Doing the brekaer bar method is fine and no cause for damage or screw-up as long as you keep the direction of rotation in mind.
Another way to do this is put the car in gear and stand on the brake as mentioned above. Mind you, that the tool will probably turn 1/4 turn just to talke all the slack from the engine and driveline before it starts torquing the bolt. So put on the tool to allow for a 180 degree turn of the breaker bar to accomplish this.
Same or tightening, make sure to turn all the slack out of the driveline so the bolt can torqe up before you run out of travel for the tool (180 deg turn)
The volt vs the pulley should torque up a good 1/4 turn after it is snug. Torque value should be on the order of about 135-145 lb ft of torque.
1995 is a great model, since it has the same obd2 ecu as models thru 1998, but in most states, is not subject to emissions laws (for 1996 and later), and the engine has a non interference timing belt (no damage if it breaks) and the heads (composite gasket) are not prone to gasket failures like the later engines with MLS gaskets
Depending on your capacity, it's not a terrible idea to pull the engine out so you have better access to the front if you want to go ahead and remove the cam sprockets and servince the seals. This way you can use your tools straight on the engine for proper torquing, and this allows easier access tot he valve cover s and oil pan, and the chance to replace the baffle plate seal behind the engine block.
Replace the water pump and the idler pulleys along with the timing belts as the belts fail more often from bad bearing or seizure more often than the belt itself giving up.
Doing all that work at once will essentially guarantee you 100,000 miles before you need to look at anything major