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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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to all torque bind experts.....!


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18 replies to this topic

#1 bgambino

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 09:33 PM

I have experienced torque bind before

Currently have it on my 96OB wagon --took rear drive shaft out till my mechanic

comes back from florida...and we will attempt it

 

The few times I have felt it....it was like this:  a real feeling of braking while doing 360's on dry pavement

Also....the tires would make a definite sound as they turn  at different rpms.....you would hear the tread fighting against the pavement

With sand/grit on the pavement and you would hear the tires slipping

 

So today...I bought a sweet 95 legacy L 4 dr with 123,000--automatic 2.2

But, it has something that seems like TB...but it does not feel or sound like what I have experience b4

 

in BJs parking lot,,,,,,doing 360's the tires really made no fighting sounds against the pavement,,,,it didn't even really feel like it was braking

 

It was odd....I will try my best to describe the sound/feel

 

Imagine a door whose hinges where not oiled...and the door could not swing smoothly

Instead, when you start pushing it---swinging it......it jumps 1/8"...and then another 1/8 and another and another etc...thru the whole swing it like a fine "ratcheting" sound

 

I don't know it that helps or makes it more confusing

All tires were same brand...tread seemed fairly close altho fronts definitely had some alignment issue wear

Seemed inflated ok ...but my eye is not a gauge

Tranny fluid smelled ok..looked ok...but not just changed

 

I put $200 down (2200 total)

I HAD to buy this car...its clean!--and my sons 96 2.2 has 235k on it....the vintage and motor are fantastic

 

I forgot when I saw it today about pulling the fuse...I assume the 95 has the FWD fuse?

Would someone explain again what it means?

1--pull fuse and nothing changes?

2--pull fuse and TB disappears?

 

thanks guys

 

 

 



#2 bgambino

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 09:38 PM

here it is

Attached Files



#3 Fairtax4me

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 09:41 PM

There is no fuse in the holder.
You have to put a fuse IN the holder to make it front wheel drive. The fuse disables the AWD transfer clutch.
FWD light in the dash should come on.

#4 bgambino

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 08:33 AM

I wont have the car for a few days...

so what could happen when I put the fuse in?

and what does each result lead me to?

 

my 96 had 16 AT light flashes...and then I did the diagnosis and got the code for Duty C

 

There were no AT flashes...altho...I did not look to see if the light was functioning....

Is there one of these lights on the 95?



#5 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 10:00 AM

don't discount the possibility of a bad u-joint or other driveline problem.

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan, 23 February 2014 - 10:00 AM.


#6 Suzam

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 10:02 AM


I wont have the car for a few days...

so what could happen when I put the fuse in?

 

With the fuse (any size BTW) installed in the FWD plug under the hood, the FWD light on the dash will come on and the car will only have front wheel drive, the rear will not get any power (unless the duty C is bad in which case TB would be very apparent).

 

and what does each result lead me to?

 

If the noise you describe goes away the problem may be from the rearward part of the drive train. Have you considered a bad Universal joint?

They can bang in a type of rhythm you described. If you can have someone walk along side the car while slowly doing circles you maybe able to localize the noise.

 

 

There were no AT flashes...altho...I did not look to see if the light was functioning....

Is there one of these lights on the 95?

 

Yes there is and it should light with the fuse installed



#7 ivans imports

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 12:23 PM

I never recommend doing 360s in a Subaru on dry pavement this will cause wind up no matter what and can do damage its awd like drive your full size truck with hubs locked in still a 4x4 sharp turns don't do it on dry roads. Check tire press and size



#8 johnceggleston

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 07:13 PM

when you get the car,

put the fuse in and see if the symptoms go away,

and the FWD lights up in red on the dash.

 

if yes, the duty C works and you have mild TB.

 

change the fluid and chances are it will improve.

 

my 95 had mild TB for 90k miles until the trans failed.

i never serviced the auto trans. (dumb a$$)

finally reverse failed.

 

change the fluid.


Edited by johnceggleston, 24 February 2014 - 07:13 PM.


#9 bgambino

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 07:53 AM

okay men.....slapped plates on the car and drove home...30 min drive

That car is sweet...smooth shifting, quiet...you just cannot find the mid 90s legacy 2.2L with low miles...I am excited...my sons 96 has 231,000 and still running strong

 

Anyway....I put the fuse in and.....all symptoms stopped...did 360s just fine

Of course I am a little disappointed...I'd rather have a u-joint issue than torque bind

 

I am not putting it on the road for perhaps 2 months,,,,,but my first things will be tires, alignment and several tranny flushes

will report back at that time

Any additional thoughts will be much appreciated

If none of this fixes it....what is the cure?  (since the AT light is not flashing...it's not the Duty C right?)



#10 mikec03

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 08:48 AM

Since the symptoms went away when you put in the fuse, the duty C solenoid is OK.  The FWD light should also have come on.  But in any case the solenoid is working.

 

You can drain/fill the fluid at least 3 times.  It may reduce or eliminate the TB.  It didn't help with my 95 however.  To fix it, you have to swap the transfer case, maybe from your other car?



#11 johnceggleston

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 08:56 AM

one other thing to check is the tires,

all 4 need to be the same,

brand

size

tread

wear

air pressure

 

mismatched tires can cause binding.

 

in theory you could use different tires but they need to be within 1/4 inch in CIRCUMFERENCE.

but different tires will probably wear differently, so the problem could return with time / miles.


Edited by johnceggleston, 25 February 2014 - 08:57 AM.


#12 Suzam

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 09:12 AM

Have you localized the "ratcheting" sound you mentioned?

 

If the noise went away with the FWD fuse it could be because as you do the 360ยบ turns without the AWD working it can take stress off of the drive shaft and rear u-joints.

 

You could still have a bad U-Joint on the back end of the car.



#13 bgambino

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Posted 26 February 2014 - 01:59 PM

thanks all

Yes the FWD light came on

 

I have not localized the racheting sound...car is parked with no insurance...maybe when weather breaks I will try listening at the cul de sac....any tips on how to diagnose?

Hang out the back door near the ground while someone else does donuts?

 

I will do the flush when the time comes...and tires? well the fronts have some side wear...but center of tread looks fairly comparable to rears

 

side observation---Steering wheel is cocked to almost 1 o'clock....yet the car is steady at 65mph...does not wander...



#14 Bushwick

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Posted 26 February 2014 - 10:45 PM

With the FWD fuse in (or a jumper wire), there should be no power going to the rear tires, so not sure how you can be doing donuts? FWD running in circles won't donut unless you are pulling the e-brake and that's different. Over/under steer will also be very different between FWD and AWD, or at least it is in my wagon. Feels like a completely different car between the 2.



#15 CNY_Dave

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 01:27 PM

thanks all

Yes the FWD light came on

 

I have not localized the racheting sound...car is parked with no insurance...maybe when weather breaks I will try listening at the cul de sac....any tips on how to diagnose?

Hang out the back door near the ground while someone else does donuts?

 

I will do the flush when the time comes...and tires? well the fronts have some side wear...but center of tread looks fairly comparable to rears

 

side observation---Steering wheel is cocked to almost 1 o'clock....yet the car is steady at 65mph...does not wander...

 

What part of NY?

 

I'm here all day, every day, doing the job-search thing and could use a diversion...



#16 ivans imports

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 11:25 AM

Have had good luck using the clutchpack from svx to upgrade the out backs and legacys awd was a stronger pack with better steels and clutchs



#17 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 11:47 AM

^^^ interesting.



#18 CNY_Dave

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 09:36 AM

Have had good luck using the clutchpack from svx to upgrade the out backs and legacys awd was a stronger pack with better steels and clutchs

 

Do you set the stack height (change the shim washers) to match the  SVX specs or the legacy/ob spec, or has it worked out well just swapping and not setting it?



#19 ivans imports

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Posted 04 March 2014 - 10:32 AM

the svx one come up with very little clearance the less the better I use whole svx stack with all the svx steels I set all awd clutch packs as tight as I can get them






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