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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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2001 Outback H6 center diff slop

2001 Outback H6 centerdiff

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6 replies to this topic

#1 RodA

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 12:58 AM

Does anyone have experience with apparent looseness in the H6 center diiff/transfer clutch? I have the slop shown in this video (though this is not my car): 
 
The effect is a noticeable jerk when slowing down, just before the car stops. If I shift it into neutral before slowing, there is no jerk. From the photos I've seen, it looks like a sealed unit, until the multiplate units on other models. Is it possible to rebuilt it?
 
thanks
Rod


#2 nipper

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 11:50 PM

How many miles. Have you done the same thing looking at all the universal joints. Do all your tires match. ANy CEL or flashing ATF lights on startup?

 

Are the rear wheels off the ground in that pic? 



#3 RodA

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Posted 09 February 2014 - 06:10 AM

My car has done 150k. No obvious slop in the universals.No CEL or flashing ATF lights on startup. I found the same issue as that video with the rear wheels off the ground (note, that's not my video).



#4 CNY_Dave

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Posted 09 February 2014 - 10:55 PM

The manual trans cars have the sealed center diff, the H6s are all autos from the factory, with either the multiplate clutch or a center duiff with clutch on the VDC cars.

 

Try putting in the FWD fuse and see what happens, but this type of jerk is usually the torque converter lockup clutch disengaging late, I think.

 

Any service done recently? new trans filter etc?



#5 Fairtax4me

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Posted 10 February 2014 - 02:15 AM

The play in the driveshaft there is normal and nothing to worry about and is noticable when driving. It will not cause the car to jerk as it comes to a stop.
Jerking is either a downshift, or the torque converter clutch is not unlocking at the proper time.


The play that allows that movement is actually in the rear differential ring and pinion.
There is nothing in the transmission that locks the rear driveshaft when the trans is in Park. If you were to disconnect the rear section of the driveshaft from the rear differential, you could spin the driveshaft as much as you want.

#6 RodA

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Posted 10 February 2014 - 02:52 AM

Thanks for the replies. The car has VDC and I tried putting in a fuse to put it in FWD, but nothing changed. Should the VDC light have come on? I wasn't convinced that the fuse made contact as there is a raised green plastic strip in the middle of it, preventing the fuse from being pushed home, and running below the center of the adjacent relays. The fuse barely went in at all. So I pushed a bit a wire firmly in instead, still no difference. 

 

I recently changed the fluid to synthetic and replaced the filter. I pumped a fair amount out of the transmission with the engine as I filled it until it was mostly clear. It improved it quite a bit, engaging into drive much faster then before. 

 

I was jumping to false conclusions about the cause of the jerk on slowing, so thanks for the suggestions. I just did a test drive, and there is no jerk in 1st or 2nd (or neutral as I mentioned), but there is a consistent jerk in 3rd and 4th. Does that suggest a downshift or the torque converter clutch is not unlocking at the proper time? I'm guessing that in 3rd, the transmission does in fact shift down when coming to a stop.



#7 grossgary

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Posted 10 February 2014 - 05:50 AM

VDC equipped vehicles don't have a FWD fuse functionality.  it may have a labelled fuse holder as an artifact from using the H4 platform/parts for the H6 vehicles.  but it would do nothing or disable VDC, not put it in FWD.  or i think that's how they work.

 

2001 was a bit of an oddball being the first year H6 and VDC - it was the only one of that generation with a VDC off switch in the US.






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