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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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exhaust manifold bolts

88 GL wagon

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20 replies to this topic

#1 pooreboy82

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Posted 06 December 2013 - 11:58 PM

i just bought a 1988 Subaru GL wagon and the exhaust manifold bolts were missing and i need to find out the size of the bolts so i can drive the car. Also the heater does not work no blower motor sounds... In a Subaru could that be just a fuse?



#2 ShawnW

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 12:05 AM

M10x1.25 studs and stainless nuts are the proper items.  If they fell out chances are good you will need to take a timesert or if you can't find that a helicoil set and put inserts in the head to repair the holes.  

 

The heater blower motors do fail, more often the blower resistor but if it doesn't work any any of the speeds pull the plug off the motor and manually put 12V power and ground to the motor to see if it works at all.



#3 pooreboy82

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 11:30 AM

awesome thank you so much. Ive gone from working on old hot rods to Humvees up to 5 ton trucks in the Army and this Subaru has kinda thrown me a knuckle ball



#4 pooreboy82

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 11:31 AM

Shawn is it possible to just put bolts in it or am I better to just run studs?



#5 jono

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 03:30 PM

bolts of correct length won't hurt to get it up and running, but may come undone - just think the stud method allows a tighter and more resist to rattling undone than bolt system. Somewtimes thinking is not my strong point :(

The heater blower uses a clever little side tube that blows air back in on the electric motors brushes for cooling I'd think - comes with above warning - I have had rusty windscreen metalwork allow water to drop into the air ducting and the lowest point is the tube feed to the brushes and eventually stufs the motor bits. To fix this I removed the air feed tube to drain on the floor instead.



#6 pooreboy82

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 03:34 PM

so should I Loctite exhaust bolts in for added strength?



#7 pooreboy82

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 03:34 PM

also I just looked and it seems as though the exhaust is tweaked and doesn't line right up... is that normal?



#8 kabarakh

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 04:09 PM

Bolts tend to get stuck from the exhaust temps and then the heads break off

#9 El Presidente

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 07:17 PM

also I just looked and it seems as though the exhaust is tweaked and doesn't line right up... is that normal?

Yes, just push/pull it to where it needs to go. It helps to loosely bolt up the hanger under the tranny, then loosely bolt up one side of the exhaust, force it to where it needs to go on the other side and tighten everything down when its on. I think bolts are better than studs because the threads aren't exposed to elements and don't corrode as easily. I use bolts on all the EA82's I've dealt with and I've never had issues with them backing out and I also use copper anti seize so they don't lock up. I use copper anti seize on EVERY bolt that goes in the block(except head bolts).

 

Josh

 

-Just don't use soft bolts, go with hardened ones.


Edited by El Presidente, 07 December 2013 - 07:18 PM.


#10 Gloyale

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 09:36 PM

Tap for 7/16 stud.  Then if you strip that in the future, you can stil go the helicoil or insert repair method but not needed.  Tap for 7/16 stud.



#11 grossgary

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 11:48 PM

you can definitely use bolts.  all of our nut/stud combo's are permanently rust-welded and act like a bolt anyway when disassembled and reassembled so pretty much the entire northeast (an enormous portion of the US population) is effectively using a "bolt" every time work is done.  so far i've seen no issue with it.  if the nut/stud comes out without stripping the threads in the first place (biggest issue), they're easily reusable as  'bolt'.

 

that being said i use studs for consistency when i'm replacing them.


Edited by grossgary, 07 December 2013 - 11:49 PM.


#12 Adam N.D.J.

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 01:13 AM

Hey poor, welcome aboard.  If it turns out that your threads are ok, O'reilly's sells a "help" kit for toyotas that have the proper thread studs, some with nuts also.  Loctite doesn't work too well on exhaust due to the heat cycling.  I personally use the pinch style of locknut on my exhaust without any problem.  From someone that works on HMMWVs and LMTVs ever day I think that you should have no problem with the Soob, and will even like the interchangeability of them.  So many Soob parts cross years and models.  Lotsa luck!



#13 silverback

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 04:21 AM

If you have to drill and tap, use a depth limiter on your drill bit(s) to go only as deep as the original hole. You will be unhappy if you drill too deep.

#14 TomRhere

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 04:51 AM

If you opt to go with the 7/16" stud, no drilling is needed, tap will fit the existing hole. Best to use starting tap then follow with bottoming tap to get a couple more threads in the hole.

Plenty of material left to go with which ever thread repair kit you want to use should you decide to so to go back to "stock" thread size.



#15 ivans imports

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 11:36 AM

I drill the hole 1/4 inch deeper and tap it then use bolt from legacy head with stud bottomed out and locked in when it runs outa threads it sticks in the unthreaded part and will hold well



#16 Quidam

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 12:53 PM

What Tom said, use the bottom tap too with this method. Because it's important that it's done. Two taps.



#17 -tombba-

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Posted 10 December 2013 - 04:48 AM

I remember that the thread size in EA82 was M10x1.00 I'm pretty sure I used that size when changing the original studs to new one. I remember having a problem finding a proper size from a local shops so  I bought a bunch of good quality bolts that I just cutted the head of and sed them as a stud instead. BUT don't go rushing to buy this size yet and istead make sure wich size you got there first.

 

What comes to using studs versus bolts is that the stud can be usually tightened more than normal bolt and you don't have to worry so much about the head threads when tightening as you would with normal bolts.



#18 Gloyale

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Posted 10 December 2013 - 08:09 PM

They are M10 x 1.25

 

1.00 and 1.5 are easier to find.



#19 -tombba-

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Posted 11 December 2013 - 11:49 AM

Well mine was M10x1.0 as I just checked it. I don't know why it is different size but all of my heads have that size. It's the finer thread that was hard to find here since the M10x1.25 is the sually used one.

#20 Gloyale

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Posted 11 December 2013 - 12:26 PM

Well mine was M10x1.0 as I just checked it. I don't know why it is different size but all of my heads have that size. It's the finer thread that was hard to find here since the M10x1.25 is the sually used one.

 

This is opposite of the norm.

 

I hate to argue with someone on another continent, but I REALLY doubt subaru tapped your heads different in finland than the US.

 

Subaru only used 1.00 thread on flywheel bolts.  Everything else in the car is 1.25

 

Toyota and most others use alot of 1.00 and 1.5



#21 -tombba-

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Posted 12 December 2013 - 06:40 AM

The thing is that my heads have M10x1.00 studs in them. I didn't say that it's possible someone has filled them and redrilled them into that size. The standard M10 bolt used in here has 1.50 pitch so the M10x.1.25 bolt is already harder to find here. 






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