neelie Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Hi Hoping for some help from knowledgable eyes. I have a Subaru GL 87 1.8 Carb.**I recently replaced the overcharging alternator (bad regulator). After timing belt procedure it decided to quit.Overview of this engine- 1. Here is the biggest problem, rear of motor and of alternator area: This hose (below) is broken the engine shakes a little more after, and when i cover the hole it calms down. I found the possible piece ( top) Not sure where else it was connected to? 2. I also found this guy hanging around, looks like it should be bolted down, but what is this? 3. Plugs behind Alternator not connected, what are they for? 4. disconnected plug Under Hood Driver Side Top, Where does it plug? what is it? the black broken tube (arrow) a problem? 5. On Passender Side Top disconnected and unknown plugs, what are these? Thanks for any help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj421 Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 3. I'm pretty sure those are plugs for the A/C compressor. Looks like you don't have A/C, so that's why. I deleted my A/C, and I have those two plugs. Can't recall if they were plugged into the compressor or not though. 4. That plug looks like one of the CEL checking plugs. You plug it in when you wanna check the check engine light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Cars usually only have a couple wiring harness made for them, regardless of the combination of options it actually had. So extra plugs aren't a bad thing. They could be for A/C, cruise control, and a host of other things. Yep, that larger black connector by the strut tower is the diagnostic connector. It can be used to test a number of systems, but under normal circumstances, unplugged is fine. Looks like that hose by the washer pump is just a drain. Hopefully someone else can help you with those vacuum lines. Carbed EA82s are a nightmare in that department...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 1 and 2 are parts of the Evap system. 1 shows the open port.......2 is the solenoid that should be connected there.....And should be bolted down to the open bolt hole in #1. 3, 4, 5 are unused connectors for A/C and a test connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neelie Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 Thanks, glad to have some idea on it all. 1 and 2 are parts of the Evap system. 1 shows the open port.......2 is the solenoid that should be connected there.....And should be bolted down to the open bolt hole in #1. 3, 4, 5 are unused connectors for A/C and a test connector. since 1 definitely promotes a better running engine when it is plugged, I'd like to connect or plug it, to be sure: #2 attaches via hole by #1, and then connects to 1? or 1 port remains open? There is nothing unhooked from 2 to be able to connect these together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 The solenoid should have 2 ports on it. 3 really....but the 3rd is open to atmosphere(the little capped end) Look in the bent tube in the #1 picture.....I'll bet you find the broken piece of the second port. That solenoid should connect the port on the intake to the Bowl vent valve (UFO lookin thing in the pictures) and the T goes from there into a hardline that connects to the ACVV (UFO thingy on other side of intake not pictured)..... You can bypass the solenoid.....it will just vent the bowl and run the air bleeds at full open all the time....might affect warm up idle/throttle but not much. Or you take the middle line off the "T" and connect that line to the open vac port. Install the check valve between so that it can be sucked through by the intake....Leave the bowl vent valve hose open. It's a simple solenoid.....and can be replaced with one from any number of newer imports......just gotta take a wonder around the pick n pull yards look for one with 3 ports one to atmosphere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweety Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 in 1. the small hose is off the manifold I think. hence you cover it you stop vacuum leak. Think you connect that hose to it and it goes under the carbie base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panxoxesco Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 (edited) PLEASE I NEED NUMBER OF PART THIS....PLEASE VACCUM VALVE....SUBARU 1.8 DL 4WD (1989 LOYALE) THANKS Edited October 22, 2014 by panxoxesco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lastnoel Posted May 10, 2019 Share Posted May 10, 2019 Neelie. Going thru the same hassle myself. Have the Hitachi carb apart and blown away by the complexity and lack of a rebuild kit. I was told before to get a weber and get rid of the Hitachi. Does anyone have a good source for a weber that would fit, an Hitachi rebuilt or a rebuild kit for the carb that is on there? Been on the phone all morning looking. Has someone already danced this dance and found a good solution as these cars get older? Gotten help and good advice from this Forum . . . thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FerGloyale Posted May 10, 2019 Share Posted May 10, 2019 1 hour ago, Lastnoel said: Neelie. Going thru the same hassle myself. Have the Hitachi carb apart and blown away by the complexity and lack of a rebuild kit. I was told before to get a weber and get rid of the Hitachi. Does anyone have a good source for a weber that would fit, an Hitachi rebuilt or a rebuild kit for the carb that is on there? Been on the phone all morning looking. Has someone already danced this dance and found a good solution as these cars get older? Gotten help and good advice from this Forum . . . thank you! just pull the emulsion tubes from the carb, blow them out with air and carb cleaner. (brass screws visible on top of lower assembly, 4 of them. Takes a very small but tough flathead) Put the carb back together. That will solve most of the running problems the Hitachi has. There is a rebuild kit by "walker" brand. They make a kit for EA81 and EA82. hitachi. but it's really only useful if the Accelerator pump is blown out or if the float needle is shot. very rare. Most valuable piece in the kit is just the gasket for the top cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarule Posted May 10, 2019 Share Posted May 10, 2019 Just now, Lastnoel said: Neelie. Going thru the same hassle myself. Have the Hitachi carb apart and blown away by the complexity and lack of a rebuild kit. I was told before to get a weber and get rid of the Hitachi. Does anyone have a good source for a weber that would fit, an Hitachi rebuilt or a rebuild kit for the carb that is on there? Been on the phone all morning looking. Has someone already danced this dance and found a good solution as these cars get older? Gotten help and good advice from this Forum . . . thank you! I bought a rebuilt Hitachi several years ago and it was still crap. Switched to a Weber and never regretted it, or the money spent. Think of a Weber this way: it's a one-time cost and lasts for as long as you want to drive the vehicle. Check with this company for a Weber: http://www.carburetion.com/index.htm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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