I've completed my air to water intercooler install in my GL-10 wagon and EJ20G engine. My desire for the upgrade from the WRX TMIC were for less heat soak and more consistent power in the summer. I figured I'd document my results for anyone thinking of doing something similar.
Frozenboost type 14 intercooler
Frozenboost type 118 radiator
Jabsco 50840-0012 pump
GM Reservoir (pn 25884797) and 5 PSI cap (pn 15076936)
Generic Turbo XS type BOV
Fulree 12/24V IN 9V 5A OUT DC/DC converter
Metri-pack 280 waterproof connectors
4503-12-08 -- 3/4" Hose Barb x 1/2" NPTF 45° qty 2
4503-12-12 -- 3/4" Hose Barb x 3/4" NPTF 45° qty 1
4501-12-08 -- 3/4" Hose Barb x 1/2" NPTF 90° qty 1
5409-04 -- 1/4" NPTF Hex Socket Plug qty 1
4404-12-08 -- 3/4" Hose Barb x 1/2" NPTF qty 1
4404-12-12 -- 3/4" Hose Barb x 3/4" NPTF qty 1
This is what I received from Frozenboost:
I wanted to keep my AC condenser and trans cooler so that meant I needed to cut the bumper beam. I tried to keep most of the material and I beefed it back up a bit by welding some metal alongside what was left. Here's how much I cut out:
And here's the radiator mounted. Half of the radiator is behind the bumper beam, with that small gap there for airflow. I might cut more out after I get a feel for the how much heat the radiator can shed. You can see here that to work with the cut the bumper beam I trimmed the plastic, re-used the metal strip, and redrilled the holes to mount the bumper skin.
The lower fitting was perfect at 45 degrees, but the upper fitting needed to be more like 70 degrees to pass through the existing hole in the body. I cut and TIG welded the fitting and it didn't even leak.
The pump is mounted in the passenger fender. The brackets were welded to the bumper beam so no holes or welding on the body were necessary. The outlet hose runs up and around the back of the headlight and down to the frame rail. The flow routing could be hooked up a number of ways, but I decided I liked the Mercedes type routing the best. Intercooler->Reservoir->Radiator->Pump
Here is the intercooler mounted. I made a metal bracket that bolts to the spare tire hold-down nut and attaches to the back of the intercooler. The bracket is flexible which allows the intercooler to move a bit as the engine twists. Also there is a metal tab for the reservoir on the same bracket.
Now I'm getting some data from the system. I've tested the pump at different voltages and measured the flow rate with a paddle wheel flow meter I got on eBay. I tested it by filling up a 5 gallon bucket. It's pretty big and doesn't seem to affect the flow rate.
At 12.8V the pump draws 6A and flows 5.0 GPM. This is pretty good I think! This pump is also smooth and silent.
At 8.5V the pump draws 3.2A and flows 3.1 GPM.
At 5V the pump draws 1.8A and flows 1.25 GPM.
My plan is to use the "5th injector" relay that the EJ20G ECU has which is unused to run the pump at full voltage when under heavy load. When just cruising I will run the pump through a 9V regulator which will drop the power by half and increase the life of the pump. I will be adding my own code to the EJ20G ECU to control this relay. My algorithm thoughts are full speed for couple minutes at power on (for heat soak), full speed when above a certain load, and full speed for a couple minutes after load.
Results are great so far. I've been able to increase timing by a few degrees, more boost, and most importantly more consistent power. Heat soak is much better, although it could be improved. Heat shields and a reservoir would work well; I think a pretty big reservoir could be made up to fit inside the fender.
I've now installed a couple thermocouples to log IAT2 and coolant temp and I'll post my results later.