Subnoob99L Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 (edited) Hey all. Just bought a 99 Legacy L 30th anniversary edition with a bottom end noise. The emission sticker on the bottom side of the hood says 2.2L. The engine block has EJ22 cast on it. It has 6 bolts and 2 studs holding the engine to the transmission. The valve covers have 5 bolts holding them on and the intake ports are much larger than the EJ22 I bought to replace it with, which only has 2 bolts and 2 studs for the transmission. What engine do I have? I was thinking it was the 2.5 SOHC, but it says EJ22 on the block. Wouldn't it say EJ2.5 if it was? Edited March 3, 2014 by Subnoob99L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 The L models came with a 2.2. 99 was the first year of the second generation 2.2 (referred to as a "phase 2") which has different heads and intake than the previous years. Bottom end noise is not a common problem on the 2.2. Make sure its not the timing tensioner flapping around, or the cogged timing idler. Could also have a loose crankshaft pulley bolt. There is also a tendancy of the newer engines to have piston slap, which is totally benign, and goes away once the engine is warmed up. It can make quite a racket when the engine is cold though. If you do need an engine, you will need a 2.2 from a 99 - 01. You do have to option to put the 99 heads on the block you bought. Doesn't take long, and only about $100 for the gaskets you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subnoob99L Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 I'm going to pull the heads of tomorrow and get a better idea of what's going on with it. Found out the damper bolt is broken off inside the crankshaft. I'm thinking the timing belt broke (it has 85,000 miles on it) and the valves hit the pistons. Something went terribly wrong, hopefully the heads aren't damaged so I can swap them over. If the valves are hit, can I use the valves out of the heads that I would be swapping out? Thanks for the help. First time wrenching on a Subaru. When I got this thing, it was partially taken apart. So I'm finding out more and more as I go along. Looks like someone changed the timing belt and hasn't been run since. It has no compression in the front cylinder on the drivers side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 I've heard many phase 2 2.2 motors have piston slap. Some so bad you would swear the motor was not healthy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 Check the oil for gold swirls to make sure it's bottom end noise. If not, definitely check the timing belt tensioner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 Broken crank bolt means someone didnt torque it properly after a timing job. The bolt came loose and the crank pulley tried to wobble its way to freedom. Get the front torn down and see if the guide key for the crank timing sprocket is sheared in half. It could also have reamed out the key channel in the end of the crank. No compression on #2 cylinder is not a good sign. Bottom end should be fine with that mileage. Depending on how bad the end of the crank is chewed up, you might be able to salvage this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subnoob99L Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 Got it torn down. The front of the crankshaft is chewed up. The key is sheared and crank gear has spun on the crankshaft and it won't come off with gentle prying. All of the valves are bent. The intakes more so because they are bigger but they all have marks where they hit the pistons. Turning the bottom end by hand there is no noise. Must if been the pistons hitting the valves. I didn't compression readings in all the cylinders. Once I saw #2 with nothing there was no point in going any further with that. I guess I'll try and get that crank pulley off and see if the crank is salvageable. Would be cheaper to get new valves for these heads or just go the junk yard and get some complete heads for $60 a pair? I can get all the valves for around the same price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 If you feel comfortable lapping the new valves in yourself to ahead and get new valves. Depending on how bad the crank is, a common fix is to weld up the keyway and file/grind down the rough spots so a new key fits. Put a new (used) sprocket and pulley on and tighten the bolt down to about 140 ft lbs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subnoob99L Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 I got the gear off. Is that key way too messed up to reuse the crank? I took the key out of the other engine to see how it fits and it looks pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 (edited) Oh that ones still in good shape. The one on my 95 is like that. The pulley runs a little weird, but that could be because its a junkyard pulley. I've seen pictures of much much worse. File down the rough spots and fit a new key with a little JB weld on that worn side. Let it dry then file it smooth so the new sprocket and pulley will slide over it. While you have it all apart, pull the oil pump off and check the screws that hold the backing plate on the pump. They can get loose and back out. Get a new pump o-ring from the dealer (the little blue one), and a new front seal. Use Anaerobic sealant on the pump flange. RTV makes little pieces that break off and can get stuck in the oil passages to the heads. Edited March 1, 2014 by Fairtax4me 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subnoob99L Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 Don't know if I'm going to be able to get the broken crank bolt out. That would suck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 Ah, yeah. I didn't see the end of the crank in the first pic so I assumed you got it out. Might be able to make a small notch in the end with a chisel. Just enough to get an edge to turn it out with. Otherwise, this would be one of the few scenarios where I would try an e-z-out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subnoob99L Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 Would it be worth it for me to swap cranks with the other engine or just put my heads on the other engine and throw it in? Or is the crank in the Phase 2 engine different than Phase 1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 As far as I know the crank is different. If you can't get the bolt out just put your heads on the other block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Hey all. Just bought a 99 Legacy L 30th anniversary edition with a bottom end noise. The emission sticker on the bottom side of the hood says 2.0L. The engine block has EJ22 cast on it. photo 1.JPG That sticker says 2.2 clearly in the first line. Like this----- *engine code*: (2.2) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subnoob99L Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 That sticker says 2.2 clearly in the first line. Like this----- *engine code*: (2.2) My bad. That was a typo. Fixed it. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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