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03 Forester Auto Tranny Just installed..Control module in limp mode


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nope, something is wrong.  they are bolt in and go items normally, so if it's not right then something is wrong.

 

1.  does the vehicle go into drive and move at all?
2.  any sounds or symptoms?

3.  is the transmission for the exact same year vehicle?

4.  what happened to the original transmission?

5.  any check engine lights?

 

dented pan

AT pump cracked due to improperly seated torque converter on installation, common mistake.

transmission harness isn't fully seated

 

there's a secret handshake for getting that flashing AT light to give you the current code it has.  be nice to try that and see if it tells you what the problem is.

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Pull the codes. 

 

If it's a flashing AT TEMP light, there are codes for the trans. If the Check Engine light is on, more codes.

 

What exactly is it doing, or not? When I installed mine, I eventually discovered that the entire problem was a cracked solenoid located directly above the magnet detent. As said, it's a Zero Tolerance fit, any pressure or flex on the pan cracks the solenoid and it goes into limp mode. If you are getting a code that suggests that the solenoid damping resistor is bad, then don't buy another, just pull the pan off and check the solenoid under the magnet. It's usually the culprit. I installed a good one from the old trans and it fixed the problem. 

 

In limp mode, it won't shift into high gear, and you get horrible mileage running over 3,500 rpms at 50 and above. 

 

Describe your limp mode driving and what codes you pulled, it will become clearer. 

Edited by tirod
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Need wiring diagram 2003 forester automatic tranny..need to move pins
around as tranny we put in must be different from orig one we
replaced..we pulled codes on new tranny and they say open or short
circuit..pressure control solenoid A & B..Shift /timing solenoid..
pressure control solenoid..shift solenoid A & B..Or is this just the
wrong tranny for this car?

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double check the plugs and make sure you have no bent or pushed pins and they are seated all the way.

 

Check the trans sticker on the front of the bell housing to make sure you have the correct trans.

Edited by lmdew
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The problem would be much smaller in scope were it only the Transfer duty solenoid mismatch (referenced in the other thread).

 

I believe the front speed sensor, not the rear, supplies the signal to the speedo and TCU for controlling the shifting, etc.

 

If it shifts it's not in limp mode, I think. Limp mode is what you get when you disconnect the connectors and it goes into 2nd (or 3rd?).

 

Have you tried disconnecting the battery to reset the TCU and going from there? I don't think it would drive as well as you say if those codes were genuine.

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