KNGCWLL Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 I'm swapping the working motor, better transmission, intact front axles and some other misc. parts out of my shitty broken GL into a way cleaner Loyale that I just got with a blown motor. I pulled the first motor and transmission from the Loyale no problem. Usually when I replace front axles I bang on them with a sledge hammer until I want to kill myself then bang more and they come out but this time they were extra stuck and I ended up damaging the spindle in the process on both sides. They were busted and flinging grease etc so I wasn't worried, like I said I planned to take the good ones from the other car. HOWEVER I need to move the Loyale so I can get the GL in the garage to pull that motor. I wanted to just roll the Loyale out and drive the GL in but when I went to go put the front wheels on, I noticed that without the axles, there is nothing holding the rotor to the hub (besides the caliper just holding it in place). So I'm 99% sure I can't move anything without putting the axles back in. Buut like I said, I massacred the spindles so I cant screw the crown bolt on to get the axle back on. So my two questions are: 1. Is there any way to get the axles back in without the crown bolt? I'm not going anywhere, it just needs to roll like 20 feet. 2. Is there anything I can do besides putting the axles back in to get the car to move? I feel like I'm not the first one to have this problem, maybe I am. The alternative is slowly rolling the Loyale out using a floor jack or pulling the GL motor in the rain and putting everything including axles back into the Loyale so it will move but that leaves the GL with the same issue, parked in my drive way with no front wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 you can drive the axles in from behind by beating ont he doj end. put a block of wood in between. you can separate teh outer end of the axle by drifting it off of the shaft. you might be able to insert a pipe and a long bolt with washers to hod the rig together. you can roll the car with the front axles not connected to the trans, just let them ride on the parking brake cable (you can tow like this too) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 it would probably be easiest to just swap the whole hub/strut/axle assembly over the toeh other car to roll it out, and then swap it back to the other car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Even though the axles hold the hub to the bearings, the fit is tight enough you can roll it straight back and straight forward with no worries. Done it before. You'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 (edited) you said the spindles are trashed from beeting on it - just lower the car onto the ground or something worth trashing up and pull it out with another car. install axles into hub temporarily (but not trans) and roll it out with wheels. lower the front of the car onto something, a dolly a ..anything, and just pull it out - without the engine trans it shouldn't be that hard to move around? http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-mini-movers-dolly-60497.html pick it up with the 3 point hitch of a tractor and drag it out. got an engine lift - yank the front of the car up and try carefully sliding it out via that. got a come along... Edited January 9, 2014 by grossgary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Even though the axles hold the hub to the bearings, the fit is tight enough you can roll it straight back and straight forward with no worries. Done it before. You'll be fine. that's what i'm thinking - toss wheels on it and you're done. but i'm thinking the lugs aren't available either to attach the wheel too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KNGCWLL Posted January 9, 2014 Author Share Posted January 9, 2014 I was thinking of the pipe w/ bolts and washer idea, less banging, quick and easy, but I wanted to see if there was anything better. One trip to the hardware store may take a little longer than banging the trashed axles back in but if I have to beat it out again later and then in again..... maybe too much hammering for me. it would probably be easiest to just swap the whole hub/strut/axle assembly over the toeh other car to roll it out, and then swap it back to the other car I like that idea, I'll probably do that when I swap the new axles on the new car because now I'm paranoid, the GL's suspension is generally in better condition, and I am getting really really really tired of hitting things. Even though the axles hold the hub to the bearings, the fit is tight enough you can roll it straight back and straight forward with no worries. Done it before. You'll be fine. Really? So don't even do anything? That surprises me, I put the wheel on and it felt like it was just hanging there by the brakes, I don't even know what would be holding up the car. But I don't want to over simplify it, if that works I'll do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 You did say Loyale, and that may be my bad as I was focused on the GL. Duh... Still, if you bolt the tire on it shouldn't be floppy like that. I haven't seen a FWD car yet that couldn't be just rolled without the axles in. Something else isn't right if you put on the tire and it's floppy. All FWD bearings are press fit to a degree even though the axle stub does 'keep them together'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 You did say Loyale, and that may be my bad as I was focused on the GL. Duh... Still, if you bolt the tire on it shouldn't be floppy like that. I haven't seen a FWD car yet that couldn't be just rolled without the axles in. Something else isn't right if you put on the tire and it's floppy. All FWD bearings are press fit to a degree even though the axle stub does 'keep them together'. 88 corolla I recently put a clutch in had big warnings about not putting weight on the wheels w/axles removed, Something about distorting the bearings,I think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Got a couple skateboards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 You can't just bolt the wheels on, the axle holds the hub to the spindle. It's not the BEST way to go, but lay some ply wood in a trail for the floor jack to roll on, then lift by the crossmember and roll it back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KNGCWLL Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 One of the wheels was significantly more floppy than the other, the passenger side actually seemed like it even would hold up the car if I lowered it and the driver's side was clearly just hanging there by magic. I ended up rolling it with the 3 quasi-legitimate wheels on and a floor jack on the other side. Later when I looked closer at the hubs, I noticed that the driver's side was missing that seal that fits around the rotor and possibly part of the bearing or whatever's behind that. I found it stuck on the end of the one of the axles. I don't even know how that would happen... maybe it was put together wrong? Is there a similar seal on the other side of the hub that may have popped off with the axle and the part on the rotor side just happens to also be missing? Excuse my lack of experience, I'm new to this car and I usually mess around with the motor and stay away from the suspension for the most part. I'm out of town for the week but I'll post a picture or two when I get back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damnsubaru Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 i tried towing my 88dl wagon without axles and it worked for 1/2 miles then went south wheel went sidways caught on fire melted the brake line thank god for mud puddles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 You did say Loyale, and that may be my bad as I was focused on the GL. Duh... Still, if you bolt the tire on it shouldn't be floppy like that. I haven't seen a FWD car yet that couldn't be just rolled without the axles in. Something else isn't right if you put on the tire and it's floppy. All FWD bearings are press fit to a degree even though the axle stub does 'keep them together'. GL/ loyale/brat all the same. Any EA series subaru, YOU CANNOT safely roll the car AT ALL without an Axle stub installed throught the hub. If you do, the on;y thing keeping the hub from coming off is the brake caliper bracket pinning the rotor. EA bearings are not like other cars where the hub is pressed intot eh bearing, on an EA car the hub is held "ONLY" by the large center castle nut. Without that, the hub just slides off, and since the wheel bolts to the hub......yah So for all future reference.......DO NOT ROLL AN EA CAR WITHOUT BOTH AXLES** installed in the front end. **Note an outer end axle stub with shaft removed can be used for rolling or RWD conversion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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