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transmission problems after fluid change
Posted 11 April 2014 - 05:35 PM
You guys are great! I was about give up and get rid of it but I will change the duty c. Does anyone have part numbet or know where to get it? The dealer had 7 different solenoids.
I also found this on eBay
Right part? Also you recommend I drop and clean the pan?
To add more detail to the picture.the front of the transmission does leak a little, the binding is worse when taking right turns and it shudders when going into gear. Now do you believe it still worth working on this transmission? Should I look into replacing the torque converter? Or clutch?
Posted 11 April 2014 - 10:56 PM
I would remove the rear half of the driveshaft and run it in FWD and see what that shuddering issue does before dumping any time or money into it.
I've never seen a Duty C issue cause that symptom so I'm suspicious of it fixing it, though i won't rule out the possibility.
Subaru torque converter failure is nearly unheard of, don't replace it without a definitive reason.
do not remove the pan or eplace the "filter" inside the pan - it's a worthless screen that doesn't really clog or "catch" anything, it just keeps large particles from getting sucked up which then come out if you change the fluid. if it's clogged you have a scrap transmission with that amount of problematic debris. i've pulled them off of 200k transmissions and they're spotless clean.
with year, make, model, and VIN the dealer will know which one it is. something isn't right if they said "7 different solenoids, we don't know which one". go to a different dealer or call one and have it mailed (the online subaru dealers are %20 cheaper than local too, subarugenuineparts, et.al.).
you'll likely need the rear extension case gasket, i've never tried to reuse one.
as to fixing it or not - i do not know. we know the Duty C is bad and that should take care of the binding. the shuddering is a shot in the dark at this point.
Posted 14 April 2014 - 08:46 PM
The reason for removing the driveshaft was to eliminate drive to the rear axle, swhich binds up the clutches when the duty c is failed. The FWD fuse supplies voltage tot he duty c 100% to keep the clutches disengaged.when the duty c fails, the clutches remain engaged.
If the FWD fuse is keeping the bind from occurring before removing the driveshaft, then it will not be necessary to have the FWD fuse in place as to not overburden the duty c solenoid.
If the duty c is failed, then this is why you are removing the driveshaft. placing the FWD fuse is not helping anything as you have removed the driveshaft instead. It is best to leave the FWD fuse out if this is the case, so that you do not have live circuit to a failed component.
With the driving around with no driveshaft, you can basically drive like this forever, until basically the clutch basket sheares off (which it likely won't)
Consider any fluid changes after making the repair.
Posted 14 April 2014 - 09:13 PM
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