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2" or 4" Lift - I need your input!


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16 replies to this topic

#1 nkmilesAE95

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 10:58 AM

I've got an 88 GL wagon - just got my bonus check from work  :banana: and i am going straight for a lift and tires!  I am having some issues deciding what lift to go with.  Honestly, this car will spend most time on the road, and i do a fair bit of driving so i would like for the car to still drive and handle well on the road - but that being said, i will def get her dirty from time to time, and like to get off the beaten path, as we all do.  I am planning to run some Grabber AT2's - 225/70-15 or something close to 27" diameter.  I would rather not use a BFH is i can avoid it.  Anyone out there who has driven both lift sizes - do they handle much different? Much of difference in stress on parts with the 2" vs 4"?  I know each lift stresses the axle 1" above stock.  How is the install on both?  Is the 4" work the additional $175?  Any input will help - i have scoured the forums, and although the info is out there, it is all spread out, and some info isnt there.  Thanks in advance!    



#2 Prwa101

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 11:42 AM

2" is easy to build, and easy to put in. You can always change it out down the road. I suggest to look at pictures of other people's cars on here and see what you want yours to look like.

Prwa

#3 newgen85brat

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 12:02 PM

To run 15's you are going to have to have a good size lift.  I have 14's with a two inch lift and I am planning on upgrading to a 3 in front with 2 in back as a straight 2 inch still hits on the fenders when turning.  Of course you can cut fender wells out. 



#4 nkmilesAE95

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 12:21 PM

To run 15's you are going to have to have a good size lift.  I have 14's with a two inch lift and I am planning on upgrading to a 3 in front with 2 in back as a straight 2 inch still hits on the fenders when turning.  Of course you can cut fender wells out. 

 

Thanks for the input - i might head to the JY this weekend to try to track down some 14's.  I want to run an old set of 4Runner wheels, but they have a 4.5" backspacing.  Is this doable?  I like the look so these cars with 14" wheels - i think they look more proportional than 15" wheels, but i do love the look of the 80's 4Runner alloys... The toyota wheels are 2.5 hours away though.. good deal, but would rather not drive that far, and they not work. 



#5 92loyale59

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 12:39 PM

i would go two inch if i were you . that is what i have and i dont hav problems getting anywhere really. its great for a daily. they re also easy to install. also i made my lift so the axles are only stressed a half a inch. you will need to massage your wheel wells a little but its still doable . i would not suggest getting general grabber at 2s if you plan on diving ot on the road often cause they have a pretty soft tread compound .but overalll thats a awesome tire . its what im running . here is a link to my build so you can get a idea on how much you would need to cut and what a 2 inch  lift looks like

http://www.ultimates...2-loyale-build/

hope that helps some



#6 nkmilesAE95

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 01:54 PM

i would go two inch if i were you . that is what i have and i dont hav problems getting anywhere really. its great for a daily. they re also easy to install. also i made my lift so the axles are only stressed a half a inch. you will need to massage your wheel wells a little but its still doable . i would not suggest getting general grabber at 2s if you plan on diving ot on the road often cause they have a pretty soft tread compound .but overalll thats a awesome tire . its what im running . here is a link to my build so you can get a idea on how much you would need to cut and what a 2 inch  lift looks like

http://www.ultimates...2-loyale-build/

hope that helps some

Thanks - that is definitely good to know man!  Great build, pretty much everything i want to do with mine!  Thanks for the heads up on the general grabbers - i will keep that in mind when i start shopping.  I still need to track down a set of wheels.  I am afraid to pull the trigger on the Toyota wheels - i don't want to get them on there and have tons of rubbing due to backspacing - something that surely could have been avoided if i went with a different wheel.  Junkyard is under a foot of snow right now... not my favorite thing to do in the snow, that's for sure.  I think we have a few isuzus and mazdas right now.  I may be able to find something that would work.   

 

I saw in your build that you picked up a set of toyota 6 lugs - how did those work for you?  


Edited by nkmilesAE95, 09 January 2014 - 01:54 PM.


#7 wagonist

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 06:12 PM

Why is there a 1" stress on the axles? Sounds like the kits there are 2" blocks on top of the suspension & 1" everywhere else.

The majority of kits here lift everything by the same amount. Yes, this leaves the engine/trans/diff at the same height above the ground, but the 2 points of the lift is to get bigger wheels under the car, and this gives the increased suspension clearance, and then to increase the entry/departure angles.

 

If you're going to go rock-crawling, then the extra 1" height would help, otherwise you can drive around any other hazards.

 

I've had 215/65R14 tyres on Peugeot rims (so stick out further) which only just rubbed (on the inner guard) when I had a 2" kit.



#8 92loyale59

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 06:14 PM

i never ended up getting the 6 lug wheels they weren't what i was looking for i guess you could say ha



#9 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 06:44 PM

I found what I believe could be the best "Combo" for mixed driving:

 

I use my Subaru "BumbleBeast" 60% on road as daily Driver on City Streets and Highways; and 40% offroading during weekends to "Mountain Adventure" trips with my family; so I found that the Best combo for that kind of usage, is a two (2") lift plus dropping the engine's crossmember to keep the axles as straight as possible; also I run it with 25" tires (205/60-R15) all terrains in order to keep well balance between power / Driving conditions \ fuel economy.

 

Kind Regards.



#10 El Presidente

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 08:02 PM

To run 15's you are going to have to have a good size lift.  I have 14's with a two inch lift and I am planning on upgrading to a 3 in front with 2 in back as a straight 2 inch still hits on the fenders when turning.  Of course you can cut fender wells out. 

 

Wheel size has nothing to so with tire size. You can get 15's that are almost the exact same size as the 185/70/r13's on most gl's, or you can get 15's that are twice the size of stock GL tires. I recommend 15" wheels because tires are easier to get and cheaper, plus you have more variety.

 

OP, I've never driven a 4", but I've DD my 6" lifted rig with 31's and had a couple 2" lifted rigs that I DD'd, both running 27's. Unless you pull the sway bar, they all pretty much handle the same. None of my cars had sway bars and its squirrelly at first, but you get used to it fast. Since these cars have independant suspension, body roll isn't as much of a problem like with a solid axle rig like a toyota or Jeep. The 2" option is a safe one, but 27's will require cutting to not rub on your fenders. A 2" is cheap to get into and can be sold for about what you have into it pretty safetly. On a 2" lift you don't need to drop anything, but it does help take stress off axles. I always just lifted at the struts and rear shocks and called it a day.

 

On road ability of a 2" is great and offroad is still really amazing, but your gonna bend more sheet metal. When I made my lift blocks on my 6" rig I set the camber to be slightly negative to help on-road manners in the corners and its helped a lot. You can do the same with a 2", just cut your blocks to 18 or 19 degrees instead of 17.

 

Josh



#11 91 subaru

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 08:37 PM

Two inch is what you want. easy to build yourself and easy to install. i had a 91 loyale with a 2 inch lift and 235/75/15 tires. lots of hammer smashing and a little bit of cutting and it was great

#12 Gloyale

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 11:09 PM

4" for sure if you want to leave the fenders and wheel wells intact.

 

HighGuysLifts.com 

 

or PM me here to order.

 

Our 4" kit drops all the front suspension evenly, keeping stock geometry and axle angles for daily usage.

 

A high clearance version can be ordered, w/ 4" on the struts and 2" for the crossmember and raduis plates.  This kit runs higher CV angles and positive camber.  Better suited for all out "wheelers"



#13 nkmilesAE95

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Posted 10 January 2014 - 09:49 AM

4" for sure if you want to leave the fenders and wheel wells intact.

 

HighGuysLifts.com 

 

or PM me here to order.

 

Our 4" kit drops all the front suspension evenly, keeping stock geometry and axle angles for daily usage.

 

A high clearance version can be ordered, w/ 4" on the struts and 2" for the crossmember and raduis plates.  This kit runs higher CV angles and positive camber.  Better suited for all out "wheelers"

PM sent!



#14 nkmilesAE95

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 02:51 PM

Decided to go with a 3" full drop kit from Highguyslift.  I will keep all stock geometry and should be able to stuff a 27" without cutting or using a BFH.  Stoked to see that package show up on my front porch.  I picked up a set of Toyota 15x7 alloys this weekend off of a 91 4Runner - my GLs maiden voyage on the fresh heads, HGS, seals etc.  A 200 mile round trip to Orleans, IN and she ran great.  No issues at all.  My plan is to wrap them in Grabber A/T2s unless i find another tire that i like better between now and then.  The car is coming together, and after waiting what seemed like forever for parts, i couldn't be happier!



#15 nkmilesAE95

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 02:59 PM

For those of you who have installed a lift and had to replace coolant/rad hoses, shift linkage, etc - any pointers?  What did you do for rad hoses? Is there one out there that works?  ANY pointers are greatly appreciated.  Thanks!



#16 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 03:10 PM

I didn't need to change them with my 2" lift, only removed the mechanical fan's frame,

 

because I dropped the Engine's crossmember and the fan blades were impacting there. 

 

Kind Regards.



#17 nkmilesAE95

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Posted 18 February 2014 - 11:05 AM

Alright - i finally got my lift (Thanks Gloyale).  I got a good chance to work on it this weekend and have everything installed but the strut toppers. I didn't have to lengthen my pitch rod - i plan to lengthen my steering coupler tonight and deal with shift linkage when i get the car back on all 4 tires.  One thing that i am having some issues with is the intake hose from air box to intake - how did you guys lengthen this?  I could get a generic 3" hose and reducer to make it work, but what about the PCV and vacuum line?  And also, that strange cylindrical cavity that is sticking out of the side of the hose?  Anybody know what purpose this serves?  Is there a longer option available?  

 

The car is coming together and looks rather amusing rolling on the stock wheels and tires. Tires will be next!  Come on paycheck... 


Edited by nkmilesAE95, 18 February 2014 - 11:06 AM.





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