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Newbie Here - EA82T No Spark at Coil...Tried Everything I Think!

spark coil distributor dizzy tach

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51 replies to this topic

#26 crookeam

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 11:55 AM

grossgary, thanks for the instrument cluster tip.  I'll check the driver's side belt again, though the distributor does turn while cranking...



#27 scoobiedubie

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 01:25 PM

  Timing is set properly, and rotor points at #1 cylinder when flywheel is at TDC.  

 

Correct timing is 22 to 24 degrees advanced, from my recollection.



#28 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 02:00 PM

A little off-topic, but very kindly let me ask:
 

... I have a gorgeous 1985 Turbo Sedan in incredible condition inside and out...  Car can be seen here: http://www.checkoutt...-subaru_14.html ...

 

Andrew,
 
I remember seeing that Awesome Turbo Sedan before, also I have photos of it; and as far as I remember, on the Driver door's information plate, it says it was made in October 1984, isn't it?
 
If that is the same car, its EA82T has pretty similar distributor management than the EA81T, could you post photos of it in order to properly help you find the issue? 


 
 

...Importantly, the tach does not respond when cranking....

 
 
But that sounds to me like Burned Ignition Module... However I could not be sure without being there doing tests, but seeing Photos of the Distributor might help.
 
Kind Regards.



#29 scoobiedubie

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 03:26 PM

It looks like an 86 GL10.



#30 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 06:35 PM

Yes, it it True, because the 1984 ~ 1986 were the Same, and 1987 ~ 1990 had some changes in design, engine management, wiring harness and optional equipment (More info, details & photos ~► Here) and then the late models 1990 ~ 1994 were simplier. 1990 was the Last year for Turbo EA82.

 

Kind Regards.



#31 scoobiedubie

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 07:25 PM

It depends on how you define the word "same".  85 and 86 headlights were different.  86 is when they started the headlight style that extended thru the loyale series.



#32 Gloyale

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 01:20 AM

It depends on how you define the word "same".  85 and 86 headlights were different.  86 is when they started the headlight style that extended thru the loyale series.

85 86 GL headlights are the same.  Only difference between 85 and 86 is 3rd brake light and mirrors in the window corner , rather than on the side of the door (85 glass is unique)

 

The headlight change you refer to happened in 87.  This now completes the hi-jack

 

this car is an 85



#33 scoobiedubie

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 02:32 AM

The sedan pictured, has the same headlights that were used for the loyale series.  The 85's had 2 smaller rectangular headlights on each side, where the one larger headlight occurs as in this sedan's picture.  There was no 84 version of the ea82 or ea82T, so the earliest year, being the 85, had the 2 smaller recangular headlight version.  Which means that this sedan is an 86.  86 model EA82T, first came off the production line at the end of 1985.  But that did not make it an 85 model.

 

This ebay advertisement shows an 85 headlight, and is identified as such.

http://www.ebay.com/...r#ht_1312wt_930


Edited by scoobiedubie, 15 February 2014 - 02:57 AM.


#34 crookeam

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 09:44 AM

Guys, it's a 1985 GL (yes, Loyale 2.7 Turbo, it's the same one you saw!) built in 10/84 as an '85 model.  The car is relatively new to me...18 months or so...and the PO could have made aesthetic changes before my ownership.  

 

I have tested 3 identical distributors, and hopefully all 3 Ignition Control Modules aren't fried!!  This is the rebuilt model I bought from Advance, and all 3 look like this.  http://shop.advancea...tion-_-General#  I can attach actual photos of the other 2 if necessary.  Still not getting spark at the coil.  

 

Gloyale, PM me regarding OEM coil and include your personal email if you are still interested!  Thanks!!



#35 scoobiedubie

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 11:37 AM

I have gone through about a dozen of those distributors in 400,000 miles.  They can go out in 50,000 miles or less.  The used ones then last much less because you don't know how many miles that they had on them before they got to you.  Remanufacturing does nothing to improve these numbers because the black plastic casing around the electronics, has no seams .  Other problems with those distributors is the ball bearings that allow the vacuum advance to work, gets either corroded or they gouge grooves into the two SS plates that they ride between.  Also the swing weights deep inside, get sloppy and can get hung up.  You have to take a distributor out of a currently working vehicle, if you want to be sure that you are working with a good one.


Edited by scoobiedubie, 15 February 2014 - 11:38 AM.


#36 Cougar

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 12:15 PM

It sounds like you had a ground wire incorrectly connected to the minus side of the coil and if so that is why the coil got hot. Excessive current flow through the coil windings. You may have damaged the coil windings by doing that. If you haven't already replaced the coil after removing the ground wire I suggest you do that.

 

To see if the disty is working correctly use a test light probe and place the tip on the minus side of the coil. Then crank the engine and see if the light flashes brightly while the engine is turning over. If that is good then either the coil is bad, the coil wire is open, or the igniter module is bad.



#37 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 01:22 PM

...There was no 84 version of the ea82 or ea82T...

In the Future, people will say that never existed a 2013 Subaru BRZ, because all were sold as 2014 models...

 

 

... yes, Loyale 2.7 Turbo, it's the same one you saw! built in 10/84 as an '85 model...

 

Yes, I Knew it! ... 1984 EA82T Sedan ... Awesome!

 

I'm Glad that it is on the Right Hands!

 

About the distributor problems, very kindly let me ask you if you already tested the Fusible Links? ... My question could sound foolish, but if they gets corroded or loose contact, they could make that issue also.

 

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 23 February 2014 - 01:30 AM.


#38 ivans imports

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 01:56 PM

Is the block grounded ? coil should not heat up have never seen a no spark form these dis units that was not the problems they had the bushing go out never seen a bad ig module I suspect bad wiring check small black ecu trigger wire outside shielding wires may be touching the signal part of wire critical the outside wireing dosent contact the inside wire or coil post as its a grounded shield wire



#39 scoobiedubie

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 02:43 PM

If by ignition module, you mean the ignition assembly that the key fits into on the steering column, they break at about 400,000 miles.  Mine did.



#40 Cougar

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 03:31 PM

The reason the coil got so hot was because the minus side of the coil was mistakenly tied directly to ground. The coil windings could very well be damaged due to that mistake.



#41 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 01:25 AM

If by ignition module, you mean the ignition assembly that the key fits into on the steering column...

 

Nope, it is the electronic part inside the Distributor,

 

that substituted the traditional contact points...

 

More info, here: (by the way, this writeup with photos could be helpful here)

 

~► Procedures to Test the Ignition Module on the Distributor.

 

Kind Regards.



#42 scoobiedubie

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 10:24 AM

The fusible links have to be all equally flexible and intact.  If the black wire feels slightly stiffer than the other links, change it out for one that is flexible but intact.



#43 Gloyale

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 06:07 PM

The sedan pictured, has the same headlights that were used for the loyale series.  The 85's had 2 smaller rectangular headlights on each side, where the one larger headlight occurs as in this sedan's picture.  There was no 84 version of the ea82 or ea82T, so the earliest year, being the 85, had the 2 smaller recangular headlight version.  Which means that this sedan is an 86.  86 model EA82T, first came off the production line at the end of 1985.  But that did not make it an 85 model.

 

Get your info from somewhere other than Ebay

 

85, 86 GLs and GL-10s have the same large headlights.  87+ look almost the same, but the adjuster screw is moved, grill mount moved a bit for the 87+ grill.

 

The 2 small rectangular lights per side are on DL models.......of all years from 85-88 or 89 (whenever they stopped making DLs)

 

This car is an 85.  Built late in 84 as an 85 model.  Get some FSMs and accurate info or don't screw with the thread.

 

 

It really doesn't matter what flippin lights he has because we know he has the early MPFI system and knock unit so EA81, EA82, '85 ,'86 doesn't matter. We've identified the system.

 

 

The reason the coil got so hot was because the minus side of the coil was mistakenly tied directly to ground. The coil windings could very well be damaged due to that mistake.

Bingo.

 

Should be able to substitue a Carbie coil......long as it's Hitachi.  IIRC they will have a "5" sticker on them.

Can we focus on the spark issue?


Edited by Gloyale, 16 February 2014 - 06:08 PM.


#44 ivans imports

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Posted 18 February 2014 - 10:03 AM

16 + years of fixing subarus have never seen a subaru coil not spark have seen them cracked damaged but never dead



#45 jono

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Posted 19 February 2014 - 05:24 AM

I had a coil fail, but not entirely - got me home. The next was a Bosch MEC 717 ?, it failed same miserable way a year later, by which time I had a genuine new one waiting. First lasted 23 years or so :)

 

anyone look at the dizzy in the link ? I did and copped an eyeful of Ketterings ignition points !

As for someone above asking if ignition module is where you stick the ignition key ....no, that is ignition barrel, the ignition module is inside the dizzy just under the rotor on EA82 carbs and Series 1 efi inc turbo


Edited by jono, 19 February 2014 - 05:26 AM.


#46 jono

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 05:51 AM

just found notes from ever helpful boys at subarupartsdepot.com

 

one dizzy loom 22183AA100 was for a model run from may 84 through to sept 85 of the RX in America, and another 22183AA090 for july85  to sept 86!

I wonder if there were difference in the dizzies to match the looms and if you have a mismatch ?



#47 angerthis

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Posted 21 February 2014 - 09:40 AM

that loose connector is nothing my 86 RXturbo has the same thing



#48 jono

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Posted 10 March 2014 - 02:32 AM

Four weeks later ....nothing. Have we given up, crushed it, gone into hibernation ?

 

I've come in to add the bits I have just found

 

If it is a three plug ECU, flapper style AFM with gold zinc knock sensor module running off the four pins on Hitachi distributor with vac can for boost/retard timing and springs and stuff inside - the factory coil has an A5 round sticker on it and C1T- 117 in red fine paint print on the side.

 

I have used a Bosch MEC 717 for a year before it pooped itself. Running genuine newie of above numbers since.

 

Come back and fill us in on your present torment!

 

I can go through each wire to coil to give what I have on mine to compare.

 

There is a factory test procedure using the test plugs in the loom under the bonnet as well


Edited by jono, 10 March 2014 - 02:43 AM.


#49 sixtycg

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Posted 10 March 2014 - 06:19 AM

I have a similar situation with an '87 GL wagon, only  it's an intermittent start/no start. As best as I can tell it's the power transistor, as there appears to be no other reason I'd get no spark. Why is it that it never shows up in the manual wiring diagrams or on any parts pages? Where can I find one?

 

Follow the two coil wires (should be wrapped in a harness) down to the little disc object mounted to the coil bracket. This is the power transistor. If this is not grounded (or bad) it will cause a no-start. You DID use the original coil bracket with the new Accel coil, yes?



#50 Cougar

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Posted 10 March 2014 - 09:55 AM

The transistor is called the ignitor in the drawings. I think you can get them at a regular parts store.







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