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EJ swap and motor mounts


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19 replies to this topic

#1 92loyale59

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Posted 05 January 2014 - 01:20 PM

so since i have finished my EJ swap in my 92 loyale my biggest problem has been keeping the motor mounts from spliting. they both split on the inner top of the mount closest to the engine and oil pan . i used the search thing to find others solution and i found that someone made a shim . im just wondering if there were any other ways to fix this problem and or more details about the shim .. thanks alot



#2 Gloyale

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Posted 05 January 2014 - 01:35 PM

Do you have a pitch stopper rod?

 

You need one or this will keep happening.

 

Shouldn't this be in retrofitting???


Edited by Gloyale, 05 January 2014 - 01:36 PM.


#3 Prwa101

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Posted 05 January 2014 - 01:36 PM

I used a 1/4" piece of rebar on the end that the gap is. Tighten us down good. Can't find a picture though.

Good luck.

#4 monstaru

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Posted 05 January 2014 - 02:03 PM

Do you have a pitch stopper rod?

 

You need one or this will keep happening.

 

Shouldn't this be in retrofitting???

yes .should be in retro.

Open your mounting holes up to the outside a skosch, and put a pitchstopper in.



#5 presslab

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Posted 05 January 2014 - 02:31 PM

Here you go, from our friends down under!  RSR_555 is a top notch guy.

 

http://www.ausubaru....ead.php?t=19020



#6 monstaru

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Posted 05 January 2014 - 02:52 PM

You don't need shims. But if you wanted to use them, you don't have to order them from Oz. Just go get some  shims for a lifted solid axle rig and enlarge the hole.



#7 presslab

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Posted 05 January 2014 - 04:28 PM

Everyone is entitled to their own level of craftsmanship.  The fact is that the angle is different and it stresses the mounts.  I have used those Oz shims and they do work great.  If you've actually used those solid axle shims maybe you could post a link to the ones that you used.



#8 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 05 January 2014 - 05:15 PM

the round ones Ive brocken a few, the rectangular ones Ive never broke



#9 Uberoo

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Posted 05 January 2014 - 05:34 PM

when they do break you can always fill the motor mounts with urathane window weld to fix them and stiffen them up.

#10 monstaru

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Posted 05 January 2014 - 10:31 PM

Everyone is entitled to their own level of craftsmanship.  The fact is that the angle is different and it stresses the mounts.  I have used those Oz shims and they do work great.  If you've actually used those solid axle shims maybe you could post a link to the ones that you used.

Degrees are degrees.

What degree difference are your shims?

Pretty sure there are solid axle shims that would match. It was a suggestion. Ya know . For people to try.

 

I am saying that to be sure of such an answer , one must have tried all.

HAve you?

POst your findings then!

I cant wait to hear them!



#11 el_freddo

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Posted 06 January 2014 - 06:24 AM

I made a set of shims from two shims used in the steering column of old holdens - these still needed to be ground down a fair bit.


If you had some flat bar steel 4 or 5mm thick you could grind yourself a set - just takes time.  Be sure to drill the hole first, otherwise drilling on an angle after grinding will be fun...

I've never had an issue with engine mounts, but I've always run these shims too.  I'm currently running the EA82 engine mounts in the front hole of the EJ engine mount plate and have sleeved the gearbox crossmember holes for the gearbox mounts.  This effectively pushes my drive train back about 15-20mm; so far that I've found the back of the sump rubs on the engine crossmember (now that I've got the engine out) - no noise there though.

 

I've heard to avoid the round engine mounts like the plague for an EJ into an L series/MY as they don't last long.  

Cheers

Bennie



#12 92loyale59

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Posted 06 January 2014 - 12:46 PM

sorry i had no clue it should be in the retro fitting part . i figured since i broke them off road this would be a good place to post it hah but i get it now. i do have a pitch stopper so i do not believe thats the problem .i also am using the square mounts . i got some new mounts to day for 44 a piece so i will try a 1/4 inch flat stock on the lower end and see if they are still gonna break. im hoping they dont . i will try to post a picture of the shims if it seems to work for me



#13 92loyale59

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Posted 07 January 2014 - 02:37 PM

so i figured my problem out. when i made the custom length pitch stopper i made it about a 1/4 inch to long and the old wore motor mounts didn't hold the engine where they were suppose to. so when i installed the new mounts with a 1/4 inch shim again the pitch stopped was too lond . so i cut and welded it shorted and now it fits. so i would say make sure your motor mounts aren't so worn that it makes the engine sag forward . ...

 here is a picture of the shim and the old mounts installed with the shims

Attached File  engine mount shim.jpg   32.81K   38 downloads

Attached File  old mount with shim.jpg   21.68K   42 downloads



#14 monstaru

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Posted 07 January 2014 - 04:37 PM

Brand new engine mounts without a transmission will sag forward. Yours were being pushed forward.
There is a reason the original pitch stoppers had adjustment. I usually use a 3/4 inch piece of threaded rod, sleeved to the original firewall bushing.

cheers

Edited by monstaru, 07 January 2014 - 04:38 PM.


#15 92loyale59

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Posted 08 January 2014 - 03:44 AM

Brand new engine mounts without a transmission will sag forward. Yours were being pushed forward.
There is a reason the original pitch stoppers had adjustment. I usually use a 3/4 inch piece of threaded rod, sleeved to the original firewall bushing.

cheers

they had adjustments? the pitch stoppers off the loyales or the legacys ??



#16 monstaru

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Posted 08 January 2014 - 09:22 AM

Loyale.



#17 Gloyale

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Posted 08 January 2014 - 09:43 AM

Loyale.

 

hmmm.......EA81 yes..

 

Loyale, no......not adjustable other than the slotted hole on the mount.



#18 92loyale59

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Posted 08 January 2014 - 06:04 PM

okay i was really confused on how i could have missed that



#19 monstaru

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 09:15 AM

So your saying that the slotted hole is not for adjustment? It is designed to set the motor  to where the mounts are flat, is it not?

I guess it really depends on if you have the transmission attached when you tighten it down or not .

 

cheers



#20 Gloyale

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 10:55 PM

So your saying that the slotted hole is not for adjustment? It is designed to set the motor  to where the mounts are flat, is it not?

I guess it really depends on if you have the transmission attached when you tighten it down or not .

 

cheers

 I pry between the stopper and the rod to put it under some load as I tighten the bolt.

 

So there is less nuetral play upwards for the motor.  The rod is always pushing down a bit.






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