 2013 - 03:05 AM

those three lll marks are an ingenious EA82 only thing I believe, no other manufacturer has done it ...it is the sweet spot of the valve springs having no resistance either way on the cams, so position the timing mark on the casing with the middle of the three and it is for setting belts only - at this point there is no spring trying to turn the engine over this way or that! Lets you get on with business rather than fight cam wheels, crank etc moving on you just when you don't want them to.

 

First flat engine too ?

 

First all alloy engine as well ?

 

Watch out, the Suby bug has bit you :)



#8 el_freddo

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Posted 04 December 2013 - 07:35 AM

If you're messing with the idle adjustment screw you'll have to grab your multimeter and adjust your Throttle Position Sensor.  The idle is decided by the ECU, not by a mechanical screw in these EFI beasts.

Set the TPS and see what happens to your idle ;)

Cheers

Bennie



#9 ARJ

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Posted 04 December 2013 - 09:09 PM

Bennie  OK thanks but don't know how

      ARJ



#10 ruparts

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Posted 05 December 2013 - 01:23 AM

hi,

  not sure if you mean tha air flow screw that faces up on the back of the throttle body ,or the throttle plate stop screw.  if you are adjusting the idle adjust screw,  it is for adjustment for operating temp,,, there is another idle adjust screw on the mpfi throttle body for  idle adjustment,, it is about half the size of the main one and it faces back toward the firewall, it is horizontal and you need to look closely to locate it,  i think it is for the cold adjustment speed.   the big air thing on the thermostat housing is the main controller and it is run by a signal from the ecm, but they can get funky and not operate quite right.

 



#11 AKghandi

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Posted 05 December 2013 - 03:04 AM

i had this issue, it was a leaking intake pipe. from the maf to the turbo.



#12 ARJ

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 10:15 PM

Thanks for everyones help connecting the green plugs disconnecting suction advance and blocking hose . Resulting in able to set timing correctly so belts must be ok . new oil new filter plus oil flush additive resulted in smother idle . Ran engine 1hr including 20 minute drive .big difference . Drained oil , new oil , new filter plus a hydraulic lifter additive  nice quiet engine but cannot get idle below 1000 to  1200rpm . Also built in turbo bov now working ,wasn't before flush out . 2nd hand engine must of been on self a fair while and oil lines full off goo

 

 I'm in Australia not U.S.A. but hay guys thanks not sure what your additives are but I used Wynn's and in this case it worked to a treat .

 Re leaking oil pan gasket ,the secrete is the old standby new bolts with star washer locknuts clean surface's with white spirits or similar then use  loctite 587 gasket goo --- six mil -3/16 inch beed on sump leave stand 1 hr then smear engine pan with film of 587 and fit pan tighten to contact only leave 24hrs AND THEN tighten bolts in a opposite diagonal sequence . Works on bent eights and straight six and fours every time .

 Yeah the subbie bug is contagious and interesting even to an old fart like me (my son's terminology) 

     ARJ







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