iac valve need cleaned or worse?
Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
 |
Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created. We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning ** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it! Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998! |
Guest Message by DevFuse
2.2 high idle
Started by
cc22
, Dec 22 2013 10:12 AM
10 replies to this topic
#1
cc22
-
- Members
-
- 11 posts
Member
- Adamsville, PA
Posted 22 December 2013 - 10:12 AM
96 legacy 2.2, recently switched itself to 2,000rpm idle and takes 5 seconds for rpm to drop enough to match up next gear.( dropping very slow) 296k iac valve need cleaned or worse?
iac valve need cleaned or worse?
#2
johnceggleston
-
- Members
- 6,712 posts
Lite Master of the Subaru
- Virginia
Posted 22 December 2013 - 11:08 AM
look for an open vac line.
this sounds like an air leak.
#3
cc22
-
- Members
-
- 11 posts
Member
- Adamsville, PA
Posted 22 December 2013 - 03:48 PM
didn't find any problems of what I can see with vac lines, checking manual to see if I missed any
#4
cc22
-
- Members
-
- 11 posts
Member
- Adamsville, PA
Posted 22 December 2013 - 03:57 PM
vac lines seem to be fine.
#5
Fairtax4me
-
- Members
- 13,031 posts
Sooberoo
- Charlottesburg, VA
Posted 22 December 2013 - 04:12 PM
Does it idle that high on cold start? Does the idle stay that high when the engine is warm? Or is it just hanging between shifts?
Replace the PCV valve if it hasn't been done recently. Check all the breather and PCV hoses for splits. Be sure to check the hose to the MAP sensor, and the hoses under the manifold to the purge solenoid.
Could have a stuck Nuetral position switch on the trans. It's the furthest back of the two switches on the side of the trans. Follow the wire up to the bellhousing and unplug it. Check the switch for changing continuity as you move the shifter in and out of gear.
Replace the PCV valve if it hasn't been done recently. Check all the breather and PCV hoses for splits. Be sure to check the hose to the MAP sensor, and the hoses under the manifold to the purge solenoid.
Could have a stuck Nuetral position switch on the trans. It's the furthest back of the two switches on the side of the trans. Follow the wire up to the bellhousing and unplug it. Check the switch for changing continuity as you move the shifter in and out of gear.
#6
cc22
-
- Members
-
- 11 posts
Member
- Adamsville, PA
Posted 22 December 2013 - 07:16 PM
it is idling a shade high when cold, just before coming to a complete stop, it'll drop down to near 1250rpm. replaced pcv today with no changes. rpm hang when I take off without warming car since I got it, always went away within a few miles.whatever it is must have been on way out
#7
cc22
-
- Members
-
- 11 posts
Member
- Adamsville, PA
Posted 30 December 2013 - 06:07 PM
both o2 sensors are gone, but have turned 4k miles without problems. car has no check engine light
#8
Gloyale
-
- Members
- 10,835 posts
It's a sickness
- Corvallis, OR PNW
Posted 30 December 2013 - 06:22 PM
it is idling a shade high when cold, just before coming to a complete stop, it'll drop down to near 1250rpm. replaced pcv today with no changes. rpm hang when I take off without warming car since I got it, always went away within a few miles.whatever it is must have been on way out
High idle until the car is warmed up is %100 normal.
Colder the morning, the more pronounced this effect will be, the longer it will hold this sustained idle. Can make for unwanted acceleration on manual vehichles if you take off right away.
#9
cc22
-
- Members
-
- 11 posts
Member
- Adamsville, PA
Posted 31 December 2013 - 07:00 AM
ran for a good hour, drove fast, sat in garage, was plenty warmed up. takes almost 10 seconds for rpm to drop from 4,ooo to 2,5oo. gonna start pulling vac lines tomorrow
#10
86BRATMAN
-
- Members
- 3,963 posts
Elite Master of the Subaru
- Tazewell Virginia
Posted 31 December 2013 - 09:13 AM
Manually open the throttle body and see how long it takes to close back completely, should be almost instantaneous. You may have some corrosion building up making throttle closing slow. If it passes the first part, have a helper do the same thing with the accelerator pedal while you watch the throttle body.
#11
Gloyale
-
- Members
- 10,835 posts
It's a sickness
- Corvallis, OR PNW
Posted 01 January 2014 - 02:18 PM
ran for a good hour, drove fast, sat in garage, was plenty warmed up. takes almost 10 seconds for rpm to drop from 4,ooo to 2,5oo. gonna start pulling vac lines tomorrow
When it's doing this, grab the IAC hose and pinch it closed....see if the idle drops.
If it does.....that's a stuck open IAC. Which means a weak "close" coil.....
So Vacuum pulls it nearly closed........but not all the way....and not quickly like when IAC works proper.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users
